Project Little Foot

[subway]

it is a little hard to see but i looks like the ring gear has rust where it interfaces with the pinion. you can put some marker on it and check the pattern. if the pattern looks good and is not hitting the rust area you should be fine.

if it is hitting the pitted area and it is not to deep i would probably run it. i would want to keep an eye on the oil though. check it here and there for shiny sparkly stuff in the oil.

 

[onetonjohn]

Well I got new bearing, races, seals, and brakes for the rear axle (best I could get at NAPA). Anyone want to take a stab at how much? Holy pile of do-do batman. I had to ask the parts guy to add it up for me again. I couldn't believe it would come close to $500 bucks. That pretty much blows my build budget for a little while. I still need to pick up a bushing set at energy suspension and see if I can get it will 1" body lift (to make more room for turbo), but it's got to wait a little bit now.

 

[hacked89]

Nice progress. Our build plans almost line up exactly between our trucks. Things can definetly get pricey I hear ya but it's worth it in the end doing things the right way. I had to order 500 bucks of pre fab sheetmetal for mine last week.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Well I got new bearing, races, seals, and brakes for the rear axle (best I could get at NAPA). Anyone want to take a stab at how much? Holy pile of do-do batman. I had to ask the parts guy to add it up for me again. I couldn't believe it would come close to $500 bucks. That pretty much blows my build budget for a little while. I still need to pick up a bushing set at energy suspension and see if I can get it will 1" body lift (to make more room for turbo), but it's got to wait a little bit now.

Yeah I hear you there! I swapped rear axles to 3.55 gearing and my "$100" axle cost another $300 in just brake hardware!! $160 of that was the drums but still! Not cool. Stops pretty good though.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Stops pretty good though.

Whoa is more important than go!

 

[onetonjohn]

Finally got it inside and can start assembly at my own pace - no longer junking up the yard. That said, the shop is a little (way) cramped now, so need to get this thing back together. Working on my motorcycle this week, but next week I can get back on it. Prob ably lots of questions coming. Here's how she sits now.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[saburai]

Finally got it inside and can start assembly at my own pace - no longer junking up the yard. That said, the shop is a little (way) cramped now, so need to get this thing back together. Working on my motorcycle this week, but next week I can get back on it. Prob ably lots of questions coming. Here's how she sits now.

You must be registered for see images attach

Almost finished!

 

[onetonjohn]

Maybe by next year? Hope so.

 

[onetonjohn]

Well there was a while there where I thought the truck may never go back together. I've made some progress:
Engine installed.
New injection pump.
Updated glow plug controller.
Trans and transfer case installed.
Cawl and side drains sealed with 3m urethane sealant.
Welded patches in the floor where it had rotted.
Cab back on.
Fuel and brake lines installed.
Fuel tanks in.
E-brake cable connected.
Front clip set in place.
Resealed power steering pump and power steering box.

I'm starting to think it may actually run again. I told my wife it would take a year, and looking back over my previous posts, it's been 4 (I thought it was more than 5). I got put on truck restriction - meaning no new trucks till this one is together and running. I'm interpreting this as it's together and can move under it's own power - not necessarily done done. Here's a pic. Still looking a little rough, but I actually think it will run again (hopefully before the rain).

Next up:
Radiator
Oil and coolant.
Steering column with borgeson steering shaft.
Bleed brakes.
Cab stuff (trans shifter, t case shifter, floor pan)
Troubleshoot electrical (make sure everthing is hooked up).
Front driveline.
Fire it up???

Sound deaden cab.
Get rear driveline made and install.
Various other improvements.
Test drive, fix, repeat.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

Your only 6 years faster than me. I tore my 84 k10 down in 2014. It is currently a rolling frame with a completely stripped cab bolted on it.

James

 

[onetonjohn]

It's amazing how long these things take. Never doing that again. Will do targeted repairs, but not everything all at once.

 

[onetonjohn]

In case anyone else is looking for this, I wired in new glow plug controller using new connector. I mapped the pins from the old connector to the new connector. Hopefully this is sufficient. Will attempt to fire up the truck soon, so I can confirm it works, but I mapped the pins from old and new connectors as follows (sorry if my handwriting sucks). One thing to note is that the diarams are looking down at the pins (connection side) and that the old connector is from fender side perspective and new is from engine side (pins swapped right to left when converting to fender side). Here's a pic. Probably a dumb question, but I don't know so I'm going to ask. The ignition on wire that goes to temp sense and cold start and low idle on the injection pump is thin. On the new style, they have two fused thicker wires becuase it also feeds the fuel warmer tube. Is the hot side of the starter relay always hot, or is it only hot when ignition is on? Curious if I can feed the blue wires with this.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The hot side of the starter relay/solenoid is connected directly to your passenger's battery. It's always hot. The other side is only hot when the key is in the "start" position, but I'm sure that you already knew that last part.

 

[onetonjohn]

Tried to fire her up yesterday. Found some minor issues/leaks. Biggest problem was not enough fuel in the tank (only 5 gallons). Gauge reads empty for both tanks (each with 5 gallons). Pulled the sending unit on the rear tank. Shower head wasn't there. Just black bits. Search of the forum shows using fuel line and cutting spearhead or fishmouth or using replacement such as this one from bronco graveyard.

1980-1986 Ford Bronco and F-Series TruckSending Unit Filter-Broncograveyard.com

3/8 ID X 2 3/4 X 15/16 OD

shop.broncograveyard.com

Any strong opinions on which one is better. I'm gonna look for a wire screen filter to keep the big stuff out. Maybe that could be third option. Looking for what's best, as I've got the bed off and only want to do it once. Bought some new floats from bronco graveyard for 5 bucks. For that price, I jsut ordered and can figure out how to fix my brass float that is filled with fuels with no apparent leaks (holes or cracks) that allows the fuel to exit. I was thinking I would drill it, drain it, and then solder or tig the hole, but I'd need to find the original leak. Any info would be helpful, as I have read several solutions via search, but not clear which is best. Starting to feel a little pressure to at least get if fired up and moving under it's own power. Winter is coming.

 

[Old Goat]

You need to click on "Fuel systems truck" not Bronco.

Ford Bronco and F Series Truck Fuel System Parts - Gas Lines, Pumps, Tanks and more

Your picture is for something for a gas engine.

This listing has the Shower Heads (cheapest anywhere)
And sending units.

Sending Units Diesel-Broncograveyard.com

Since you have her tore down, good time to up grade the rear tank to the Spectra F26E 38 gallon tank.
You will need to extend the float arm and pick up tube about 5 inches.


When I got the 86 9 yrs back, didn`t use the rear tank, just ran off the front, then one day gauge stayed on empty. For a while I just wrote down the milage and every 300 miles filled up, had a few close call`s almost had to walk a couple times.
Float sank,.
Pulled bed, replaced both Senders and 38 gal tank.

Bought my senders here.

Ford F-Series Diesel Fuel Sending Units

<p>Gas Tank Depot carries high-quality replacement diesel fuel sending units for Ford F-Series trucks from 1983 to current models. We stock units for F-250, F-350, and Super Duty trucks equipped with 6.9L, 7.3L, 6.0L, 6.4L, and 6.7L Powerstroke diesel engines.</p> <h2>Ford Diesel Sending Units...

www.gastankdepot.com

You are doing a good job, stay focused and don`t cut corners. Anything worth doing right takes time...and money and a patient tolerant understanding Wife.

I used Dynamat on my 85 extra cab, got first box off e-bay, $160. Ran out of the 9 sheets and picked up a 2nd one at Summet racing in Reno, $165. Some left, and dove into the 86..and needed more...price jumped to $192...Yikes.
Eastwood has the same stuff, their brand name for $94. Also have a store in Reno. I think it is called Xmat.
Gone up some...thanks Joe...

Eastwood X-MAT® Sound Deadening 18x31 inches 34.8 SQ FT

Eliminate road noise and heat by applying under carpet, door panels, inner firewall and more.

www.eastwood.com

Goat