Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Jimbanjer, Dec 15, 2018.
Glad to see some progress
The pic with square stacks,, are those stock F-superdutymirrors?
So I was able to borrow a truck to move the project to levelish ground up on the hill where hopefully the mud will dry out faster! I got 6 - 315/75r16 Ironman tires from tirebuyer.com and only paid $160 apiece and they came in next day! I got them mounted but found one of my wheels is out of balance so I’ll be looking for one DRW rim if someone has a spare DRW rim laying around.
Also got a set of 8” stacks for $150! I would have preferred 5-6” but the price these will work too! And a CB radio setup. I’m getting ready to rebuild the rear axle and pull the bad motor whenever we get a long enough dry spell to solid up the ground lol!
Those tires are going to look pretty mean on there.
So got another rim, one front simulator, a set of taillights and a drivers side bullnose DRW fender all for $100 today at a place in Old Fort, NC. He has at least 50-75 ford trucks he is parting out, mostly from the 70’s and 90’s. I still need to find a second front simulator and would like to find a passenger side bullnose DRW fender and sell my bricknose set.
I received my set of 2” spacers from wheeladapter.com today! They are extremely heavy so must be solid lol!
I just pulled my first motor!!! I know most of y’all have done that many times but this feels like a big stepping stone for me lol!
Next I’m either going to drop the front 2wd suspension or overhaul the rear end. Going to let some of the mud dry up first lol!
You may want to be careful doing this. I can't tell about the middle two casters in the first picture (with the engine part way out), but your two rear casters appear to be off of the ground. This could cause your cherry picker to tip forward (toward the back of the truck) and cause the engine to come crashing down. You should pull the adjustable boom arm in and then have your hydraulic ram right close to the front bumper. This will cause the weight to be carried farther back and help to keep the rear casters on the ground, reducing the chance of a tip over. Other than that advice, congratulations. It wasn't all that hard to do after all was it?
Next time pulling the exhaust and oil filter will save you some time and work, take your time and stay safe moving that heavy iron around.
For sure on the exhaust. I like to remove and reinstall an engine with an oil filter in place. This way, I don't dribble oil all over. The PSD filter is big enough that I couldn't get the engine out with it on so i bought a "sacrifical" 7.3IDI filter to put in place. I don't care if it gets dented since I won't be running the engine with it. No oil pressure, no leaks from a dented filter.
Nope! It was much easier than I was thinking! The reason the hoist was leaning forward was I accidentally pulled the truck too far back causing the core support to be pushing on the engine and couldn’t push the truck back uphill or push the hoist forwards in the mud. I didn’t have any issues with the oil filter or exhaust, I just cut it right behind where the two side meet I the Y pipe. The only main thing I would do different next time besides having some dry level ground would be to go ahead and take the front wheels off before I start hoisting if I have the core support in place.
So I pulled all my 2wd suspension with the exception of the coil brackets today! I ground off the heads of the rivets and tried to push them through with the rotary hammer but had no luck so I’ll try to drill them out next week!
On my Bronco, I used a long barrel air hammer. I would grind a Groove (slot?) in the rivet head. Then I'd use a chisel attachment in the air hammer to knock the head off. Next a punch attachment would knock the rivet body out easily. I would definitely recommend a good pair of ear plugs (unless you can't stand having something in your ears like me, then use ear muffs).
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