Throttle Cable Woes

Max Mini

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The pedal is mounted to a metal tube. That metal tube goes up a little ways, into the bracket it pivots on, and up another couple inches. At the very top there is a slot/hole the cable is supposed to sit in.

Thank you! That's exactly what had me confused, that and the fact that I was expecting it to work pretty much backwards of how it seems to work.
 

Max Mini

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What you can do, is go under the dash where the cable goes through the pedal and pull the pedal towards you. A length of cable will stick out and you can tie small zipties behind the round cable end, shortening the total length of the cable.

Going back to this zip tie idea, it seems that might be easier than cutting it because if I cut it, I would either have to come up with a new end piece to put on there or else come up with a way to attach the two cut ends to each other. The only question I have is, when you say "the round cable end," are you talking about where it connects to the pedal? I have to get in there and explore a bit more but I just want to know what I'm looking for.
 

Thewespaul

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Zip ties under the round piece at the end of the cable. I circled it here
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Selahdoor

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Oops, yeah, I guess I did say I couldn't do it, you got me there! Well, not without some instruction, I guess.

It's actually the shop that told me it's not adjustable. They said some come with an adjustment built in, but this one did not. That's what I'm saying.

Anyway, when I mentioned the kit, I wasn't really committing to doing it myself, I was just asking if, whether it's me or the shop or whoever, that might be a better way to go.

Phew. I wasn't really thinking I was gonna have to think so hard about everything I type here. If I'd known about the scrutiny I guess I would have been more careful choosing my words. The truth is I don't know what I'm capable of or not capable of. I know there are many things I'd give an immediate "NO" to - I just don't even feel like it makes sense to try to wrap my head around them. I'm not doing my own brake job or putting in a transmission, for example. This seems like a fairly easy task, so MAYBE I could do it. Not really sure either way, but the one thing I can say is that I DON'T KNOW HOW to do it.
I'm sorry that I made you feel under scrutiny.

We don't all communicate the same way. What you were saying, was confusing. At least to me.

What I was doing, was trying to refine what you really needed to know, by drawing more information out of you.

The easiest way to do that is to repeat the things that you have said, that made it confusing for me. And try to show why it was confusing.

Then we could get down to what it was that you actually needed.

Which, with some excellent help from Cubey and Chillman And Wes, we finally did! Yay! :)
 

Max Mini

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The problem with OEM part numbers is they sometimes change a lot over the span of 25-35 years. So really, all of those are the OEM part number, in theory anyway. If you cross reference the first number I cited above (E8UZ-9A758-D) you will find this:

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Source: http://www.kakapart.com/oem/partscrossinterchange/ford-e8uz9a758a.html

So... I noticed on the list you attached that only the ATP psrt says "direct exchange" next to it and all the others say "indirect exchange." Does that mean what it sounds like it means - that only the ATP is really the right one?
 

Max Mini

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I'm sorry that I made you feel under scrutiny.

No worries, I know everyone is trying to help! For me, I can't really tell if it's something I can try doing myself until I know exactly what it is I'm supposed to be doing, and when I followed the first set of instructions - to pull the pedal toward me - I got confused because that didn't really reveal anything. Not even knowing what the cable is supposed to look like installed (I saw it in the package but most of that is hidden from view when it's installed) raised more questions for me. I know it's hard explaining things to someone with no frame of reference at all, believe me. But I think I get it now - will probably give the zip tie method a try.
 

Cubey

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So... I noticed on the list you attached that only the ATP psrt says "direct exchange" next to it and all the others say "indirect exchange." Does that mean what it sounds like it means - that only the ATP is really the right one?

I don't know. Possisbly? But it's listed as 44.5", same as the Pioneer one, and it says it fits my 85 too. They look slightly different though, at least if the pictures are accurate. It might be they messed up and put direct instead of indirect on the site too.

Pioneer's and Napa's have a greenish plastic bit at the pedal and a nut near the sheath end. Also, the spring end has a hole through the plastic bit towards the end.
http://atpautomotive.com/cables/accelerator-cable-y-289
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6101442

ATP has a black plastic bit, no nut, and the spring end has a metal bit sticking out of the end of the plastic. The one review on Amazon says they have a 91 7.3 and it was 1/4" too long but still worked fine for them:
https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Automotive-Y-289-Accelerator-Cable/dp/B000C8NWMS#customerReviews

The ATP site shows the same product with the metal sticking out:
http://atpautomotive.com/accelerator-cable-y-289

Maybe it's just a difference in how they attach for patent reasons.
 
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Cubey

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No worries, I know everyone is trying to help! For me, I can't really tell if it's something I can try doing myself until I know exactly what it is I'm supposed to be doing, and when I followed the first set of instructions - to pull the pedal toward me - I got confused because that didn't really reveal anything. Not even knowing what the cable is supposed to look like installed (I saw it in the package but most of that is hidden from view when it's installed) raised more questions for me. I know it's hard explaining things to someone with no frame of reference at all, believe me. But I think I get it now - will probably give the zip tie method a try.

