Wide-range ZF-5 poll

[ttman4]

It’s not a simple swap to put a zf6 behind an IDI

Yeah you have to build an adaptor.

 

[u2slow]

Yeah you have to build an adaptor.

IIRC it's more than that. Possibly a spacer on the crank, and some way to make the starter reach.

The jist of it is the ZF 6 bell is deeper than a ZF5 because they stopped using a thick factory spacer.

 

[chillman88]

Yeah you have to build an adaptor.

IIRC it's more than that. Possibly a spacer on the crank, and some way to make the starter reach.

The jist of it is the ZF 6 bell is deeper than a ZF5 because they stopped using a thick factory spacer.

How to put a 6 speed ZF in a 2wd IDI

Ok, I am still getting occasional requests for info on how to do this swap, so I'll make a post with all the info I can remember on how to do it. It's been almost 2 years since I did it, so please excuse anything I forget to mention. I now have about 20,000 miles on the truck with the...

www.thedieselstop.com

Just FYI because I was looking.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Watch out.....rrrrrreeeeeerrrrrreeeeeerrrrrrr ........claka claka...... Reeeeeeerrrrrrrreeeeeeerrrrrr......claka push the clutch in before I go crazy! Reeeeeeerrrrrrrreeeeeeerrrrrr!!!!!

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Another thing to remember is that they changed the gear ratios for the later diesel ZF5s (the zf5-S47), and sort of split the difference between the earlier close ratio and the wide ratio. Depending on your preferences it might be better to get an S47 transmission.

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Looks like the easiest way to the promised land is the S5-47 close ratio. Significantly lower 1st and reverse and 2nd is a little lower to boot. With my 3.55 gearset and 33" tires that would be a great combo for what I use it for. I'll probably end up just rebuilding what I have since I already have the kit...but until then I can dream and do a little research.

 

[Laine D]

To me it depends on power level, gearing, tires and what you use your truck for. I hated mine with 3.55’s and anything hooked to the back. Mainly because I’d drop so far out of the power band my egts would crank up even with the turbo spooling fast. If I shift around 3k it’s not bad but I don’t feel like blowing everbody’s eardrums out when I pop the clutch

First is very nice though

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

To be honest if I knew I was gonna go with 33" tires I would never have done the 3.55's. Overall I liked 4.10's more. But I'm here now and like it enough to keep it. It was a lot of work!
But it's great on I-90 by my house. I have to take it to get anywhere, speed limit 70 for at least 14 miles to work or Costco or Home Depot, etc. It's fun to be able to get up to speed easily and cruise 75 no problem.

3k is nothing...these babies live in the upper rpm's just fine. They love RPM's! Wish mine cooled better. Stupid 7.3 non-cooling mod.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Wish mine cooled better. Stupid 7.3 non-cooling mod.

I'm not sure that actually affects the overall engine temperature when looking at a gauge. What it does is to help cool the heads down better so there's less chance of them cracking or even lifting.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Well the temp gauge is in the heads, so that's definitely something. But you rarely hear of a 6.9 cooling issue, and so far in my reading it's all fixable stuff, broken this or that and then they go back to perfect cooling. 7.3's have cooling issues stock, modified, hot ambient, cold ambient, old rad, new rad, etc. They just don't cool as well. The only difference I can see is those ports closed in the head gasket.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Well the temp gauge is in the heads, so that's definitely something.

The stock location for the temp gauge sender is in the block.

 

[ISPKI]

7.3s have cooling issues? Only time I ever had a cooling issue was when a piece of debris smashed my AC rad AND my thermostat jammed at the same time. Finally overheated sitting in 100 degree, direct sunlight idling in a parking lot for half an hour while loading up ~400 2x4s on it... Wrecker operator did not like loading that up.

 

[mexicanjoe]

Ive got a close ratio ZF5 in my '89 supercab with a 4.10 limited slip axle. I hauled a 4000 pound livestock trailer loaded with about 1,500 load on a warm day...... 70 mph all the way - the tach dancing around 2350 rpm..... because the fan clutch is defective the engine never gets above 160 degrees- but what a roar!!!! Love my old LuLUBell!!

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

The stock location for the temp gauge sender is in the block.

Well there is that lil fact, lol. So it's the idiot light that's in the head. I replaced that with my real gauge, and had another sitting around so I put that into the passenger head. Sounds like I should put one into the block and see if they read differently in some way.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Well there is that lil fact, lol. So it's the idiot light that's in the head. I replaced that with my real gauge, and had another sitting around so I put that into the passenger head. Sounds like I should put one into the block and see if they read differently in some way.

Yes. I had the aftermarket temp sender in the same location in my Bronco and the temps read higher in warmer weather and while towing. Maybe it means something, maybe it was just another engine in a different vehicle. Some people like to put their senders in the head to monitor the hottest part of their cooling system. I feel like if the block was good enough for the factory, then it's good enough for me. Of course, knowing the (lack of) accuracy in the stock gauge, my theory may be full of holes too.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I also want to add that I put the stock temp sender in the extra hole in the water pump and extended the wire to reach the new location. Again, due to the lack of accuracy in the factory gauge, I wasn't too worried about adding more resistance to the wire. I just hate to see dead factory gauges. They don't have to be accurate, just pretend to be showing something.