1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Project Little Foot

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by onetonjohn, Jul 8, 2019.

  1. onetonjohn

    onetonjohn Full Access Member

    Posts:
    72
    Likes Received:
    23
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2018
    Location:
    California
    Original truck is a 1986 F350 (6.9 non-turbo) 4x4 with 4sp manual trans.
    White_F350.jpg
    I asked earlier about project scope and schedule in this thread:
    "Time and budget estimate for project"
    It's pretty clear I"m running behind schedule, but based on your feedback, it seems like my goals are doable.
    I wanted to start a thread to document my progress, and get input from you guys that have been here before.
    This is my first "project" truck. I've done a lot of targeted repairs, but never a large scale project like this.
    Here are the project goals:
    Reliable and mechanically sound enough to be daily driver.
    MPG target of 17MPG.
    Rust abatement throughout the truck so it lasts another 30 years.
    Able to pull 10K trailer up hill at 50MPH.
    Able to accelerate to highway speeds on the on ramp.
    Solid and last for years.
    Drive well, and interior clean and comfortable.
    Here's some of the things that I know (or I think I know) I want to do.
    ZF5 Swap.
    BW4407 T-Case swap
    Get drive line to work with new T-case/trans.
    Fix grill and bumper damage - go with original grill.
    rebuild injection pump.
    Super duty power brake booster upgrade
    Headlight upgrade
    upgrade glow plug controller
    paint frame?
    Add turbo.
    1" body lift.
    New tires (maybe rims)
    New shocks.
    Get working tailgate
    Clean up interior.
    Get good temp and pyro gauges.
    Check axles.

    Progress.
    When I started, the truck was very hard to start. There was a knock when in 4wd that was not present in 2wd. I pulled the engine to check the broken off glow plugs before root causing the noise in 4wd (bad-I know). I'm not sure if it's the T-case,or the front axle. Hind sight is 20/20, and I wish I would have figured out where the noise was coming from before starting. I was just going to pull the engine and put it back in, but once it was out, it seemed like doing trany swap while engin was out would be easier, and I could clean/paint the frame, and ... - so it begins.

    At this point, I've pulled the front clip and the engine. The heads were sent to machine shop and got valve job with the turbo valves. Clearances were OK. I added the ARP head studs. I've replaced the old glow plugs and injectors with new ones. I also resealed oil pan, and front and rear seals. I replaced the injection timing gear cover, as the ond one was cracked and leaking. I just removed the bed and the cab to gain access to the drive train and frame.

    20190708_105550.jpg 20190708_090958.jpg 20190708_091034.jpg 20190708_091051.jpg

    My plan is to remove trans and T-case. Then maybe clean/fix/prep the frame and any suspension parts. From there, install the engine and then get the frame in the shop so I can work inside to add new trans and T-case. I want to get the frame stuff done and inside before it starts raining. I'm a little fuzzy on what I need to do to get a clean solid build, and what is a rathole waste of time that I should avoid. The thought crossed my mind as I looked at the state of my truck that it may never run again. Hopefully this is just fear creeping in, but it does seem a little daunting. I'm hoping you guys can help keep me on track and help me when I get stuck.


    Some questions.
    What you advise is "must do" vs. "nice to do" or "don't even bother"?
    How important is paining the frame? Do I need to remove axles, suspension, brake/fuel lines, gas tanks, etc?
    Any input would be appreciated. As I stated above, this is my first large scale project so I'm not really sure what I'm doing.
     
    Jason1377 likes this.
  2. Therkhan7_3Turbo

    Therkhan7_3Turbo Registered User

    Posts:
    43
    Likes Received:
    17
    Joined:
    May 10, 2019
    Location:
    FL
    Painting the frame isn't a bad idea, just degrease it good, pressure wash a couple times and just get a cheap spray paint gun and some basic single stage black or something and spray it. I wouldn't concern myself with making it super good but it'll somewhat help the prevention of rust.

    The body, I'd strip the bottom and por15 it or some sort of good rubberized coating, same with the floors Inside.

    Do you plan on sound deadening the cab? If you want to get a more modern feel and sound I'd recommend getting some dynamat or something similar to line the inside firewall, doors and floor with to just make the cab nice and quiet.

    Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
     
  3. onetonjohn

    onetonjohn Full Access Member

    Posts:
    72
    Likes Received:
    23
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2018
    Location:
    California
    I didn't get as much feedback as I hoped for on my original post - probably because my questions were buried after lots of text and images. Anyhow, I've decided to remove everything from the frame and have it sandblasted and then paint with zero rust (paint store recommendation). I'm going to pull the fuel tanks, axles, wiring harness, brake & fuel lines, exhaust and trans/t-case. The sand blaster will come to me and do frame and running gear for $500. I've heard quotes online for less, but this way I don't need to rent a trailer and drive 50 miles and it's done so I can spend my time on other things. I noticed the rear axle is leaking so I'll have to do something with that.

    I looked over the frame, and it didn't look like that much work to remove everything. I'm thinking get it apart, painted, and put back together ASAP, but I don't want to miss anything that I should do while I've got everything open. I'm thinking I should probably check and reseal front and rear axles while they are out. I've got a Dana 60 in the front, and a Sterling 10.25 full float (I think) in the rear. How big of a job is this if they are on a stand? I've heard there is a better (new design) yoke for my rear axle. Should I swap it while I'm in there? I'm also thinking check the float and the pickup in the gas tank. The fuel and brake lines appear to be in good shape, but hey are 30 years old. Anything else I should do while I'm here? Other comment or opinions on my plan? This is my first project truck, so feedback is appreciated.
     
  4. Kizer

    Kizer Supporting Member Supporting Member

    Posts:
    404
    Likes Received:
    30
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2007
    Location:
    Denton, Texas
    Pulling the tanks now would be a great idea. Inspect the pick-up heads, or "shower heads" , check function / condition of senders, clean tanks out ...
     
    86ford69jw likes this.
  5. The_Josh_Bear

    The_Josh_Bear Full Access Member

    Posts:
    649
    Likes Received:
    322
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2016
    Location:
    Western WA
    Being in Western WA I don't worry about frame rust too much, have no experience there.

    But while you have the axles out definitely check the u joints in the front. If you want to reseal have a blast but if it's not leaking I wouldn't worry about it. It is much easier on a stand.
    As for the yoke its only like 2 inches longer and doesn't require much at all to do, very easy later on or now so that's your call and not a priority. Besides unless you're dropping a lot of power on it or wheeling the short yoke is fine. Just keep it torqued, they like to wiggle free from time to time. Happened to me once and I tightened it back up 6 years ago with no issue since.

    +1 on the tanks. Anything you want to do with them is 100 times easier now than it will be later.
     
    86ford69jw likes this.
  6. RDieselKid84

    RDieselKid84 Full Access Member

    Posts:
    94
    Likes Received:
    38
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2018
    Location:
    Mississippi
    On your fuel tanks, if they are rusty or you have to clean out and seal you might be better off to replace with new ones. If you go with new ones get 'Spector' out of Canada,made with US steel. That's what I did, the front tank was full of alge and it was cheaper to replace than clean after ten years of no use.
     
  7. JAKRANCH

    JAKRANCH Full Access Member

    Posts:
    72
    Likes Received:
    38
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2017
    Location:
    Benson, Utah
    X2 on sound deadening, makes a huge difference
     
  8. onetonjohn

    onetonjohn Full Access Member

    Posts:
    72
    Likes Received:
    23
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2018
    Location:
    California
    I'll pull the tanks and senders this weekend and inspect them. I'll have to look into how to sound deaden the cab. I'm not sure how to do this, but I agree a nice quiet cab will make the ride a lot nicer. Thanks for all your input.
     
  9. Kizer

    Kizer Supporting Member Supporting Member

    Posts:
    404
    Likes Received:
    30
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2007
    Location:
    Denton, Texas
    riphip likes this.
  10. riphip

    riphip Supporting Member Supporting Member

    Posts:
    522
    Likes Received:
    108
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2005
    Location:
    Memphis, TN.
    Good time also to replace that original muffler, etc. Walker has a full flow that does not have the chambered sound deadening but still sounds decent. That one is probably loaded with soot as mine was. Can go from original to 3" easily with the bed off.
     
