Front Cab Mounts

[tbrumm]

Ray, if it were my truck, I would just buy the replacement cab mount panels and have a body shop bolt them in - way less than 100 hours. I would be looking at fixing them good enough to pass inspection and get a few more years out of the truck until something else rusted out. We are not talking about restoration grade repair but rather "good enough to pass inspection". While Wisconsin does not have vehicle inspection, I would think that once the inspector saw solid metal in there again, it would pass, even if the old rusty mounts were still there underneath the new mounts. If your cab mounts are that bad though, what do the spring shackles/mounts look like? I usually end up having to replace those because they rot faster.

 

[tbrumm]

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/80...ck-Right-Front-Cab-Support/productinfo/34043/
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/19...uck-Left-Front-Cab-Support/productinfo/34044/
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/19...Ford-Truck-Floor-Pan-Right/productinfo/34040/
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/19...-Ford-Truck-Floor-Pan-Left/productinfo/34041/

You may be able to find these parts cheaper elsewhere, and your body shop could certainly order them.

 

[HammerDown]

Ray, if it were my truck, I would just buy the replacement cab mount panels and have a body shop bolt them in - way less than 100 hours. I would be looking at fixing them good enough to pass inspection and get a few more years out of the truck until something else rusted out. We are not talking about restoration grade repair but rather "good enough to pass inspection". While Wisconsin does not have vehicle inspection, I would think that once the inspector saw solid metal in there again, it would pass, even if the old rusty mounts were still there underneath the new mounts. If your cab mounts are that bad though, what do the spring shackles/mounts look like? I usually end up having to replace those because they rot faster.

I appreciate your advice, I wouldn't think "bolted cab mount panels" are acceptable or were even an option. I do believe the rot it also going up the firewall to where there isn't enough existing material/metal to be substantial to bolt or weld to.
By the way, when looking up under the drivers floor...in the mount area the carpet is visible.
If you're referring to the REAR spring mounts yes, I know they rot but mine are still ok...but do have a lot of surface rust on them. I'll check out your links.
Again, thanks.

 

[HammerDown]

just "move" the registration to a new state
my moped is registered in new hampshire because GA doesnt require registration so I can't drive it in states that do

And due tell, what address is your registration info being mailed to in NH? Do you know someone in NH?

 

[nj_m715]

I just used my GA address. vermont and a few other states allow non residents to register vehicles in their state
the info is on their website and videos are on youtube
there are companies who provide registration services for a fee but I'm cheap so I printed the forms and mailed it myself

what are the rules for antique / classic / historic vehicles in your state? might be another option


sorry man, it's Vermont not nh

 

[zebrabeefj40]

I had the same issue with my truck. Cab mounts rotted out, rockers rusted at the edge of the floor pan and the floor rusted under the drivers feet. I repaired most of it and was about to install the new rocker when I found a rust free cab in CT for $1000 delivered to me in northern MA. Off came my kinda repaired cab and on went the way better cab. I found a cab the right year, right color with the right interior complete minus the steering column and door panels. It was a gas auto 4x2 truck so I did have to cut out the area for the trans and t-case shifters. I also had to pull the dash to swap in my diesel wiring harness. The headliner had been damaged so that got swapped too. The door that came with the cab used the wrong mirrors so I used my old doors (I'll swap the doors back after I figure out a good towing mirror solution). While I had the whole thing gutted I installed a sound deadener "kit" from www.sounddeadenershowdown.com and new stereo speakers. While the cab was off I had to repair the rear bushing pockets on the frame - those had rusted out to the diameter of the body bushings. The new cab was mounted with Energy Suspension poly bushings and stainless bolts.

In short, I would not bother fixing your current cab if rusted that bad - I'd swap a better cab if you want to keep the truck for a while longer. I found my cab with www.car-part.com - search all the different options for your extended cab. I didn't find a diesel cab but the gasser cab worked just fine with a little work.

Nick

 

[HammerDown]

Update, stopped by a local body shop and the owner I've known for a long time. I explained my situation and he said "Ray, we do this all the time" So, with that he suggested to drive my truck over, he'll craw under and around and see what is needed to get it to PASS Pa INSPECTION.
He only welds the corner supports in and he has to see even if there is enough decent/sound metal to weld to.
No crazy restoration work, just what may be needed to get another year or so out of my Truck.
If the number is too $$$ then I'll be selling the truck and if the repair number is reasonable (maybe a grand or so) than I'll let him do the work.
As for locating another Cab, that's just not an option for me, I don't have the time, the physical health to do all that. With the lower radiator support also looking bad, a Cab swap would just be a big band-aid while other areas are also rotting away too.

 

[Thewespaul]

I have a rust free cab I would donate to see you keep your original truck on the road.

