Project Little Foot

onetonjohn

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Thanks for the details and the links. I ordered showerhead and new float. I'll see how the old one "dries" out. So far it's still full of diesel with no sign of draining. It's OK cause I won't have time to work on it again till next weekend.
 
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BlindAmbition

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Is it a brass one? Maybe pop/drill a small hole and then solder it after it drains
 

onetonjohn

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That's along the lines of what I was thinking. Gonna go with that. Need to find how the fuel go in though or it will happen again (albeit slowly based on the drain rate).
 

onetonjohn

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OK. Got some time to work on my truck after work today. Added new showerheads and floats to the tank. Fuel gauge still doesn't work, but I think I'm getting fuel to the fuel filter now (more on this later). When I put the key in run, none of the dash lights come on. Wondering if that has anything do do with fuel gauge not working. Hopefully I can look into that more this weekend. The main thing I'm worried about is what appears to be pretty massive fuel leak on the first three injectors on the left (passenger) side rail. Fuel lines on the right are cracked, but bone dry. Left side has fuel sitting on intake (see pictures). I think the fuel is coming out the bypass, going to the left cause there is a return path (right side dead ends at first injector) but return nipple hole is very small so it can't all return there and leaks from return line orings. I've attached some pictures (one big picture so you can see line routing, and a close up so you can see the leak). It's a newly remanufactured injection from a Statadyine authorized and reputable diesel shop in west sac (Diamond Diesel). I actually think they are rebuilt in Oakland and shipped back to west Sac. Anyhow I digressed. Here's some pictures (following to get more detail).
 

onetonjohn

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Here's top view. BTW, I have power at the two tabs on the injection pump when key is on in case you are going to ask.
 

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onetonjohn

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Here's the close up. If you look closely, you can see the leaking.
 

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onetonjohn

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One thing. Not sure if it's normal but ther is no return to tank like on my 86. Looks like there is a plugged off fitting. See picture at the back the tee is plugged. I think it can be a 4 way. This is the way it was routed on the newer doner truck (89?).
 

Jesus Freak

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If you haven't already, you basically have to replace all the o rings and return lines or they're going to leak. It's inevitable, if the rubber sat for any serious length of time like yours has they leak. Your engine looks clean though.
 

Jesus Freak

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One thing. Not sure if it's normal but ther is no return to tank like on my 86. Looks like there is a plugged off fitting. See picture at the back the tee is plugged. I think it can be a 4 way. This is the way it was routed on the newer doner truck (89?).
That might be okay, but both of my trucks return to the tank. It looks like it's plugged. And your accelerator cable is disconnected too.
 

onetonjohn

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Haven't hooked up accelerator yet or the cold start selinoid. I did get Vinton 111 o rings. Hope they are correct as I did not get them from a kit. Thinking of just running some small fuel line and running it back to the tank. Is that size fuel line available?

I wondering now if I get that leak cleared up the injectors will prime up guick. Like maybe I'm close.

As a side note my glow plug conversion did not work as I wired it (old 86 to newer wiring hrness and controller conversion). More on that. I have power but glow plugs don't turn on. So sad. I suppose that better than turning on and not turning off.
 

IDIBRONCO

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One thing. Not sure if it's normal but ther is no return to tank like on my 86. Looks like there is a plugged off fitting
This is probably the answer to multiple issues here.
See picture at the back the tee is plugged. I think it can be a 4 way. This is the way it was routed on the newer doner truck (89?)
I don't know why it's plugged, but it there has to be a return in the system.
That might be okay,
It's not.
Thinking of just running some small fuel line and running it back to the tank. Is that size fuel line available?
What size of fuel line are you talking about? It's all available somewhere. The factory return line size is 5/16".
I wondering now if I get that leak cleared up the injectors will prime up guick.
They should, but you'll still need to replace the injector o rings.
The reason why I said all of this is because the fuel system was designed to have a return to the fuel tank(s). Without that, there's no place for the extra fuel to go to. This causes pressure to build up inside the return system and then the IP won't pump any fuel (don't ask me on that one. Wes described it one time, but it's way over my head). The extra cranking of the starter, to try to start the engine, kept pushing fuel into your return system. Since it had no where to go, the pressure kept building inside the system, long after the IP quit pumping, until the fuel found the weakest point, your o rings. It's only a guess, but my guess is that the passenger's side built up more pressure, quicker because the lift pump is on that side. That is what made the passenger's side o rings leak first. Once they started leaking, the excess pressure (fuel) had somewhere to go. Along this note, I don't think that your injector lines on the driver's side can actually be cracked and not leak. They would at least be damp if they were cracked. I wouldn't try to use any smaller fuel line than 5/16". That's what the engineers designed it to be and I'm sure that there's a good reason. No matter what I've heard Cummins guys claim, there was a lot of research that was done before releasing these engines to the market just like the Cummins had. I'd stick with the factory sized return line. I would also remove the plug from that 4 way, put some type of connection there for fuel line (I'd used barbed like the factory did), and then hook back up to your truck's return line. That would be the easiest way to do all of that. Once the return system returns to the tank again and the o rings have been replaced, your engine should be running. Assuming that everything else is correct.
 

onetonjohn

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Pulled the dash. Thought all the bulbs would be burnt out.... but they are not. Guess I need to do more testing... Did I mention that I'm never tearing another truck down like this. Gonna fix a bit at a time and keep it running. To much all at once. It's overwhelming.
 

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onetonjohn

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Thanks for the input on the return lines. I've added a T and run 5/16 back to the tank. I think that will improve things. I found the glow plug controller was wired OK from the wiring harness perspective, but the donor controller had the ground broken off at the controller and had no ground. I believe that is the root of my glow plug controller issue. Going to replace and retest. For the senders in the tank, both are open between terminals. I believe this mean the reostat is bad and they need to be replaced. Someone posted a link to gas tank depot. Going to check there for 86 diesel. Search of the forum suggested these are hard to find, and the 86 and down are opposite (from resistance perspective) of the 87 and up - so I need to make sure I get the right one. Another thing I got form the forum is to check the ground (tank to frame?). Should the tanks be grounded? When I removed the tank they had a cloth strip, presumably to prevent wear. I replaced this with some foam I had, but now I don't have tank grounded to frame. Should it be?
 
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