how do they test for off-road diesel?

[motrack]

Ive been burning WMO in my trucks for several years with no ill efects, 50/50 mix winter and 75/25 summer.....even highter if its light oil. I keep front tank 100% diesel for starting and stoping and carry along a extra flter.

no pump or injector issues ......at least nothing out of the norm.

seperating the water that may be in a drum WMO is easy in winter..... I just place the drums outside and allow any water to freez into ice then pour off the oil.

I use oil from several shops, some is used as truck fuel and some as shop heat with a waste oil burner.

 

[-=DeanstuD=-]

.... I just place the drums outside and allow any water to freez into ice then pour off the oil...

WHY WHY WHY WHY WHY. Did I not think of this? Great idea, but of course we are now past winter and I am sure it won't be below freezing enough for me to do this.

FRICK! I have allot of water contaminated WMO outside in 55 gal drums. FRICK FRICK FRICK farm fuel too!

 

[subway]

WHY WHY WHY WHY WHY. Did I not think of this? Great idea, but of course we are now past winter and I am sure it won't be below freezing enough for me to do this.

FRICK! I have allot of water contaminated WMO outside in 55 gal drums. FRICK FRICK FRICK farm fuel too!

how about 5 gallon pails and a freezer, just dont tell the wifey

 

[h2odrx]

i dump my oil into an old well expansion tank that the rubber bladder failed on. i cut a hole in the top of the tank and it has pipe fittings off the bottom to feed my filters. my first filter is a 10 mic goldenrod filter
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_910810_910810
then my second filter is a 1 mic water filter like mentioned
http://www.acehardware.com/product/...filter&parentPage=search&searchId=23741022213

i then have a 1/4 turn valve before and after the filters to stop the flow when not in use. right now i just let gravity do its thing but i bought some parts to hook my compresor up (with a regulator ) to speed up filtering. even just a couple lbs of air signifcantly speeds things up.

Hey a well tank! great idea! Now if I can find one with the bottom feed hole.

 

[oldmisterbill]

I have access to a lot of used il-more then I could burn-only problem is there may be synthetic oil mixed in -also ATF and the same problem of possiple synthetic mixed in.Oh yes its from a jiffy lube-they pay to have it removed. Comments anyone.??

 

[motrack]

I know last summer my 6.9s diet was mostly WMO and hyd oil with synthetic ATF in the mix and survived.

I ran almost 200 gal of 90w gear lube back in August just need to add enough diesel to the mix so the life pump can move it along.

You WILL need to change the filter a bit more often but thats the price you pay for " free fuel".

Im currently out of WMO but have several dozer and loader *** to do next week which will be close to 500 gal of oil.

 

[metrojd]

WMO

I have been running 5w 30 semi syn. I get from a dealership and have had No problem.
I filter it through a 1 micron filter bag.

I have also heard that Trans. Fluid and Hydraulic Fluid is the best because of the high BTUs when it burns

I have heard that it is not good to use Diesel Oil becauso of the soot in.

John

 

[subway]

here is a pic of the simple set up i use, i was thinking i could direct the oil into two containers but really found it unnecessary. once i add some fitting to the top to put in some regulated air pressure it can filter allot quickly.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

here is a pic of the simple set up i use, i was thinking i could direct the oil into two containers but really found it unnecessary. once i add some fitting to the top to put in some regulated air pressure it can filter allot quickly.

That is INGENIOUS .


I am gonna dig up the old tank that someone left at the shop a few months ago and follow your lead; I just hope that the scrap-iron pirates haven't beat me to it.

Are you using a common string-wound filter, or a pleated one ??

I have a bunch of very old brand-new pleated ones, still in the box, that I have been hesitant to use in my drinking-water filters, on account of where I got them; I wouldn't be afraid to use them for oil/fuel.



Also, some kind of heat source, like maybe a water-heater blanket, or one of those small electric throws, or maybe even heat-tape, or just mount the tank directly above the shop stove, would thin the oil for free-er flow.


That set-up sure beats the "can't do nothing else in the shop" set-up that I have been using.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

here is a pic of the simple set up i use, i was thinking i could direct the oil into two containers but really found it unnecessary. once i add some fitting to the top to put in some regulated air pressure it can filter allot quickly.

On closer inspection, I had a small brain-storm :

An air-tank, from an air-brake application, would be even better than the old well-tank, as it would never have had the diaphragm inside it, nor all the rust and minerals associated with well-water.

Also, most air-brake tanks are blessed with dozens of NPT-threaded ports.

 

[h2odrx]

On closer inspection, I had a small brain-storm :

An air-tank, from an air-brake application, would be even better than the old well-tank, as it would never have had the diaphragm inside it, nor all the rust and minerals associated with well-water.

Also, most air-brake tanks are blessed with dozens of NPT-threaded ports.

That is a good idea but the bladder takes up over half the space so must rust is at the bottom? but I'd say there might not be much in there? I'm going with that well tank idea too! i'll post as soon as i can.

 

[Robert Davis]

As far as testing in southern Illinois they first dip and if they exspect somthing else then they test becaouse theres a lot of peaple burn transmission flued.As far as burning eng oil there sentry kits for large trucks to take straight used eng oil from crankcase and puts in fuel tank as it adds fresh oil to eng .We installed several on Pepsi trucks in are area.

 

[subway]

thanks, the first filter is pleated but the second one was spiral wound, like it said they were the the standard ones that go with the housings. i honestly don't know a ton about them, i am actually following the lead of some people who said they used them. i did want the maximum filtering ability though. heat would really help flow the oil much better i am sure. in its current set up the flow is barely more than a solid stream if that. that will change very quickly once i add some fittings to pressurize the tank.

i did pull the rubber bladder out which took me about an hour and was slimy and nasty. hey is was free. i did cut out and leave the very bottom of the bladder where it is shaped like an o-ring to seal the bottom where it bolts on. i then pressure washed the inside to clean the rest up. there is some rust on the inside but i figured it wouldn't be a problem behind the filters and once it was covered in oil shouldent be a problem at all.

i am sure there could be better tanks but i saw this one at the right time laying out.