I did not, will that help me at this point? When I was trying to put the engine in with the turbo mounted the main place I was hitting was the cowl with wastegate rod bracket. Will hammering down the pinch weld allow me to fit the up pipe with the “T” attached?
Zf5 swap and engine swap
- Thread starter cardana24
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I did not, will that help me at this point? When I was trying to put the engine in with the turbo mounted the main place I was hitting was the cowl with wastegate rod bracket. Will hammering down the pinch weld allow me to fit the up pipe with the “T” attached?
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I tend to doubt it. I always removed that from the rest of the turbo. It may take some heating to convince it to move. They can be pretty stubborn. If you haven't, remove the two studs from the exhaust manifold and use bolts to hold this to the manifold. It will give you more room to move it around. It's been long enough that I don't remember if you've mentioned these studs before.
I currently only have a propane torch, and I'm not sure if that would get anything hot enough to make headway. On the back of my manifold I do not have studs installed, I attach this "T" to the manifold with two bolts.
While fighting with my engine trying to get it in with the turbo attached I managed to dent the fuel line going from the lift pump to the fuel filter housing. So I would like to replace it. I see there is a guy on eBay that sells a rubber hose conversion line. Is that the beat option we have?
I finally got the “T” off the bottom of the up pipe. I also drilled the holes out on the turbo oil drain with a 3/8” drill bit after seeing other people suggesting this in other turbo install threads. Even after doing these things it was still a royal pita to get this thing on. I was finally able to get it by installing the oil drain where it goes in the turbo but not put the nuts on to tighten the drain until I got it stick down in the valley pan grommet. Once I got the top side turbo stuff installed I went under the truck to get the “T” put back on the up pipe. I put copper rtv on these two unions after reading other threads recommending this. I also hooked up the return line coming off the engine to the line that runs in the frame. Is it normal for these two lines to not fit against one another flush? Even with the clamp installed the lines pull away from one another as seen in the pic.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
There's nothing at all wrong with that. The plastic part of the line is pretty long so as long as as both rubber lines are on it firmly. Remember that there's no or next to no pressure in the return lines. All you're trying to do here is to get the excess fuel back to the tank with no leaks.
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So I am to the point of trying to start the truck. When I hit the switch I get nothing. I have power but the starter is not engaging. I assume this has something to do with the neutral safety switch. Where is that in these trucks and what do I need to do to make this truck crank? I currently do not have a trans installed so the old auto wiring is just dangling under the truck. I’m also using the auto column and there are a few plugs not hooked up but I think those went to the auto shifter.
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On the manual steering column there are two plugs that come to the back. The auto column only has 1, did I need to swap wiring over since I am using the auto column?
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I believe that the neutral safety switch was mounted on the side of the transmission on the C6 right by where the kickdown rod attaches. I also believe that the range selector (?) that mounts in the same spot on the E4OD has that as one of it's functions too. If you don't want to mess around with the wiring, you could either use a push button for the start or, if you can find one, use a wire that's only powered in the "start" position of the key to power the starter solenoid.
I know other people here have done this swap and used the auto column, I just assumed there was a common work around. I know I can do a push button start but I would prefer if it worked the way it was designed. I’m thinking the small plug that I show in the picture is what I am missing here. I am curious if I cloud do a bypass to get around this. I already did the bypass of the neutral safety switch but I don’t think it’s hooked to the ignition at this point so I don’t really think it matters.
I’m thinking this might be the neutral switch in the auto column. I am thinking I will tape the plunger down and hook it up to the three pin plug pictured and see if it will start with the key. I used my engine starter to jump the starter and got the ole girl to start for the first time in 5.5 years (it says the video is too large to upload).
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Trans is bolted to the engine. I did a few other small things and then threw in the towel for the day.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
What? Like making most of the rest of us jealous by showing us how nice it is to do the work while standing underneath the lift?
What? Like making most of the rest of us jealous by showing us how nice it is to do the work while standing underneath the lift?
I rolled around on the floor for a lot of years. The small things were putting the slave cylinder and bolting the crossover pipe on. I started working on the trans cross member but I’d did not remember how all of the parts went since I took it apart years ago...hopefully tomorrow. Also what is the deal with this hole in the back of my transfer case? It looks
Like there is a beetle in there.
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I got some more done. Trans crossmember is in, rear dive shaft is installed. Fresh fluid for the trans and transfer case. Down pipe is on. Air box with cowl intake put back on. My radiator support is at a local fab shop being repaired. Also has anyone put Spicer u joints in their front drove shaft? If so what part number did you use? I swear the ones I have are too big but they are listed as fitting in rockauto.
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