parallel turbos

KansasIDI

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Witch plug on the intake? There is two on the horn and the grid heater it sits on. The two on the horn, are for map and intake temp for my display panel. Intake temp, will be more for other thoughs on automating the grid heater

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I have the grid heater as a substitute for glow plugs. I am deleting them to drop compression and also may be getting injector nozzles that wont play nice with them. I cant find the pic of them welded up, but here is them hollowed up. Need to get a tap, so can clean the threads.

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What grid heater did you buy? I am about ready to punch somebody after fighting glowplugs…
 

1mouse3

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What grid heater did you buy? I am about ready to punch somebody after fighting glowplugs…

I got one for a 12v cummins, a isb cummins is the same part. I made it work using a carb hat, this is the post that I mentioned it.


This post it is assembled and the air horn Im using is 3924990.


If I had a mill, a more compact package could be made with a thick plate over using the carb hat.
 

1mouse3

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I spent some time today hypostatizing how to mount the rowdy glass packs...


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It took some time to come up with this, and not sure I like it. Will think on it and see if can come up with a better bracket. I dont want the exhaust attached to the cab and having it under, could snag on stuff and be a eye sore.

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A bracket back here will not be a issue since have room, to make something work.

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ISPKI

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Interesting having your exhaust outside the frame. I have always routed it inside the frame and then wrap it either over or under the frame to exit. How are you planning on making the transition from engine to outside the frame up front?

I have a complete exhaust system off a newer F350 with the 7.3 Godzilla motor. Huge, huge multi chamber muffler. really good quality hangars already welded into it. I have it running inside the frame of my superduty but havent made the exit transition yet. My plan is to do a complex slope/bend/curve with an oval transition in the center to sneak between the bed and the frame. I have an 6" OD pipe segment that I am planning on pancaking into an oval (oversized since I will be losing cross sectional area once oval) that will accomplish the transition but I am struggling to figure out how to snake it through the frame opening.

My other idea, if that doesnt work is to weld together a row of small collectors in series. Say, 5x 2" OD pipe 90 degree bends mated into the muffler output. Trouble is, I dont know how I want to angle them for the exit.
 

1mouse3

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Interesting having your exhaust outside the frame. I have always routed it inside the frame and then wrap it either over or under the frame to exit. How are you planning on making the transition from engine to outside the frame up front?


I will figure that out when the engine is in the bay. I have a pile of 45* and 90* bits to play with, going to try getting them out the wheel well. This is what Im thinking for the driver side so far, it will be a challenge getting it over the steering shaft. Ignore the wast gates, there a thought that been abandoned .


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The passenge side should not be much of a challenge to make it work, this is what Im thinking for that.

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1mouse3

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I grabbed some scrap to experiment with some thoughts...

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And this is the next try at a bracket, It dose better at side load support.

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This is what I came up for the rear one...

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And this is it just hanging around, so just need to copy all this for the other side.

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The clearance around the glass pack will do but would had liked a little more room. The front support wanted to put up a fight to get where it is, dont want to bend it too much and snap it. Not sure if frame flex will cause issue and dont have enough material to try again.

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The_Josh_Bear

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You want me to ignore the waste gates but not the duct tape!? ;Poke;Poke :joker::joker:

You're probably right to worry about frame flex and for that matter engine flex from the mounts. Add some flex pipe for the win?
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1mouse3

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You want me to ignore the waste gates but not the duct tape!? ;Poke;Poke :joker::joker:


The person doing the welding will sort out the bailing wire and duct tape. ;Poke

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and for that matter engine flex from the mounts. Add some flex pipe for the win?


Thats acounted for in the parts bin. ;Poke

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1mouse3

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It is easyer to bend the ends first, other wise its a fight...

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Then its the chore of making shapes with nothing valid...

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At some point I got a mirror copy...

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They should send the same...

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Dont know where the discrepancy came from on the rear one, but will send the same.

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1mouse3

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I ended up getting a line to cover the distance but is the ebay spacial one.


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1mouse3

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I got the filters mounted back up where there is room for the battery support...


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I used the front bolts for it, to also hold the exhaust bracket...

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So have the driver side glass pack is mocked up...

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This side has better clearance to the cab...

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As for the passenger side, I can shift the pipes around to give it the same clearance.

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