  11. onetonjohn

    onetonjohn Full Access Member

    Posts:
    72
    Likes Received:
    23
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2018
    Location:
    California
    Here's an update and a question. I got the transmission, fuel tanks, fuel lines, and wiring harness off the frame. Still need to get the break system, power steering, and axles. One thing I noticed is that there are a lot of plastic fasteners for fuel lines and wiring harness. I've included an image below of what I"m talking about. Is there a source of new fasteners? I don't want to have to worry about damaging them during sandblasting, or while I'm trying to remove them.


    20190716_194323.jpg 20190716_194330.jpg
     
  12. onetonjohn

    onetonjohn Full Access Member

    Posts:
    72
    Likes Received:
    23
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2018
    Location:
    California
    Update and more questions. I got everything off the frame. I'm still looking for a new source of the fasteners above, but now I'm looking for feedback on how far to strip the axles before sandblasting. There is a fair bit of rust and I was thinking of breaking them apart so the sandblaster can get between the leafs. How much work is it to disassemble leafs and get them back together after they have been taken apart? I'm thinking I should remove drums/rotor and expose the backing plate? This seem about right? I've got another project to get out of the way then I'm calling the sandblaster after I prep the axles.
     
  13. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

    Posts:
    3,291
    Likes Received:
    1,772
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Location:
    edmond, ks
    I'm not sure about new fasteners, but if you can find someone who does media blasting (walnut shell, glass bead, etc.) instead of sand blasting, you could most likely save those fasteners.
     
  14. onetonjohn

    onetonjohn Full Access Member

    Posts:
    72
    Likes Received:
    23
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2018
    Location:
    California
    Thinking about how this is going to go together. I ended up just tapping the fasteners out. The keepers are a little damaged, but I think they will hold when re-installed.


    I have a couple more questions:
    Is there a 1" body lift kit for our trucks. I don't see anything from energy suspension.

    I was planning to do a zf5 swap. I pulled a couple zf5s (1 with bad case and good gears, the other good case, but unknown gears). It appears that there are two different cross members. I have a two peice one that wraps around one side of the frame, and a three peice one that may be for later model frames. I heard you want to use a cross member from the zf5 donor truck, so I got them both. Anyone know the difference, and which one I should use? The cross member for the four speed that came out of my truck was like the 2 piece one shown only shaped slightly different.

    20190718_182037.jpg

    I also don't know what this stabilizer on the front axle is called. The rubber is shot and it's not clear to me if it's included in the energy suspension complete bushing kit. Anyone one know what this is called, and if it's included in energy suspension complete bushing kit?

    20190718_190553.jpg


    Finally, I broke the two mounting bolts off this thing trying to remove this. I think it distributes pressure evenly between rear brakes. Is this correct? What do you call this? Anyone have one in case I can't get the bolts out?

    20190718_190524.jpg


    Overall, I think progress is pretty good lately. I'm finally thinking about fixing things and getting this back together - and this is way better than worrying about how it's gonna come apart.


    I've still got to get the axles apart and maybe the leaf springs to prepare for sand blasting and paint. I'll clean and inspect break and fuel lines. What do I look for in the fuel lines? Just wear from abrasion on the actual line? Is there a rubber O-ring in the quick connector? Are these serviceable? Gonna wait to do the fuel tank senders until I've got paint on the chassis. I don't want to have too many things going on at once.
     
  15. chillman88

    chillman88 Supporting Member Supporting Member

    Posts:
    2,512
    Likes Received:
    1,505
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2017
    Location:
    Central NY
    My crossmember is actually stamped C6/AOD/ZF5 or something like that, I wouldn't worry too much about which one you use as long as it fits right. I'd personally try the one that came on your truck first and swap it out if you need to.

    The thing with the rubber is called either a track bar or panhard bar depending on who you talk to.

    That thing for the brakes, I can't quite tell from the picture but if that's the variable load valve like I assume it is throw it as far as you can, then go get it and throw it farther. They were a good idea but cause more trouble than they're worth. They leak over time. If that's what it is, they're designed to reduce braking force when you are empty and increase it with weight in the bed. It's basically a constantly variable proportioning valve.
     

Share This Page