parallel turbos

[Booyah45828]

NIcopp would likely be fine here. It doesn't work harden and get brittle like copper does. IDK if I'd use compression fittings with it though. Flare type fitting are cheap enough and you can rent the flare tools from most parts stores. We use nicopp a lot making brake lines in the shop, so my opinion is based on experience with that. Those compression fittings might work just fine with oil, they're just a huge no-no with brakes.

Using hose/line clamps is a good idea, as well as putting a loop in the line before it goes into the fitting.

 

[hacked89]

Sir, put down the welder before someone gets hurt.

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should have been riveted

 

[ISPKI]

I second flare fittings. Compression will probably do fine considering its extremely low pressure oil. However, I have used compression fittings to repair broken transmission cooling lines and it works fine, right up until you have to take it off. The compression fitting ring has a high likelyhood in permanently damaging the nicopp line, such that you will struggle getting it off the line. Double flare on the other hand is a more reliable seal and can be removed and reattached many times without replacing it.

 

[1mouse3]

I second flare fittings. Compression will probably do fine considering its extremely low pressure oil. However, I have used compression fittings to repair broken transmission cooling lines and it works fine, right up until you have to take it off. The compression fitting ring has a high likelyhood in permanently damaging the nicopp line, such that you will struggle getting it off the line. Double flare on the other hand is a more reliable seal and can be removed and reattached many times without replacing it.

Flare fitting are nice and all, that is if you make one that is straight. Those horse shoe type ones always gave me a cattywampus flair that weaps and my good one walk away a long time ago. Saw someone playing with a hydrauilic one that seemed intriguing, but is not on a priority list of things to get. I dont care if this compresion fitting is reusable, would just want it to work for one use. If will work out, can get hose to cover this length on after this is all assembled. Yea there is the know issue of temporary things being permanent if they work.

 

[1mouse3]

I though about it and checked how the longe 3ft line would fit the driver side turbo,,,

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It can be routed to fit in the rear port, the passenger turbo would need a 4ft line to fit the center port.

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Also found what box had the fittings.

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And checked who I got these lines from for current cost. They dont want much per a foot, where the local hydraulic shop dose. Will see if will fit in budget, when everthing else is in place.

Treadstone Performance Inc., Turbo Kits, Intercoolers, Turbo Manifolds, Silicone Hose

Treadstone Performance

www.treadstoneperformance.com

 

[1mouse3]

I will have the exhaust ran on the outside of the frame, so where the batterys are will be a issue.

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So they are pull, along with the tray.

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Now they need to get a new home...

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This is my thought of new home, dont think can have it this far foward. Im unsure if the transfercase will stay put, so think needs to be just past. That would mean the tray would need to sit a little lower than this.

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I also pulled the heat shilds off the bottom of the cab.

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[1mouse3]

I got a bar to fix the failed end supports and nibbled passage for it.

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Then I mocked it back up...

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It is just past the transfercase at this point, it could go foward a inch or two and still give room for the batterys.

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The fillters will have to move, so can get better placement of the tray.

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[ISPKI]

This tray is for the batteries? I may have missed it but is that to make more room under the hood for turbo piping?

 

[1mouse3]

This tray is for the batteries? I may have missed it but is that to make more room under the hood for turbo piping?

Yes, its to make room under the hood and it puts them in a place thats easyer to service for me.

 

[ISPKI]

Good idea, are those filters for oil or fuel?

I have been sitting on a complete banks sidewinder install for a while and have been trying to figure out where to plumb the intake piping. I had been thinking about a cowl induction since there isnt a whole lot of space to draw cold air from under the hood. Maybe relocating the batteries would be a better way to go though. That is alot of large cable though.

 

[1mouse3]

Good idea, are those filters for oil or fuel?

I have been sitting on a complete banks sidewinder install for a while and have been trying to figure out where to plumb the intake piping. I had been thinking about a cowl induction since there isnt a whole lot of space to draw cold air from under the hood. Maybe relocating the batteries would be a better way to go though. That is alot of large cable though.

Those filters are for fuel and this is how I had the batteys setup. The positive lead splits at a jump post I got off a chevy, black gose to the starter and blue to the starter relay to feed the main loom.
Ground off the batterys gose to the frame and cab, then frame to engine.

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This let me put the the coolant overflow and a power steering reservoir, inplace of the batterys. This leaves me room for a air fliter box on both sides, to feed the air to the turbos. This power steering reservoir is heavy and has given issues since did not come with a bracket, the hose clamps dont last too long. Probably going to get a smaller one and add in a cooler at some point.

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[1mouse3]

I removed the filter and lines, so there all out the way and not leaking fuel all over the place.

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Then I, gone and hid the hoses so wasps can clog them up.

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With room to plot the trays placement, I strated by repurposing three of the old holes in the frame...

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Then supper sized a hole...

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And then made new holes for the rear two, at this point I chose to repurpose another hole...

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So now have the tray in its new home.

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This the clearence around the front battery, with this placement.

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[1mouse3]

The 6.9 got robbed of its IP, since I know it works good...

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The 7.3 IP gets relieved of its burden of holding on to lines...

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Then at a state I can butten down the fuel system, but need to find my bag of new o-rings and need to repop test the injecters before can.

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[Austin86250]

What’s up with the electrical plug on the intake?

 

[1mouse3]

What’s up with the electrical plug on the intake?

Witch plug on the intake? There is two on the horn and the grid heater it sits on. The two on the horn, are for map and intake temp for my display panel. Intake temp, will be more for other thoughs on automating the grid heater

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I have the grid heater as a substitute for glow plugs. I am deleting them to drop compression and also may be getting injector nozzles that wont play nice with them. I cant find the pic of them welded up, but here is them hollowed up. Need to get a tap, so can clean the threads.

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