7.3 powerstroke lift pump

Tweety16

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I replaced the fuel lift pump in my 1997 Powerstroke about 9 months ago. It stopped the leak and started quickly. Now I think it is leaking agin and it is taking longer to start.
Are there any recommendations for a brand of lift pump to use? I think the one I put on 9 months ago was from Rock Auto. This is enough of a pain to replace that I woud rather not have to change it again.
Any advice would be appreciated!
 

u2slow

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I replaced the fuel lift pump in my 1997 Powerstroke about 9 months ago. It stopped the leak and started quickly. Now I think it is leaking agin and it is taking longer to start.
Are there any recommendations for a brand of lift pump to use? I think the one I put on 9 months ago was from Rock Auto. This is enough of a pain to replace that I woud rather not have to change it again.
Any advice would be appreciated!
It's more likely the fuel bowl and/or hoses & clamps.

If I still had a PSD, I would have gone to electric in a dual/duplex fashion (for redundancy) like a friend of mine did.
 

Black dawg

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Pretty common for the replacement pumps to leak these days. Dont know the answer for sure, but probably be better converting to electric.
 

Tomstill8569

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The replacement pumps are junk. I went through 3 in less then 6 months that left me stranded on the side of the road. That was enough for me I switched to electric. No more problems.
 

Indadesert

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A ford pump usually lasts 100k. I’d spend the money at a dealer. Or go aftermarket electric.
 

mydixiewrecked

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I just switched my 97 f350 over to electric. I used a 6.0 pump assembly and mounted it in the frame between the engine and the tank selector valve. It’s more of a hassle than the 7.3l super duty pump which is 1 line in 1 line out. (6.0 pump has supply and return). I liked that the 6.0 pink has a water in fuel sensor, a filter and a drain plug to release any water.
I also went ahead and installed an “Amazon” regulated return kit and deleted that horrible fuel bowl. The fuel heater assembly inside my filter housing was bad and falling apart. I removed said heater assembly,(center stand pipe is left hand threads ) and I put a small fine wire brush on a drill to break up and clean out all the crud/sediment that was under the heater element. When I spun the wire brush it broke up the sediment and I found that corrosion from water and sediment had eaten right thru the pot metal bowl in multiple places. Same exact thing happened to my 95 powerstroke I previously owned (it blew out while I was driving). So FYI, Just flipping the drain lever doesn’t remove the sediment in the bottom of the filter housing that is causing serious damage to the bowl.
I now have an easy to change spinning filter between the master cylinder and fender, a fuel pressure gauge mounted in the adjustable regulator that sits on top of the HPOP reservoir. WAY better setup. No issues with a manual pump lasting and priming the fuel system after filter changes or any other fuel system work. Diagnosing engine performance issues is also easier when you can just pop the hood and see a steady 65psi on the fuel pressure gauge. Definitely worth doing in my opinion and I’ve seen a lot being an ASE Master heavy truck and ASE Master Equipment mechanic for 30+ years.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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I just switched my 97 f350 over to electric. I used a 6.0 pump assembly and mounted it in the frame between the engine and the tank selector valve. It’s more of a hassle than the 7.3l super duty pump which is 1 line in 1 line out. (6.0 pump has supply and return). I liked that the 6.0 pink has a water in fuel sensor, a filter and a drain plug to release any water.
I also went ahead and installed an “Amazon” regulated return kit and deleted that horrible fuel bowl. The fuel heater assembly inside my filter housing was bad and falling apart. I removed said heater assembly,(center stand pipe is left hand threads ) and I put a small fine wire brush on a drill to break up and clean out all the crud/sediment that was under the heater element. When I spun the wire brush it broke up the sediment and I found that corrosion from water and sediment had eaten right thru the pot metal bowl in multiple places. Same exact thing happened to my 95 powerstroke I previously owned (it blew out while I was driving). So FYI, Just flipping the drain lever doesn’t remove the sediment in the bottom of the filter housing that is causing serious damage to the bowl.
I now have an easy to change spinning filter between the master cylinder and fender, a fuel pressure gauge mounted in the adjustable regulator that sits on top of the HPOP reservoir. WAY better setup. No issues with a manual pump lasting and priming the fuel system after filter changes or any other fuel system work. Diagnosing engine performance issues is also easier when you can just pop the hood and see a steady 65psi on the fuel pressure gauge. Definitely worth doing in my opinion and I’ve seen a lot being an ASE Master heavy truck and ASE Master Equipment mechanic for 30+ years.
Sounds like a really nice set up. Can you post a couple pics? I have a functioning mechanical fuel pump, and I've gutted the heater and all the other options on my fuel bowl to get rid of all the past leaks, but eventually I'm guessing I'm going to go electric lift. Your set up sounds pretty well put together.
 

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