Why does my rebuilt turbo from Conestoga diesel have a bent/broken housing?

Clb

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Ok so the bb's being out of production now( I've not been to the site after this happened) now they list the remans WITH returns... The listed price of $775.80 should have been out the door with returns!
No additional fees should have been charged.
Snafu????
I Await the outcome.
 

Clb

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I've had a beer, I've calmed down, I can't reach the vendor today, or tomorrow otherwise I would have called them. They are great when I talk to them it's just frustrating being stuck.

Let's assume for a second I'm telling the truth, and you were in my position, you opened up the rebuilt turbo you just installed a few months ago and saw this. Knowing there's nothing you did to cause it. I think you'd all be frustrated too when a vendor is unreachable, which is perfectly acceptable on a weekend, I just had plans to have this thing back on the road tomorrow and not it will be mid week at the earliest.

The aluminum looks pretty thick, would an oring bunched even be able to bend that? It looks like there is a knick right there though like a piece of rust or something got tightened between not an oring.

My boost is 1psi at 60mph cruise, 2psi at 70, 6psi wot. I don't think the oring was cut until I rotated it today. I had never loosened the compressor side. I loosened the 4 bolts in an attempt to clock it on install but that didn't work. Rotating the exhaust was enough to get it all lined up that's in the other thread I posted above when I installed the turo



edit! the Ifail curse struck again....




Those #'s seem off, that sounds like an issue!

If you scrutinized the newley remaned unit prior to install ( 2 scenarios here)
1 It looked perfect, install went flawlessley, boost came up to expected #'s....
Now an issue, you have talking points.

2The install gave you issues as to aligning and tightening componnents...
It would have been prudent to make a call before fireing it up.


As to your ?
I'd be pissed!
Now that said.....

If life got in the way and it got stuffed in overnight to get to work the next day, or had someone do or help with the install, then there is no telling what happened.


Where is the waste gate at , the clocking looked off on the rod.
What did you do to fix that?
Any leaks in the system?
Got a dd beater for work monday? Hope so.
Got pic of the off center ?
 
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Shawn MacAnanny

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I loosened the exhaust housing bolts, 6 I think and rotated it, it lined up fine on the oil pedestal and the hat lined up. I had tried loosening the 4 bolts on the compressor side that I thought were to rotate it but I couldn't get it to rotate. V band clamp turbos aren't uncommon to loosen and line up, I didn't realize this one could be rotated until I posted on the other forum when I installed it. That install Date was on a Saturday too, so no one was reach able to make that call.

What should my boost numbers be? That seemed fine for stock to me. I just put the moose misters and bull moose in today. Actually found I had 6 bb code and 2 Standyne C code which I don't think exists so it must be g code with factory gray paint. Should help it run alot better though I thought it ran fine. I drive 100-200miles a day.


I'm on vacation and I have other vehicles so it's good timing but still not something I wanted to add to my list of things to do. I have a spare 94 turbo truck I just picked up I could always pull the turbo from, but I paid for a rebuilt one with a wicked wheel and I'd like to have that on it.

I didn't realize the turbo being clocked wrong was such a. Big deal I figured someone just got in a hurry and didn't try to make it close assuming the customer would have to clock it anyway.
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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It wasn't my turbo I sent in, I didn't break any studs removing mine, they said they had a core they just had to drill a stud out to rebuild. I removed the one stud because it felt loser than the other 3 and it seemed it was slightly off center. I had to wobble the drill bit in that up pipe to get it lined up. Pics of the orings too, it's really flexible so I don't think it'd show a punch
 

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Clb

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Ats 093 aftermarket wastegate psi was set at 7 1/2 psi
IF I RECALL....Most common theroy is 10 psi safe, 12 pushing the limit without studs, 15 studded.
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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So it could just be my gauge off or leaking turbo hat maybe? I did see 7psi before new turbo went on even with messed up compressor fins. I'm looking for fuel ecconomy not really performance but 10psi would be nice. I picked the bull moose pump since it's tried and true and should be reliable, the misters because I think their high pop pressure and spray pattern will increase ecconomy, and I'm putting an intercooler now because it's recommended and should help with mileage too.

I haven't touched the waste gate as far as adjustment t goes. Couldn't I just use a boost controller with it in place of adjusting the rod?
 

Clb

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The bull is gunna hinder your ability go garner MAX mileage ( do to the yippie factor) the w.g rod, mod is not that hard to do (and its free) boost controlers are not necessary imho.
Verify no kinks of cuts/chaffing on the vacc line to the hat.
The ferrel nut fittings like to leak once ya pull em apart.
That line should be on the vaccume /pull side of intake.
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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I planned on teeing the waste gate line into the line on top of the intake hat for the boost pressure guage since there will be a pressure drop over ic. I'm also going to rtv the intake hat on to make sure that's not leaking
 

homelessduck

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FWIW my 093 with upgraded hot side and dp will easily hit 10 lbs.

Also - Mel and Suzie are great people . If it was shipped that way it was not intentional.
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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FWIW my 093 with upgraded hot side and dp will easily hit 10 lbs.

Also - Mel and Suzie are great people . If it was shipped that way it was not intentional.


Mel and Suzie have been great everytime i called, they even extended the core return time for my injection pump and injectors because i ended up getting sick and didnt get them in when i had planned.

I have the banks down pipe, i emailed IDI performance to see how quickly i can get the upgraded housing since i am going to have to pull this turbo anyway, now would be a good time to put that on with the full 3" down pipe.
 

typ4

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Where can i even get the correct o-ring for this housing?

I have 100 of them.

That oring wont pinch enough to break the housing, I know this for a fact.lol
That really looks like shipping damage but its hard to tell for sure, I guarantee they would not ship it like that.
As far as clocking, I get all mine close and let the customer know it is close and will need to be final aligned and bolts snugged up after final install.
It is very difficult to get it right every time.
 
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Agnem

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OK, so obviously we are talking to Shawn and taking care of things now that Monday is here, but since this is here I feel I need to state a few things. First off, it is always a good idea to talk to the responsible party before spilling things onto the internet. I appreciate and apologize for your frustration. I see two people here have commented that they have paid for return line kits. This is a common misconception, and people do not look at their invoices carefully. We do list the return line kit as a line item and we do show the retail price for it in the cost column, however if you look ALL the way over to the right where the line items are totaled up, you will see the space is void for that line item. If you don't believe me, just add up the cost of all the things you think you were supposed to pay for, and not the return line kit, and you will see that the total matches what you paid. It is frustrating to you I know, to think one thing and find out later that things were not as they seemed, but it is also very frustrating to any vendor to be accused of something that isn't true. With regard to what happened with your turbo, obviously we can take care of this issue any way you see fit. The O-ring tore because the lubricant was gone. Normally, any housing clocking that needs to be done should be done before the turbo is run. In a case like this, the housing should have been removed, and the o-ring re-lubed. The crack in the backing plate does not affect operation, and should not give you any trouble, but obviously we want you to be happy. The rest will be dealt with by phone. Thanks to everyone for keeping this conversation on an even keel.
 

Clb

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The 2 inner thoughts I had were...
1shipping damage(even if you had shipped a turbo in a refrigerator box the drivers/loaders could kill it) I see it all the time.
2 the line item senario ( my contracts used this format) had the same issue's.

Op you now have the attention of BOTH of our guru's best of luck , enjoy the new truck.
 

reset2

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I am impressed with Mel's knowledge and workmanship. After attending several IDI Weekends and talking to him on the phone a person or customer will never have a concern with him or his shop.
 

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