 

[catbird7]

The floor and cab mount are definitely repairable without removing the cab however it's not a small job and often results in a "domino affect" replacing much more than initially intended. Conversely, it's way easier than swapping a cab, however a rust free cab is better than a repaired rusty one, IMO........ Repair panels are available from numerous places, LMC, Raybuck (right here in PA), and others. Your 31 year old truck certainly qualifies for antique plates which does relieve you from annual state inspection + you no longer are required to purchase the annual license. However that doesn't solve the problem of rusty cab mounts.... I just completed a "cab swap" for my brother who wasn't in a hurry, and neither was I. Someone who was skilled, and dedicated all of their effort could likely complete this in days, it took me nearly two years. Hate to see a guy lose a truck he owned for 31 years, think it through before you pull the trigger on a "For Sale" sign..........

 

[david85]

I have a rust free cab I would donate to see you keep your original truck on the road.

Sometimes it really sucks that we're from all over the continent. I bet a few of us could bang a cab swap in a few days. I even have the shop space for a project like this.

 

[nj_m715]

I have a rust free cab I would donate to see you keep your original truck on the road.

there's enough northeast guys coming to the rally to drag it back

 

[HammerDown]

Wow, in all honesty some of the replies to keep my ole girl on the road and the offer for a "free rust-free cab" and having it delivered actually have my eyes tearing-up.
Over the decades many have known me here and actually have met me and my once pristine truck at the IDI Rally held in Pa many-many years ago (maybe 2002?)
My truck in all original condition turned heads and received a lot of attention for being kept all original and very well maintained. Of course Mel and Travis and a few others I recall meeting...and over the years I have sold the few friends I had back then I have never met a nicer group of people. Ok, so now my eyes are wet.

TODAY'S UPDATE PLEASE READ FOR SUGGESTIONS...
I did take my truck to a local body shop that I've known for a long time. The owners son (now proudly taking over for his Pop) walked over to my truck and he immediately observed the bigger gaps in the front of the hood and the sagging upper-front fenders edges...he popped the hood to inspect the lower radiator supports which are obviously in bad condition but that was not why it failed inspection. His dad told him; "Ray's here for the cab mounts"...Bob Jr then crawled under the truck and gave it a look-over. He yelled out; "oh this is bad but fixable". With that Jr yelled-out "12 hours per side with R&R of the interior carpets, front seats etc"
Dad and I went into the office and he handed me the work order with a total of $1,590.00 I asked if he could do a little better and he told me; "I'm only charging you 1/2 of my regular hourly rate and I'll let you use a loaner car to get to your 90+ year old fathers nursing home." He would have the truck about 10-days.

Now, in a post above a member said the weld-in panels shout take 10-hours labor time.
Bob (shop owner) stated; he would fabricate everything that is needed in house, floor-pans and the mounts etc and guaranteed his work for 6-years...HOWEVER...he also said; "I can't guarantee what I'm welding to" (understandable as more rust could be inches away)
So, is $1,590 a fair price for that work?

As for the cab offer...I would have to see what the Shop would charge for the Cab-Swap and of course the required paint....could be $$$$$$$$$$$.

Again, you guys can sure lift a mans spirit, I thank you for that.

 

[david85]

For new floors and cab mounts with a 6 year warranty? Sounds like a good deal to me.

It cost me about 1k CAD to get my frame off cab repainted. Chances are, they can do better since most things are more expensive up here in Canada.

 

[nj_m715]

actually, I volunteered other people to tow the cab for you
hopefully I'll never return to the north east for the rest of my life

that price sounds good, personally I would have a hard time passing up a texas cab.
why not see if your shop would do the swap and get a price for that too?

then weigh the options
it might be worth paying a little more to get a permanent fix instead of an expensive bandaid if you can swing it

 

[pafixitman]

actually, I volunteered other people to tow the cab for you
hopefully I'll never return to the north east for the rest of my life

that price sounds good, personally I would have a hard time passing up a texas cab.
why not see if your shop would do the swap and get a price for that too?

then weigh the options
it might be worth paying a little more to get a permanent fix instead of an expensive bandaid if you can swing it

Careful what you wish for NJ, life happens! When I left MD for south central PA I swore I would never return to MD. I left PA for *******, GA and swore I would never go north. Today I live in MD and commute to King of Prussia PA.

Back on topic... The only caveat I see with a rally based boob express is most guys are pulling their home away from home and not a flat deck trailer. That said if it was me Ray, bounce the cab swap and repaint off of the guy and see what the number is. If the number is decent and Wes has a cab (and a core support...hint hint) logistics would be a (in my mind) just a small hiccup in the plan to save your truck.