david85
Full Access Member
Who cares about the OBS guys? They can fend for themselves now that they have aftermarket support.
(yes, I'm jealous
)
(yes, I'm jealous
)
Front Cab Mounts
- Thread starter HammerDown
- Start date
HammerDown
Full Access Member
Well, that repair didn't last long...30 miles driven on smooth roads and the floor below my feet felt movement and I heard metal buckling. Also, the gap between the drivers door and the front fender closed up again.
So how do I handle that with the body shop that originally told me "I guarantee my work for SIX years but there is no guarantee as to what I weld to".
So how do I handle that with the body shop that originally told me "I guarantee my work for SIX years but there is no guarantee as to what I weld to".
I'm sure there's some kind of recourse for you. For that to fail so quickly is nothing short of shoddy work. If "what they welded to" failed this quickly then they don't know what they're doing in the first place. I would take it back AS SOON AS POSSIBLE and see what they say. If there's a shred of decency they will fix it for nothing. If not, I'd be calling a lawyer.
Less than a week right? You picked it up on the 26th and it's the first now.
Shadetreemechanic
Full Access Member
At this point he should warranty it based on what he chose to weld to. That is all on him and you should broadcast far and wide how you were treated if he doesn't make it right.
david85
Full Access Member
Are you able to post pictures of any of this work (carnage)?
The rear footwell doesn't bare much load in these trucks but the front edge ties into the cab mount.
The rear footwell doesn't bare much load in these trucks but the front edge ties into the cab mount.
HammerDown
Full Access Member
Thanks again fellas, sorry for the late reply but I have not been healthy.
I put maybe 30 miles on the truck in a few short days. All was quiet and seemed tight then...I left my father nursing home (4 mile drive) and I heard metal buckling below the drivers floor. Got home and sure enough the upper door to fender gap closed-up again, just like when the cab dropped before.
Before I wanted to make the call I wanted to take a day or so to calm-down and became sick...I have not crawled under the truck to look at anything. I would be curious if they ever matched the distance/gap from the frame top to the bottom of the cab.
I believe they are open tomorrow, I'll call to see what they have to say, but I feel like I threw $2k out the window.
BTW, I'm no longer hearing or feeling the floor move...not until more of the repair rips apart?
Big thanks for the feedback, Ray
I put maybe 30 miles on the truck in a few short days. All was quiet and seemed tight then...I left my father nursing home (4 mile drive) and I heard metal buckling below the drivers floor. Got home and sure enough the upper door to fender gap closed-up again, just like when the cab dropped before.
Before I wanted to make the call I wanted to take a day or so to calm-down and became sick...I have not crawled under the truck to look at anything. I would be curious if they ever matched the distance/gap from the frame top to the bottom of the cab.
I believe they are open tomorrow, I'll call to see what they have to say, but I feel like I threw $2k out the window.
BTW, I'm no longer hearing or feeling the floor move...not until more of the repair rips apart?
Big thanks for the feedback, Ray
hacked89
Full Access Member
What you explain about the drivers door, fender, the gap between them, the crunch, etc. You can see in detail in my current thread. You'll be able to see why you hear the shifting under the floor too. It's interesting to me in the past 2 days the finally figuring out the unknowns of the door to fender crumbling and the same thing that happens to north east trucks. I'm in bucks county now.
Anyway, I knew you weren't feeling well and hope you're doing better. I bumped this to see if you got a chance to take pics of underneath like you were planning or any pics of how they fixed it. I'm very curious to see how they fixed this without being more invasive...
With a number of hands on hours around this now I don't see how it can be fixed back to factory without what's in my last couple posts.
Edit: have to say it's clearer to me now what they wanted to do after re-reading your thread. They wanted to cut the LMC core front bracket at an angle and then bolt that to the mount, and weld it to the support beam. Cause you can re-do the support structure with the 2 inch drop on the frame. But that's not right. You need to pull the fenders and doors at minimum to re lift the 2 inches. That was listed in my consideration options cause it's the most straightforward way to fix the integrity. Sounds like they estimated you originally to do that versus the full job and when you told then what the hell they got stuck with the rest.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Last edited:
