Zf5 swap and engine swap

[cardana24]

Is there a hardware list for the radiator support mounts? Mine were a ball of rust and I ordered the energy suspension kit years ago but it does not come with any hardware. The energy suspension kit come with the pieces that go on the ear mount but that’s it. What other hardware is needed?

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[cardana24]

I got the front end back together. I am now dealing with an oil leak at my oil cooler which I started another thread on. Also my brake line that runs from the front to rear of the truck rusted out. I have ordered a set of stainless line from bronco grave yard. Hopefully I’ll be able to drive the truck soonish. I had to pick up a front right blinker from the junkyard too because one of my mounting points broke off when I was removing them years ago.

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[hacked89]

Good progress and your carpet and seat upholstery is in nice shape if original.
Your past the point but for the future lmc truck has all the bushings you would need for the body and core supports. They have blow out diagrams that I use to figure out what I need like your question.



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[cardana24]

Good progress and your carpet and seat upholstery is in nice shape if original.
Your past the point but for the future lmc truck has all the bushings you would need for the body and core supports. They have blow out diagrams that I use to figure out what I need like your question.



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Thanks is man, yeah the interior is original. The seat was kept covered until I bought it.

Thanks for the tip on lmc. I have the diagram that came with the set of energy suspension set I bought. The problem I ran into is that they assume you are going to be able to reuse your hardware and parts that mount on top of core support. Mine were all a rust ball. So I had to cut them out. I ended up using a small busing from a ford ranger kit I had in my garage for the top bushing, and then I got 3.5” 1/2” bolts from Lowe’s along with some washers and nuts. It seems to fit well now so I think it’s alright.

 

[cardana24]

Still pushing forward slowly to get this thing back on the road. Once I got it running I had a steady oil leak coming down the oil filter. It was coming from above the filter but I could not see exactly where it was coming from, but it had something to do with the surfaces where the rear oil cooler and the block met. I resealed another oil cooler and replaced it, and it seems the leak is taken care of. Now I am moving on to the next big thing that is keeping me from driving. The brake lines had rusted through so fluid would just pour out of the line going to the rear when I would add fluid at the master cylinder. Some of the other lines looked like they may rust thru at any moment so I bought the stainless steel line kit that Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard sells. I started working on this last night and the line that goes from the front to the rear is being a pain where it runs beside the fuel tank. It is held in by some sort of plastic clamp that also has the fuel lines hooked to it and I don’t see how to release the brake line...it also does not help it’s hard to see between the fuel tank and frame rail. Any advice on this one?

Here is where it was rusted thru, it looks like there have already been patches put in, in the past in this area.

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The kit

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I got the rear done

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[IDIBRONCO]

Behind the tank, the brake line is probably being held in by the same kind of plastic holder that is showing in your picture with the leak. Since the truck's on a lift, maybe you can loosen or even remove the straps for the front tank and then move the tank inboard toward the driveshaft enough that you can work with the brake line. I didn't say drop the tank. I'm thinking of using a transmission jack or even a couple of ratchet straps to hold the tank up.

 

[cardana24]

I got the brake lines finished up. I also installed a new master cylinder just because. Also installed new rotors/calipers/pads on the front. The truck moved under its own power for the first time in almost 6 years, it was a great feeling! I still need to bleed the brakes more and time the injection pump but things are moving in the right direction.

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[cardana24]

I got a chance to mess with the pump timing over the weekend. When I installed the pump with the engine out I set the timing just slightly advanced from the factory marks. When I checked the timing at 2k rpm it was around 6.5 degrees, I marked that position with white out. So I advanced it one more time and went a little too far around 10.5 so I back it off a little and it seems to be pretty close to 8.5 degrees at 2k rpm.

The one thing I need to take car of before actually road testing the truck is bleeding the brakes more. I thought I got them good but they are still spongy. Any places that air gets trapped on these? I bench blead the master before I put in on then I blead in this order: rr, lr, rabs, fr, fl. Am I missing something?

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[cre1992]

What's up with the interesting cowl inlet duct by the master cylinder?

 

[jrollf]

I got a chance to mess with the pump timing over the weekend. When I installed the pump with the engine out I set the timing just slightly advanced from the factory marks. When I checked the timing at 2k rpm it was around 6.5 degrees, I marked that position with white out. So I advanced it one more time and went a little too far around 10.5 so I back it off a little and it seems to be pretty close to 8.5 degrees at 2k rpm.

The one thing I need to take car of before actually road testing the truck is bleeding the brakes more. I thought I got them good but they are still spongy. Any places that air gets trapped on these? I bench blead the master before I put in on then I blead in this order: rr, lr, rabs, fr, fl. Am I missing something?

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If you rear drum brakes are not adjusted properly you'll get a spongy pedal.

1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually
7.3L IDIT with a Banks Sidewinder
ZF 5-spd manual transmission

 

[cardana24]

If you rear drum brakes are not adjusted properly you'll get a spongy pedal.

1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually
7.3L IDIT with a Banks Sidewinder
ZF 5-spd manual transmission

Okay thanks, I’ll check those too. I re bleed the system again two nights ago but I have not had a chance to test them out again.

 

[cardana24]

What's up with the interesting cowl inlet duct by the master cylinder?

It’s part of my intake I made years ago. It was back when a bunch of people were running the hypermax cowl induction.
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/cardana24s-air-intake-thread.42425/

 

[cardana24]

Hey guys, I got the spongy brake thing resolved. My left rear wheel cylinder was blown out, so I replaced that one and the right one for good measure, now everything in the brake hydraulic system has been replaced.

Next question, is what should my truck be making as far as boost? I got my gauges hooked up last week, and I have yet to pull a load with it, but unloaded in second and third gear when I floor it I see about 5 psi....I assume it should be making more than this, just just wanted to check with you all first. Since everything has been apart I would not be surprised if I have a boost leak. Is there a common place for boost leaks on these?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That does sound a little low, but I think that you make higher boost numbers in the higher gears. See how much you make it 4th and 5th.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Hey guys, I got the spongy brake thing resolved. My left rear wheel cylinder was blown out, so I replaced that one and the right one for good measure, now everything in the brake hydraulic system has been replaced.

Next question, is what should my truck be making as far as boost? I got my gauges hooked up last week, and I have yet to pull a load with it, but unloaded in second and third gear when I floor it I see about 5 psi....I assume it should be making more than this, just just wanted to check with you all first. Since everything has been apart I would not be surprised if I have a boost leak. Is there a common place for boost leaks on these?

Was that brake cylinder leaking?

I didn't go back and read the whole thread, you'll get 5psi of boost on a stock pump. So if you haven't turned it up/bought a hotter pump that's your max.
If you have turned it up, then exhaust side leaks are common at the up-pipe expansion joint and the Y pipe where it connects everywhere. Predominantly the up pipe. It's a pain. @IDIoit sells a nice upgrade that does not leak. And I believe @typ4 has NOS castings for sale still since our old ones only get worse and worse.

Another reason for low boost assuming all else is well is trashed turbo bearings. Mine did that, 5psi max with maxed out stock IP, and not any faster than my N/A. I was pissed! But with the intake off you could see the compressor spinning off-axis so it would never boost right.