Looking in my Haynes manual for my 87 F250 (don't have the van one) it doesn't have a section about the accelerator cable. In the automatic transmission section regarding the kickdown cable, it does show it in a diagram and I think casually mentions it once. That's it. It has zero instructions for it. I guess they figured it should be obvious enough that it shouldn't need instructions.
 

Cubey

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I found the right part number, I think: E8UZ-9A758-D

This page lists it as being for 87-89 E350 with a 6.9. I don't see why it fit a 91 with a 7.3? Same (basic) engine, same body. Unless they changed the throttle pedal after 89?

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-cable-assy-throttle-control_e8uz-9a758-d.html

Here is one on ebay, but it's $89.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/throttle-c...440995?hash=item1a7b0a95e3:g:RQIAAOSwK6RZLwuT

Yep, I'm 99.9% sure that one is the right OEM cable for you.

Check this out. This is for 6.9 E250 and 350 6.9. It should be the same for a 91 E250 and E350 7.3, I would imagine.

Note the part number of the cable assembly it shows, 9A758:

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Now let's look back to that interchange list:

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That part number is interchagable for the Pioneer and ATP ones:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5898654&cc=1117448&jsn=9
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=65247&cc=1117448&jsn=8

And those are the ones that fit a 91 E350 7.3: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...iesel,1117448,interior,accelerator+cable,5892

We know that part on ebay is for 87-89 6.9 E350 vans and an 87-89 calls for the same ATP and Pioneer cables for your 91, so I seriously see no reason why it wouldn't fit.

You might try submitting a best offer to that ebay seller if you really want an OEM cable since they are accepting them. And no, I'm not the seller. I'd be keeping that thing as a backup if I had it. LOL
 
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Max Mini

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Yep, I'm 99.9% sure that one is the right OEM cable for you.

Check this out. This is for 6.9 E250 and 350 6.9. It should be the same for a 91 E250 and E350 7.3, I would imagine.

Note the part number of the cable assembly it shows, 9A758:

You must be registered for see images attach


Now let's look back to that interchange list:

You must be registered for see images attach



That part number is interchagable for the Pioneer and ATP ones:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5898654&cc=1117448&jsn=9
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=65247&cc=1117448&jsn=8

And those are the ones that fit a 91 E350 7.3: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...iesel,1117448,interior,accelerator+cable,5892

We know that part on ebay is for 87-89 6.9 E350 vans and an 87-89 calls for the same ATP and Pioneer cables for your 91, so I seriously see no reason why it wouldn't fit.

You might try submitting a best offer to that ebay seller if you really want an OEM cable since they are accepting them. And no, I'm not the seller. I'd be keeping that thing as a backup if I had it. LOL

Thanks, I think I will submit an offer!
 

IDIBRONCO

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I know that I'm a little bit late here, but if your current cable almost opens the throttle all the way but not quite, you may be able to bend the mounting bracket toward the back of the engine a little bit and take some of the slack out of your cable this way. This would be the bracket that attaches to your intake manifold underneath the hood. It's not easy to reach, but you'll have to reach it in order to replace the cable. Also, while you're in there, check to make sure that your cable is attached to this bracket right now. I'm not bad mouthing the shop that did the work. These are not easy to get to on a van and it's possible that whoever replaced the cable thought that they had it installed properly, but really didn't.
 

Cubey

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Also, while you're in there, check to make sure that your cable is attached to this bracket right now. I'm not bad mouthing the shop that did the work. These are not easy to get to on a van and it's possible that whoever replaced the cable thought that they had it installed properly, but really didn't.

Oh, yes. On my 87 F250, when boredly driving in Texas on a back highway, I turned on cruise and was fiddling with it even though I know it has vacuum issues or whatever. Eh, it was something to do to pass the time. For some reason. it caused the throttle cable to come out of the bracket. I was still able to accelerate but it was missing a lot of travel. I think the pedal felt weird too but I can't remember for sure. It was limited to about 45-50mph. I threw on my hazards and kept going. The shoulder of a 70mph 2 lane highway is best avoided if possible! Thankfully I came up on a town right away (probably why I kept going, hooray for town distances signs) where I was able to pull over into a closed down gas station to put it back in. I disconnected the cruise cable at the same time, just in case cruise ever accidentally got turned on and set.

I think it might have popped out once a while before that on it's own, after I wrapped it in electrical tape to protect it from contacting the glow pug relay, behind the CDR. I think it came out when I was lifting it up to wrap it and I didn't quite put it back in correctly.
 

Max Mini

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I know that I'm a little bit late here, but if your current cable almost opens the throttle all the way but not quite, you may be able to bend the mounting bracket toward the back of the engine a little bit and take some of the slack out of your cable this way. This would be the bracket that attaches to your intake manifold underneath the hood. It's not easy to reach, but you'll have to reach it in order to replace the cable. Also, while you're in there, check to make sure that your cable is attached to this bracket right now. I'm not bad mouthing the shop that did the work. These are not easy to get to on a van and it's possible that whoever replaced the cable thought that they had it installed properly, but really didn't.
Thanks, I will check it out!
 
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