Lift pump

[Brandon Crislip]

And yeah I know it could still be leaking from the ring clamp where the soft line attaches but I know it's coming from higher too I think

 

[Brandon Crislip]

"Carburetor" fuel line should work at least for a while. You only need like a foot and a half.

If you don't have a wrench to tighten up the fuel line why are you surprised it's leaking? I guess I'm missing something. I think it's just a 5/8" for the hard line.

As far as the gasket, no that shouldn't be a problem, I do that sometimes myself. If the gasket is bad you'll be leaking oil from the block.

I used a wrench... I mean where u use the larger wrench to hold the pump while you tighten the line

 

[Brandon Crislip]

Ok guys I think it's just the soft line... the more I mess with it the more it leaks

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but it looks like there's a break in the hard line to me. It's horizontal, right above the clamp that holds the other, smaller line. It looks shiny in the picture. You should check this out. Now that I'm looking again, those could be zip ties instead of a clamp.

 

[Brandon Crislip]

Ya they are my friend pointed that out.. I will check it out again but I think once I dried it it wasn't wet there.. but I dunno for sure.. If it is broke there.. what can I do?

 

[Macrobb]

The IP doesn't need pressure anyway though.It just can't have a vacuum right?

It actually /can/ pull a vacuum, provided the lines are OK and you have no air. Not good for the pump long-term though, and your timing will be retarded.

Turn the key to run and let the pump prime the system without the need for cranking........how can you outperform this?

If you have to worry about priming the system, you are doing something wrong.
Any time you run into hard starting and think "Man, I wish I had an electric pump to prime this"... Think "I have an actual problem here, and an electric pump will just mask the symptoms for a while".

Seriously - I've taken several trucks so far, fixed the leaking fuel lines, replaced the mechanical pump etc... and guess what? No "bleed down" issues!
Park it for a couple weeks, come back, and it fires right up.

I have one truck that had issues, I put an e-pump on it as a stop-gap and guess what? It still has fuel issues. Why? Because the problem is either in the tank, lines or switchover valve, and it's still getting air into the system, e-pump or not!
(That truck is currently parked, waiting for time to replace that fuel system).

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

I ran out of fuel on the only working tank one time....your right it was something I did wrong.However I sure was some happy I could prime the system and at least fill the fuel filter with an e-pump.
I had replaced an IP a time or two and was thankful for the same reason.Nothing I was doing wrong.Just maintenance/upgrades.
I've replaced many fuel filters....empty without the mess which has always been nice.
I installed a new rear tank and she stalled on me going uphill because I didn't know where to adjust the float.It wasn't anything I did wrong so much as I didn't know until I started using the rear tank.
These were in chip truck.In log truck,I had the fuel drain back a time or two after sitting for winters and thankful I had the e-pump.Such a tiny leak somewhere evidently because it never happens during April-Dec.

The most thankful times I scrapped the mechanical's and have both trucks with duralift e-pumps will be due to many more things I do wrong,over the coming years.I thank them every time when I mess up and they save my starter. I have one of them feeding the famous 100cc Bull Moose IP issue free for a good many miles now.I couldn't ask for more.

 

[Thewespaul]

Let’s both change fuel filters and see which fuel pump starts the truck first
That’s what I mean by priming, I hold pressure in my fuel system, so I start on a dime every time

 

[Dieselcrawler]

If your hard line from lift pump to filter is cracked, you can make one from 3/8 brake line. Pretty easy

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

You can also just replace it with hose barb fittings and rubber line too.Like most of us do when we switch to e-pumps.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I'm not really sure that it's cracked. It just looks like it to me.

 

[Brandon Crislip]

Ok yesterday I put a new soft line on!!! But the lady at the parts store have me high pressure line, and it kinked... ran go good for a couple hours than went to get on the highwhighway and it died...first time it ever did that except when my fuse I bypassed the ignition switch fusible link with blew in the drive through.... put some low pressure fuel line and it hasn't had any problems since.... I've seen it posted on here several times but I'm gonna say it again in case anyone is having similar issues, the injection pump will suck fuel past your faulty mechanical lift pump, so if your truck runs ok but starts acting like it's starving for fuel check your lift pump!!! So that's it guys I think I've finally "got all the kinks out" so to speak!!!

 

[Brandon Crislip]

So I got the truck been rebuilt..motor, and The banks turbo, I think the tranny(zf5) too. Gear vender unit, straight body, tires worn very evenly signifying good alignment. Captains chairs... 2,000 15 dollar ignition switch 27 dollar lift pump, 60 dollars on two Spaldings batteries, some diesel, and injector cleaner, oh by the way is ATF automatic transmission fluid or some time, and a lot of patience and faith, and I think I'm looking pretty good for about 2300 all together!! I'd just like to acknowledge the LORD! Without His assurance I would have never had the confidence to buy it... our to get all the bugs worked out on my own... Also thanks to all the Oilburners!

 

[Brandon Crislip]

Oh I knew I was forgetting something... about 11 dollars for wire and a push button (for horn) that I wiredwires up for a push button start, that everyone thinks is really cool!!

 

[OlStinky]

hey guys. trying to find what type and possibly part number for lift pump, because the one i got from the parts store has a longer push arm than what is in my truck. appreciate all the help i can get