chillman88
Full Access Member
I think it probably has more to do with age than anything, mine only leaks from the drain plug, regardless of what type of sealing washer I use. It's frustrating!
Rotella 15w40 vs Rotella 15w40 Full Synthetic
I think it probably has more to do with age than anything, mine only leaks from the drain plug, regardless of what type of sealing washer I use. It's frustrating!
wrecked
Full Access Member
It's bad threads old bean. Try some phlon.
wrecked
Full Access Member
If it stops helicoil it.
wrecked
Full Access Member
Or buy more oil and cat litter...
chillman88
Full Access Member
The threads "shouldn't" matter with the sealing washer between the pan and bolt. It gets tight enough to compress it. I don't know really, just ignored it. Driveway is gravel 
I guess it wouldn't hurt to look at it a little closer though. Would be nice to fix it.....
I guess it wouldn't hurt to look at it a little closer though. Would be nice to fix it.....
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
That's funny, cause my leaks "went away" once I started parking on gravel!!!The threads "shouldn't" matter with the sealing washer between the pan and bolt. It gets tight enough to compress it. I don't know really, just ignored it. Driveway is gravel
I guess it wouldn't hurt to look at it a little closer though. Would be nice to fix it.....
As for the synthetic if you have the cash, do it. Other than money they don't have a downside that I know of, and keep engines way cleaner. As said the black part is gonna happen quickly anyhow. I've heard a quality on-board centrifuge will actually keep the oil amber because it can get the soot out. But I haven't seen it myself.
Joseph Davis
Full Access Member
Most likely from somewhere else, mine will leak from oil filter and blow over to oil pan then down to the plug; when it time to change the oil. Mine Holds 12 Quarts with the Motor Craft 1995 filter and a 1 quart oil-cooler. I think the IDI need good blood to make the run more reliable.
u2slow
bilge rat
The threads "shouldn't" matter with the sealing washer between the pan and bolt. It gets tight enough to compress it. I don't know really, just ignored it. Driveway is gravel
I guess it wouldn't hurt to look at it a little closer though. Would be nice to fix it.....
The GF's Jeep uses a pan plug with a molded-on rubber washer... that tears after a couple of oil changes.
Instead of replacing it over and over, I put a small smear of Ultra-Black RTV under the head of the plug each time. No leaks.
John Preston
Registered User
I recently bought 3 gallons of shell rotella synthetic 15w-40 on sale for $60. I wanted Chevron or cenex sae 30 but couldn't find it. Unfortantely an oil pressure Gage I Jerry rigged from a tractor started leaking so I lost most of it so I guess it wasn't meant to be. I just refilled it with fleet farm 30 diesel oil and it's happy. At first I thought the expensive oil took out my rear seal so I was adding f&f B4 I figured it out so my expensive oil prably isn't much left.
Jim993
Registered User
I used to use Rotella 15W-40 but switched to Mobil 1 5W-40 full synthetic a few thousand miles ago. My "new" engine (40,000 miles on it) uses less Mobil 1 5W-40 full synthetic than it used Rotella 15W-40.
A good diesel oil keeps the very small soot particles in suspension so that they can be drained out at every oil change. Getting black is a good thing.
A good diesel oil keeps the very small soot particles in suspension so that they can be drained out at every oil change. Getting black is a good thing.
u2slow
bilge rat
The ability to hold the soot in suspension is a major part of the spec for diesel oils. There's a saturation point though - comes sooner on an older/tired or hard-working engine.
420Bullnose
Registered User
I've had Great luck with Rotella T6 15W-40, it stays "clean" the longest and have less of an issue with consumption.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
To go along with that. Imo, how fast the oil gets black is more of a indication of engine condition, than quality of oil. (To an extent)
If it's getting black right off the bat with every change, you likely have a higher amount of blowby.
Most would be amazed how fast the oil goes black on a heui powerstroke. Thats mainly because the heui system still holds probably a gallon of oil, which which get cycled out on first start-up after changing the oil.
Also engines with egr dirty it pretty quick. Our 10 jetta tdi would get dark in a few hundred miles. Once I switched to lubrication engineers synthetic, after a couple changes it would take longer to get dark. So evidently it was cleaning out the engine.
Have also seen some before and after with people running royal purple. Slowly cleaning out deposits in the valvecover/cylinder head.
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you might check if that Mobile 1 meets Diesel oil requirements, specifically Ford’s spec.
I'm a big fan of Amsoil. I know it is expensive but so is a rebuild. If you get a chance check out the YouTube channel Project Farm. He tests a ton of different oils and he breaks down the additive package as well as film strength and ABN for those oils. He's not sponsored by anyone so it is an excellent source of unbiased product tests.
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