3 days to go and she is dead!

Exekiel69

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pafixitman said:
I was going to see how she acted this weekend and debate replacing all of the gp's for s&g.


but you said it won even crank, right?
I remember you have this starting issue for a while now Joe, is there any chance there is a short in some place or some wire that is allways ON even with the ignition off? You have electronic guges right?

We are all getting ready for the rally but if there is something I can help you with (besides knowledge bc there is 100 guys here that can help you better on that) let Me know I'm not soo far.
 

pafixitman

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Exekiel69 said:
but you said it won even crank, right?
I remember you have this starting issue for a while now Joe, is there any chance there is a short in some place or some wire that is allways ON even with the ignition off? You have electronic guges right?

Yep, no cranky, nada, nothing, zip, zilch. Lights are bright etc. Yeah I do think I have a short. I have never been able to find it. After my wally world battery ordeal, I went back to the Diehards. If she sits over a week, then I have to charge them. I'm sure it is in my gauge wiring, 'cuz for the past month, I have been pulling the fuse that powers the gauges and have not had an issue other than the cold start problem. If I plug her in, she starts fine (yep, it is June and I have plugged her in twice cookoo )

I'll get the batts load tested and I may have a lead on a used gpc.


Tim - WFM (Weekend Freedom Machine)
 

hoodshauler

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Joe

had the same problem a few months ago fine one day nothing the next.
Ours turned out to be the starter. Not sure if I under stand what you said, hate you triied crossing the starter sclnoid hot lead and the switch post to see if it turns over. do you even get a click when you hit the switch?
:confused:
Hate to hear of your troubles so close to the rally. Keep us informed.
 
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tonkadoctor

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However, I do have a non-related question. What's WFM? I have a passive interest in old JD and Cub Cadet tractors and like to read about and research them. Possibly a future winter project.

If you like reading up the the old Deere tractors then you'll love the Weekend Freedom Machine website. Tons of info there. These little tractors make great inexpensive projects. I did a frame up resto on a Cub Cadet 147 Hydro about 10 years ago and it only cost me about $600 total. I did it during a 2 week vacation.
 

TLBREWER

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tonkadoctor said:
If you like reading up the the old Deere tractors then you'll love the Weekend Freedom Machine website. Tons of info there. These little tractors make great inexpensive projects. I did a frame up resto on a Cub Cadet 147 Hydro about 10 years ago and it only cost me about $600 total. I did it during a 2 week vacation.

Thanks! I'll check it out. :thumbsup:

Tom
 

OkieGringo

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6.9 and/or 7.3 loss of voltage to glow plug controller:
Usually as these trucks get older, the wires from the starter relay to the glow plug controller build up resistance --usually at the engine harness connector--and melt the terminal at the controller, the harness connector or one or both fuse links at the starter relay. The best repair I have found is to overlay a new circuit, by-passing the trouble area of the engine harness connector. You need a 6 foot long, 6 gauge starter or ground cable (ring terminals at both ends) and 12 inches of 14 gauge fuse link wire and some 1/2" diameter heat shrink tubing. Cut the end off the two yellow wires at the glow plug controller and remove the double wire or single cable at the starter relay and tape back the ends. About 4 inches from one end of the 6 gauge cable, cut the cable and strip back the insulation approximately 3/4". Cut the fuse link wire in half, strip all 4 ends. Double up the two fuse links side by side and solder them between the two pieces of cable. Insulate the solder splices with the heat shrink. Install the cable at the starter relay and glow plug controller, routing it along the original harness and secure with plastic wire ties or electricians tape.

Glow Plug Controller By-Pass

Take the WHITE wire OFF the GP Controller(GPC), and insulate it with tape. ADD a wire from where the white wire had come off, and run it to a Momentary Switch on the dash near the Wait To Start light,
from the other side of the Momentary Switch to a good ground.
Also cut the Blue/White wire going to the GPC and connect
that to the terminal on the GPC where the white wire was attached(you’ll now have 2 wires on that terminal), that will make the Wait To Start light come on when you press the button to glow up the plugs for however long you hold the Momentary Switch. If you don’t have Motorcraft Glow Plugs, I don’t recommend this procedure.
************************************
Glow Plug Controller by-pass

There are a coulpe of ways to do this.

