Wide-range ZF-5 poll

How much better is the wide-range ZF-5 vs the diesel gearing? Pick up to 2 answers.

  • I own/have driven the wide-range and I love it!

    Votes: 3 16.7%
  • I own/have driven the wide-range and it's a toss-up for me.

    Votes: 3 16.7%
  • I own/have driven the wide-range and I don't like it.

    Votes: 2 11.1%
  • I just want to vote in a poll!

    Votes: 6 33.3%
  • 'Merica!

    Votes: 8 44.4%
  • I love slushboxes!

    Votes: 1 5.6%

  • Total voters
    18

Booyah45828

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The stock gauge location on the block sees the water after it returns into the block from the cylinder head, so as long as the cooling system is full, it doesn't matter(block vs head) where the temp gauge is located, as both locations should read similarly.

I own slushboxes, so my opinion of gas zf being better then the diesel is strictly due to the complaints about of the bad reverse ratio I see from people towing with the standard diesel zf.
 

IDIBRONCO

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the complaints about of the bad reverse ratio I see from people towing with the standard diesel zf.
That's definitely a thing. It's also why so many of us with the capability to do so use 2 lo for backing up, especially with a trailer.
 

KansasIDI

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Well the temp gauge is in the heads, so that's definitely something. But you rarely hear of a 6.9 cooling issue, and so far in my reading it's all fixable stuff, broken this or that and then they go back to perfect cooling. 7.3's have cooling issues stock, modified, hot ambient, cold ambient, old rad, new rad, etc. They just don't cool as well. The only difference I can see is those ports closed in the head gasket.

I must be one of the people with a rare cooling problem. I bypassed my heater core after I blew a hole in it. More dirt came out than coolant. Now it just takes longer to get hot. Still gets hot though. Have flushed rad, and blown and washed out the fins. Replaced thermostat, and water pump. Fan clutch works. I don’t know what the deal is…
 

The_Josh_Bear

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I must be one of the people with a rare cooling problem. I bypassed my heater core after I blew a hole in it. More dirt came out than coolant. Now it just takes longer to get hot. Still gets hot though. Have flushed rad, and blown and washed out the fins. Replaced thermostat, and water pump. Fan clutch works. I don’t know what the deal is…
Have a real temp gauge? What's the too hot temp?
 

KansasIDI

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230-240*. Anything over 200 scares me, my dad has always had Cummins and they can’t take that heat.
 

hacked89

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230-240*. Anything over 200 scares me, my dad has always had Cummins and they can’t take that heat.
230 is ~ safe top. If that is an accurate temp something is fundamentally wrong. The only time I was able to get one of these that hot was when there was zero coolant flow. I bet the guys that tow heavy maybe could see 220 on a long pass hot summer day but it’s hard to heat these up.
 

KansasIDI

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Brand new motorcraft thermostat, not installed upside down. New water pump. I know my fan clutch works. I flushed my radiator, and blew it out, but I should probably replace it.
 

KansasIDI

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I advanced my IP timing not very long ago. Banked it to the passenger side.
 

KansasIDI

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Probably gonna buy Champion Cooling’s Monster 4 core. $400 for that and $50 for a new heater core.
 

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