Ujoints

[Cant Write]

I agree with black dawg on the shaft balance though, especially since the rubber in that damper really doesn't look healthy.

James

I spoke with the driveline shop today, and they said they have removed them in the past and rebalanced the whole thing......

I’m now wondering if I should replace the front one instead of leaving it. Vs taking it to them and having them replace the Ujoint with an unknown or cheap brand....?

 

[u2slow]

Lose the damper thing. They often rattle off the Cummins trucks equipped with it. Have it balanced. Stop worrying about a ujoint brand, so long as its greasable.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

If it were me, I would find a slip yoke without the damper and install it. Try it out, if the vibration is gone then it was most likely the damper had moved.
If it still vibrates then you can have the shaft balanced. Either way the problematic damper will be gone.

James

 

[Nero]

Driveline shops will install your preferred brand u joint if you ask. Me personally I'd have them balance it.

 

[Cant Write]

Sounds good, Friday is dedicated to my boiler. But I think Monday I can run it up to GJ and drop it off.

Will report back. Thanks all!!

 

[typ4]

If the shaft is out and you are changing a joint, and the others are unknown age, change them all

 

[Cant Write]

will change the front. And also grabbing a magnetic base and gauge to check run-out.

Plan to check in the middle of the driveshaft, or should I check at the ends, or all places?

What tolerance is acceptable?

Want to be armed with knowledge before I head North 2 hours.

 

[Black dawg]

will change the front. And also grabbing a magnetic base and gauge to check run-out.

Plan to check in the middle of the driveshaft, or should I check at the ends, or all places?

What tolerance is acceptable?

Want to be armed with knowledge before I head North 2 hours.

A factory shaft might have lots of runout, but being made out of a relatively light material can still be balanced acceptably. When I build my own shafts, I shoot for 5 or under.

The hose clamp trick is just what you described. Do one end moving 1/4 turn to where it makes the vibration the least, then small movements either way to fine tune. Then do the other end. Might be one end, might be both, might need 2 hose clamps at one end.

 

[Cant Write]

Front Ujoint changed and one “set” hit with a hammer on a drift and this happens.....***

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The wife gives me grief for keeping junk around, well I happened to keep the G-rings from removal of the rear shaft cause the front used a thicker ring to make up the difference on a crappy u joint. 0.0585 measured thickness which matched the “normal” ones I’m used to seeing.

Cleaned up on the wire wheel and changed the snap ring.

Shaft reinstalled and it changed the speed of my vibration. So I know/think it’s the shaft. I can start to feel it at 65 now.

It’s prolly not worth the time to check run-out. I’m not going too, just gonna yank it and drive it to the driveline shop on Monday or Tuesday. (2-hr) drive one way.

 

[Cant Write]

Driveline Services in Grand Junction CO called and said my drive-shaft is done. Said it was out of balance and they removed the damper. Ran up this morning and happy to report I can now run interstate speeds!! No vibes up to 75 mph at least.

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Cost me $40 in fuel (2-RT’s) and 1 bill at their shop. Vibe free ...... PRICELESS!!

 

[Dirtleg]

Driveline Services in Grand Junction CO called and said my drive-shaft is done. Said it was out of balance and they removed the damper. Ran up this morning and happy to report I can now run interstate speeds!! No vibes up to 75 mph at least.

You must be registered for see images attach

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Cost me $40 in fuel (2-RT’s) and 1 bill at their shop. Vibe free ...... PRICELESS!!

Excellent result. As was mentioned earlier, damper looked suspect. Just read it all right now. Glad you found a solution..

 

[Cant Write]

Me too!!! Now I am on to air intrusion issues with a little bit of drain back sprinkled in

 

[Dirtleg]

Me too!!! Now I am on to air intrusion issues with a little bit of drain back sprinkled in

Best advice I can offer after 16 years of fighting this issue. Find a level place to park. The o-ring injector caps are, and have been garbage for 2 decades now. I finally gave up and now only chase the actual fuel leaks. Air intrusion is minimal on level ground.

 

[Cant Write]

All right, just did 2465 miles. Driveshaft was vibration free up to 80 mph under cruise and acceleration conditions.

Although I could feel a slight high frequency vibration at high rpm coasting down hills.

Would that be pinion bearing or angle?

 

[u2slow]

Although I could feel a slight high frequency vibration at high rpm coasting down hills.

Would that be pinion bearing or angle?

IME, pinion bearings whine on impending failure long before they vibrate. I've also run ujoints at less than optimal angles without any perceived vibration.

Are your tires and wheel-balancing perfect? How's the rubber in your driveshaft support bearing?