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Zf5 swap and engine swap

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by cardana24, Oct 27, 2020.

  1. cardana24

    cardana24 Full Access Member

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    So I got the exhaust manifolds on and then mounted the turbo. But I have a question about the valley pan hole where the turbo breather goes in. It seems I may have the wrong grommet in my valley pan because there is a gap. Did I do something wrong? Purchase the wrong valley pan kit? Can I just run a bead of silicone/rtv to seal the gap? What would you do? Here are a few pics of what I’m talking about, the second pic is of the original turbo showing a taller grommet.
    0B3B68A6-4CD6-4592-B54E-C2A0E6C6927C.jpeg 73EE6C87-16FB-4B63-867A-07B3D059AF3F.jpeg B8F44026-74A6-4E94-9726-7557F1017C0A.jpeg
     
  2. Philip1

    Philip1 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Its likely fine so long as the oil drain sticks in the grommet. A bead of silicone will not hurt anything either just to make sure it doesn't leak
     
  3. cardana24

    cardana24 Full Access Member

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    I double checked the part number of the valley pan I got and it’s the one felpro lists for the turbo truck, not sure why the grommet is different. I guess I’ll put some rtv around it and keep pushing forward.
     
  4. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    I think these are a one size fits all application. I believe that they all come with the same grommet since there was a very small percentage of trucks/engines that actually came with the Factory Turbo option. It's also possible that Fel-Pro doesn't know that there's a difference. I believe that Russ has the correct grommets. At least he did at one time. Don't leave the gap there. At the least, fill it with RTV. I think that you'd be making a messy oil leak for your self if you don't. I think that oil would/could splash back out of the gap. If not, the crankcase gasses would definitely come out of that gap. If you haven't make a hole/s in the valley pan underneath that grommet to help with oil drain back. I had one that wouldn't keep the oil from leaking here no matter what I did until I made that hole. After that, I put a hole in every valley pan on a turbocharged engine. The newer ones are supposed drain better than the older ones like were available back in the late 90's, but I say why take a chance?
     
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  5. steve phillips

    steve phillips Full Access Member

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    type 4 on here has the correct grommets. if you send me your email i can send you a service manual. i also have the turbo supplement.
     
  6. cardana24

    cardana24 Full Access Member

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    Thanks for the info Steve. I’ll send you a message with my email.
     
  7. cardana24

    cardana24 Full Access Member

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    I did some searching and found that some people had good luck with using a dorman pvc grommet made for a Chrysler. So I got one, everything looks pretty good.

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  8. cardana24

    cardana24 Full Access Member

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    I also drilled my left side manifold for my egt probe. I hooked up some of the wiring harness I am hoping to at least have the engine back in the engine bay in a few days. I need to take the engine off of the stand and put the flywheel and clutch on.

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  9. cardana24

    cardana24 Full Access Member

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    I did a few more small things on the engine then I took the engine off the stand and installed the flywheel and clutch then I tried to put the engine in the engine bay....what am I doing wrong? I cannot get the engine in the mounts. I cannot get the engine to go back far enough, I thought people install these engines with the turbo already mounted. Does anyone have some tips? Thanks guys.

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  10. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    I know that Wes said that he jacks up the cab in order to do this. That is the only way that it can be done as far as I can tell.
     
  11. cardana24

    cardana24 Full Access Member

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    I’m not looking at the truck right now but I’m not sure if I can jack the cab with the fenders on, the front is pulled off. I found some other threads where people were able to do it but it seemed like it is super tight.

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  12. TNBrett

    TNBrett Full Access Member

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    I got mine in with the factory turbo in place. I started out with the engine mounts already bolted to the engine, but no dice. I had to remove the engine mounts from the brackets and set them in the crossmember first. It was still very tight. Also worth noting is that the 4 bolts (2 per side) that connect the mounts to the bracket were different lengths from my 92NA motor, and my 93 IDIT. The longer bolts wouldn’t fit between the cross member and mount, so I used the shorter ones.


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  13. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    Either way, this is why I will not try to install an engine with a turbo already mounted on it. You run no more of a chance of a boost leak by installing the engine and then the turbo than you do when you only install a turbo in a N/A truck. I go for the easier/quicker/less work route every time. Is a boost leak possible? Sure it is, but it also is when you install the engine and turbo together. Anybody is free to agree or disagree with me.
     
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  14. cardana24

    cardana24 Full Access Member

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    Okay so the engine is in. I took the turbo off. It took about 5 minutes to put in, I fought with it for hours with the turbo in place. Now I need to put the turbo on but the “T” on the bottom of the up pipe will not drop down between the engine and fire wall. What are you all doing? It looks like there may be a slip joint where the “T” meets the up pipe but I cannot get it to move. The next spot is where the up pipe meets the turbo. What are you all doing?

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    Last edited: Dec 6, 2020
  15. hacked89

    hacked89 Full Access Member

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    Sounds like you didn't hammer out the pinch weld on the firewall?

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