Zf5 swap and engine swap
- Thread starter cardana24
- Start date
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
That is probably the one most time consuming job there is. When I did my last overhaul, I felt like I spent a week cleaning and painting parts, but only a few hours to do the reassembly.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
When I tear back into the engine in my Blue Truck, I think I'm going to go with 115-120 ft/lbs, but I'm only going to be running a modified first gen Banks on there with an intercooler. If I see 15 PSI, I will be amazed. Some people go higher, but I don't see where I'd need it.
Okay I did a final step of 115. Then I put the push rods and rocket arms back on. On the rockers you torque all of them down to 20 ft/lbs at the same time? I have set valve lash in gas engines in the past but the engine has to be rotated to the proper position before setting lash on each cylinder. I just want to make sure I have it correct. I also pulled the bb injectors off of my old turbo engine and I pulled the turbo off. More cleaning and gasket scraping . I also resealed the oil cooler and had some nice blue silicone coming out of the grate on one side, no clue how it got there but I cleaned it out. Also is there a trick to putting the cooler back together with new o-rings? I had one heck of a time trying to smash them back together and I lubricated everything. I’m still pushing forward. It feels good to have the heads back on the block, they have been off for a few years now.
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Also swapped over the oil fitting feed for the turbo. Also soaking the ends of the injectors in that treatment you all recommended.
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TNBrett
Full Access Member
I just redid my oil cooler on Saturday. I used a hydraulic press, but it’s not required. It doesn’t take a huge amount of force, but more than you can exert just pushing down on it directly with your body weight. I have done it without a press using a pipe or 2x4 as a lever. What ever you are using, take it easy. When it feels like it’s getting stuck, you are close, keep moderate pressure on it, and gently tap around the housing with a soft hammer to adjust the alignment, and it will slip right in. Oh, and just do one end at a time.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Yes. Just torque them down all at once. It's really A LOT easier to do than setting the valve lash.
Yeah I did not have a press, I ended up using my 4lb mini sledge with a piece of 2x4 on top of the end cap and then smacked it until it went on, it took a bunch of tries, but it finally went on.
does the oil cooer tube need to be aligned a specific way? On the one side I have the tab in the indented area but it is not centered in that area, just curious if I need to twist the tube to center it or if there are certain alignment marks?
The tabs are there to assist you with getting the two heads lined up for bolting on the block. The orientation of the tube on the cooler heads is irrelevant so long as it will bolt on the block.
A little more progress tonight, more parts cleaning...I can’t believe how much brake cleaner I have gone thru. Anyway, all new glow plugs. Also swapped in my set of bb injectors with new copper washers and o-rings. Also got the new valley pan installed. When doing the injectors I torques then down to what my book said, 35 ft/lb, is this what you all are using? IMO they don’t feel tight enough at 35 but I don’t want to screw anything up.
I also pulled the top off of my injection pump that I will be using...I don’t really know what I’m looking for here but it looks clean, let me know what you all think.
I also pulled the top off of my injection pump that I will be using...I don’t really know what I’m looking for here but it looks clean, let me know what you all think.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The inside of your pump looks clean from here.
How do you guys run the turbo fuel return lines with no T fittings to connect the heads? I got the kit from cdd and there are no T fittings just 4 straight fittings and 4 90s.
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I ran mine (with the r&d fuel rails) from the passenger bank teed off the ip, then to the driver bank then back to tank
