parallel turbos

[1mouse3]

I cant find the o-rings, shipping from mc-master is too much just for them. So I grabed the injectors from the 6.9, since has 2 year old o-rings...

You must be registered for see images

They are in bad shape and non are over 1000 psi...

You must be registered for see images

The ones I spec out are still at 1800-1900 psi, except one thats at 1500 psi...

You must be registered for see images

I still dont know how you are suppost to keep all this clean...

You must be registered for see images

The general tech B code injectors had around 10 shims a peice...

You must be registered for see images

And the springs where shorter, along with the nozzle caps being a different thread...

You must be registered for see images

I dont have time to play with 100 shims, so through the lucas BB code injector back together and fixed the one at 1500 psi...

You must be registered for see images

So the injection system is buttoned up and dont care if the return cap leak, will deal with it if it drives me up a wall...

You must be registered for see images

Also could not find a tap local too clean the glow plug cap threads, so ran a nut on them to sort them out.

You must be registered for see images

 

[Nero]

You keep it clean by getting a bigger bench

 

[1mouse3]

You keep it clean by getting a bigger bench

But the bigger bench is nothing but embeded metal splinters by this point, that cart being stainless dose not attract them.

 

[Nero]

Also, big benches become catch all's... Ask me how I know.

 

[XOLATEM]

You keep it clean by getting a bigger bench

A workbench originally built for transmission work has a back slant, wall sides, and a catch trough that leads to a drain to keep things on the bench and not dropping at your feet...they came in 4-6-8-ft lengths.

 

[XOLATEM]

that cart being stainless dose not attract them.

Good point...you can also make any sandwich or burger you want on them...easy to clean.

 

[1mouse3]

Has anyone lately called you nuts? Cause I think you're nuts.

Is this about right hight for a pirus window?

You must be registered for see images

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[ISPKI]

You know looking at your picture makes me wonder how clean it would be to tuck the exhaust tip up into the side of the bed and have it exit through a cutout in the bedside. Considering how many pickup beds are rotted out in that area, it might be a slick look to restore one with a port for the tip. Although, thinking about it I wonder if the movement of the bed vs the frame would cause issues. Probably would need to hold the tip tight to the bed with a bracket and have a section of flex pipe to the inside of it...

 

[1mouse3]

You know looking at your picture makes me wonder how clean it would be to tuck the exhaust tip up into the side of the bed and have it exit through a cutout in the bedside. Considering how many pickup beds are rotted out in that area, it might be a slick look to restore one with a port for the tip. Although, thinking about it I wonder if the movement of the bed vs the frame would cause issues. Probably would need to hold the tip tight to the bed with a bracket and have a section of flex pipe to the inside of it...

Interesting thought and not sure on the flex Im looking at. This is about all I can find for a vid showing flex, no good tril ridding ones. Even at that, it is a reg cab and springs are no where as stiff as mine.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[ISPKI]

I dont think the suspension would be the issue since you seem to have your exhaust pipe securely mounted to the frame. Greater concern would be unloaded vs max load in the bed and how the bed warps separate form the frame. Might get some rattling and bouncing around in the fitup. Could be solved by either making the opening in the bed large enough to give the tip enough room to move around without touching, or securing the tip in the bed and incorporating enough flex in the end of the pipe to compensate for the small movements. That could be done with a flex pipe or all rubber flex mounts down the pipe which it seems like you already have in place.

I just think alot about ground clearance concerns with my trucks because I take them into logging trails frequently and that terrain is extremely unpredictable. Branches and debris kick up out of nowhere and risk catching fuel lines, electrical harnesses, brake lines, etc. I try and keep everything tucked up above the bottom of the frame as best as I can so that I have room to mount skid plates and/or just to avoid anything snagging on the muffler and hangars and u bolts. None of this is likely a concern if you arent taking the truck off road into rough country though.

 

[1mouse3]

I dont think the suspension would be the issue since you seem to have your exhaust pipe securely mounted to the frame. Greater concern would be unloaded vs max load in the bed and how the bed warps separate form the frame. Might get some rattling and bouncing around in the fitup. Could be solved by either making the opening in the bed large enough to give the tip enough room to move around without touching, or securing the tip in the bed and incorporating enough flex in the end of the pipe to compensate for the small movements. That could be done with a flex pipe or all rubber flex mounts down the pipe which it seems like you already have in place.

I just think alot about ground clearance concerns with my trucks because I take them into logging trails frequently and that terrain is extremely unpredictable. Branches and debris kick up out of nowhere and risk catching fuel lines, electrical harnesses, brake lines, etc. I try and keep everything tucked up above the bottom of the frame as best as I can so that I have room to mount skid plates and/or just to avoid anything snagging on the muffler and hangars and u bolts. None of this is likely a concern if you arent taking the truck off road into rough country though.

Fair point. My though would be instead of a hole, would be cut a extended half circle in the bottom flat of the bed. Then add some metal a few inches inward, so looks like it belongs there. This should let me raise the tip up a fair bit and have it at or above the frame level. The ideal of rock sliders have crossed my mind, with a added hoop for a step. My house I got that Im fixing up, so can get back to a small town. I chose it cuase there is a lot of creaks near by, and the atmosphere is soothing and dont feel rushed. When I get the house in order, will spend some time around these creaks looking for places that I can lay a trot line for catfish. I hate fishing in a river and have to cast a line 100 times for one tiny fish. So dont know whats in store for me on this quest but there is woods I might have to get through.

 

[1mouse3]

@ISPKI, this is my hypothesis on tip placement...

You must be registered for see images

This is the cut out I came up with and will clean it up some...

You must be registered for see images

It is inline with where the rest of the exhaust will be and think is out enough that it wont soot up the bed side badly.

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

 

[ISPKI]

Nice. This is where mine is at with the Godzilla system. Muffler is hard fixed to the bed with a 2' length of flex in front of it. This muffler is chunky, about 40" long, 18" tall (oval), and 12" wide with offset in and out with the in on the bottom, out on the top as pictured. This puts it about as close to the top of my frame as I can get. Planning to mate a round to oval adapter into an oval 90 to slip over the frame, then into a downturn conversion back to round, and turn angular or straight out or something I havent really figured out how to terminate it.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[1mouse3]

If you want to make that muffler work, you can get this and have two smaller pipes too send out both sides.

Universal Custom 2.5" Dual 3" Single Aluminized Steel Exhaust Stamped Y-Pipe | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Universal Custom 2.5" Dual 3" Single Aluminized Steel Exhaust Stamped Y-Pipe at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I know the inlet is small but that was all I can find. This is what I can find to make it right size, stamp the 4in side into a oval that can be welded to the 3in side of that y.

Exhaust Reducer, 4 Inch I.D. to 3-1/2 Inch O.D.

Mild steel exhaust reducer to repair or build your own. 4-1/2” overall length Swedge for the reduction occurs midway at 2-1/4”

www.speedwaymotors.com