ONE: I added a wire from the WHITE wire terminal on the GPC and ran it to a momentary switch on the dash. Then ran a wire from the other side of the momentary switch to groung. This way I can push the button after the Wait To Start light goes out for a few more seconds to heat the GPs some more before I start. It'll still work automatically.

TWO: Take the WHITE wire OFF the GP Controller(GPC), and insulate it with tape. ADD a wire from where the white wire had come off, and run it to a Momentary Switch on the dash near the Wait To Start light,
from the other side of the Momentary Switch to a good ground.
Also cut the Blue/White wire going to the GPC and connect
that to the terminal on the GPC where the white wire was attached(you’ll now have 2 wires on that terminal), that will make the Wait To Start light come on when you press the button to glow up the plugs for however long you hold the Momentary Switch. If you don’t have Motorcraft Glow Plugs, I don’t recommend this procedure.

THREE: Go to www.webshots.com plug in my username (bajajeeper) and look at the uploads I have there. You'll find what you need.


OkieG
 

typ4

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I would check all connections and ground cables at the engine also, without seeing it I would guess bad connection or bad ign or neutral switch,fuse link anything that feeds power, also check alternator output. sound very wierd and gremlinish.
my 2 c
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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GRuss said:
Hey Joe.......Clicky :D
Joe let me take care of this one. :backoff

-Flame Thr -cuss


GRUSS You bad man..... You go away now.


:D


Back on track,

When my GPC died it just kept trying to cycle the Gp's.

I too wonder about the wiring as the Beef gave similar issues and if the contacts on the starter were not perfect polished squeaky clean, she'd give the same fits.
I then sealed em up with the battery terminal post spray and all has bee good since. :confused:
 
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krawlr

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pafixitman said:
I used the Haynes test procedures and I fail the iginition test. Using the terminal @ the one o'clock position and ground, iginition in run, I get .34 volts. I'll start tracing fusible links.

Would this keep the truck from even trying to start?

I know you said the connections were clean and tight but did you actually disconnect all the big cables and clean them? Your symptoms sound very much like a bad connection. [BrokenRecordMode] I don't consider a connection clean and tight until I personally take it apart and clean it with a wire brush and put it back together myself. I have repaired many a no-start this way. I've seen many connections physically tight but electrically only flow a tiny fraction of thier normal current. [/BrokenRecordMode]

I found bad connections everywhere on my '89, fixed all kinds of gremlins.

Good luck man! I'll be in WVA video taping my offroad buddies at a charity event. Maybe I'll make it to the MW rally so everyone can LOL at my junk.(my truck that is) LOL
 

pafixitman

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She lives!!!

:hail :hail :thumbsup:

OK, I am eating some crow. I had the batteries load tested at Sear's and ....one failed big time.

I just doubled checked all connections, everything is clean, tight and coated w/ di-electric grease. She started faster than she has in 2 + years!

Thanks again for all of the input and sorry you had to :idiot: :idiot: so many times! My wife will tell you it is normal for me!

Now, I need to make up for lost time and get her detailed! I will be having a clinic at the rally called "Find Joe's electrical short" for all who want to attend!
 

Agnem

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I'm surprised my phone didn't ring. Joe, PRTJ! Don't go ballistic, I'm sure it's something simple. With all the moisture, last couple of times I go to crank Lady Moose, and nothing happens. I just cycle the key and then she goes. I'm sure it's moisture or oxidation on the starter solenoid contacts. Couple of questions. First, if you put the headlights on, are they nice and bright? When you try to crank it, do they dim out or stay bright? Give me a call for more ideas.
 

hoodshauler

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Well Joe guess the PRTJ hit you and Us Too. Peppermint threw the belt friday.
 
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