another IDI drinking WMO

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Gave it up for the winter months here.
The Gold one sure doesn't like the cold weather and was giving me the fits on startup.
Back to the "D" for now.
Oh well gives me plenty of time to stock up for the summer months.

 

[JayeL]

yes, Jaye.
i run amsoil & the first 4 tanks or so was strictly that. burns quite well

Thanks for the update......now to collect waste syn oil from my racer buds :Sly

 

[tbirdfiend281]

cause i was curious as the longevity, cause the talk from a few techs i know is its bad, and im talking diesel specific techs who know the ford diesels very well

 

[spg]

What are the specifics that they are saying is bad about WMO use? Not just a blank statement that it is bad but real reasons why.

 

[cscmc1]

Just bumping this thread back up; can WMO users add any more thoughts on this? Any issues confronted yet?

Thanks!

 

[shorthair]

i am running a 70/30 blend filtered to 2 microns wmo/dino with little or no apparent problems for the first 10,000 miles

 

[troupp]

Was running 100% wmo, until it got cold, then 50/50, now I am getting fed up with the clogged filters, poor start-up occasionally, and overall, I getting fed up with my truck, it's been getting somewhere around 10 mpg, and I'm really thinking about parking it and driving the Saturn all winter.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

I think the problem is most of use are running our drain oil. Diesel motor oil is thick, nasty stuff. Lots of suspended carbon.

Most new cars run 5w20 oil, which is nice and thin. Drain oil from a new car dealer would be thin and relatively clean. I believe it would burn great in a diesel as fuel.

 

[DeepRoots]

another problem I see:

with WVO, it is pretty obvious that diesel really doesn't thin it very much. Gasoline, kerosene etc do a better job. I assume motor oil is the same way.
also mixing in the tank typically results in 90% of the heavier substance sinking to the bottom of the tank.

and how come none of you are heating the motor oil?
seems to me, $100 for a 26plate heat exchanger, and $50 in fuel line/coolant line tubing, and you could be running front tank diesel and rear tank WMO @ 150+ degrees.

That'd thin it out, not clog the filter as quickly, and inject alot better. I also urge you to get some sort of pressure/vac gauge on the filter. I've crushed a few filters with overly thick fluids in the past.

 

[79 300sd]

another problem I see:

and how come none of you are heating the motor oil?
seems to me, $100 for a 26plate heat exchanger, and $50 in fuel line/coolant line tubing, and you could be running front tank diesel and rear tank WMO @ 150+ degrees.

I have everything laying on a workbench to do this. Kaori 26 plate heat exchanger, 10 feet of hoh, coolant wrapped goldenrod, second pollack valve, and a holley blue pump.

The hoh will be used for both tanks, from the existing pollack valve to the engine compartment. The second one will allow me to select if the fuel will flow through the fphe and goldenrod, or through the factory filter.

I hope to have time this week to do the installation.


David

 

[Agnem]

I don't heat it, because I don't run it in very high concentrations. I'm usually below 25% WMO content, and haven't had any problems.

 

[David23]

Dang really good thread guys! Over 10 years old and still relevant!