Rotella 15w40 vs Rotella 15w40 Full Synthetic
Jason578434
Registered User
Jason578434
Registered User
You Should Use ONLY Ford motor craft 15w 40 in the summer and 10w 40 in the winter. Just my Opinion.
You can use 15w 40 in the winter too but 10w helps with cold starts and runs smoother.
You can use 15w 40 in the winter too but 10w helps with cold starts and runs smoother.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Only motorcraft oil...... lol
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Black dawg
Registered User
It was my thought that the rings were getting cleaned up. This is on 4 or 5 different vehicles, gas and diesel. 2 where tbi 350 motors that used a quart every 2000 or so, nothing really to worry about, but after about a year they would go almost 3k before needing a quart. Oil would stay cleaner looking longer at this point too. both with 5k oil changes on the syn 5/40.
Another was a vortec 4.3 s10 that would use a quart at about 3k, it will go 5k now and the oil stays much cleaner......have ran this one as far as 10k between changes...…..with surprisingly clean looking oil.
Another was a 6.5 with 110k on it that would use a quart every 500 (pretty disappointing considering the low miles and how clean the truck was). Oil changes were obviously neglected in this one, and after the first year and about 15k, oil consumption was about a quart per 1500, and after the second year and another 15k oil consumption was about a quart per 2000.....oil was always black in this one.
Fredrickson
Full Access Member
In the winter in places where it's colder.., What is the biggest stress point of a cold, slow rotating engine with high viscosity oil making the "Ruhr--Ruhr---Ruhr" vs an engine with easier flowing oil, making the "chi-chi-chi-chi"?
If someone was to use 15w40 vs a lower viscosity oil, say 5w40
(Aside from potential wear associated with delayed oiling..)
Is the burden mostly on the starter? Trying to rotate the engine with resistance starting at the oil pump passing through all the other rotating assemblies?
Or Is it where the gear on the crank where it meets the oil pump drive gear?
Can anything snap/break/warp due to the oil being too thick?
If someone was to use 15w40 vs a lower viscosity oil, say 5w40
(Aside from potential wear associated with delayed oiling..)
Is the burden mostly on the starter? Trying to rotate the engine with resistance starting at the oil pump passing through all the other rotating assemblies?
Or Is it where the gear on the crank where it meets the oil pump drive gear?
Can anything snap/break/warp due to the oil being too thick?
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
Fredrickson, on some engines the oil pump was turned by a long shaft from the bottom of the distributor, and that shaft could snap if the oil got too stiff. Maybe that was the Dodge 316? On our IDIs, the oil pump is turned by a robust looking gear, and we probably don't have to worry about anything breaking. We don't want delayed oiling, and if the engine turns too slow it just won't start.
That 5W-40 makes a huge difference when the temperature drops. So does a 150W heat patch on the oil pan!
That 5W-40 makes a huge difference when the temperature drops. So does a 150W heat patch on the oil pan!
stick_witch
Full Access Member
I personally run 15w-40 t4 dino in the summer and right now I have 5w-40 t6 synthetic and a quart of Marvel Mystery in for the winter. Nearly 1000 miles and absolutely no drop in oil level. If you have an average winter temp around <40*f the 5w-40 is great stuff, really helps get things lubricated and turning, and runs nicely all the way up to temp. Wouldn’t hesitate to use it in mild summer climates as well. I’m sure the 15w-40 t6 is great stuff as well.
As far as turning it black, I think that depends on a whole lot more than just which oil you use. A lot of oil likes to linger in the valvetrain, oil pump, oil cooler, etc. so as soon as you churn it up with any new oil you’re gonna have oil that appears black, but you can tell if it’s saturated or not, it’ll get a whole lot darker and saturated towards the end of your oil change interval. Also, the more worn your engine is the more soot it will produce, making any oil you put in it turn black quickly.
Diesels, by nature produce a lot of soot, and if the engine has never run synthetic or oil additive, or been cleaned/rebuilt, or neglected by running saturated oil in it for too long, theres a good chance there is soot buildup and as soon as you run synthetic for the first time its going to start breaking down the sludge and deposits, which will turn the oil black rather quickly, potentially faster than dino oil the first time you use it. But as Jasper said, if you keep running synthetic every interval, it’ll get cleaner and cleaner over time. This is why guys complain about synthetic making their rigs leak, because it cleans out the soot buildup left by previous, sooty oil in the voids of bad gaskets and seals and gives the illusion that their truck doesn’t have leaks until they ran synthetic, when in reality, those leaks were already present, just clogged with soot/sludge.
My recommendation is to not worry that much about black oil, 99% of the time your oil is going to be some shade of black, unless your motor is fresh, and even then, its still a diesel, it’s gonna have black blood. If you have the money, synthetic all the way! Cleans and lubricates nicely, and can hold soot in suspension better than dino oil without breaking down, giving you better longevity, but I wouldn’t say it’s significant. Definitely don’t expect to go 20,000 miles on synthetic in these things, just replace your oil at the same 3000-5000 mile interval. Some guys do oil analysis and can get away with it, but for the average Joe, just do your engine a favor and change the oil. But, just be prepared that if you use synthetic you’ll be cleaning the motor, which is great and you should, but if you have any failing gaskets it will find them eventually. It won’t ruin gaskets and seals, but just unmask bad ones.
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As far as turning it black, I think that depends on a whole lot more than just which oil you use. A lot of oil likes to linger in the valvetrain, oil pump, oil cooler, etc. so as soon as you churn it up with any new oil you’re gonna have oil that appears black, but you can tell if it’s saturated or not, it’ll get a whole lot darker and saturated towards the end of your oil change interval. Also, the more worn your engine is the more soot it will produce, making any oil you put in it turn black quickly.
Diesels, by nature produce a lot of soot, and if the engine has never run synthetic or oil additive, or been cleaned/rebuilt, or neglected by running saturated oil in it for too long, theres a good chance there is soot buildup and as soon as you run synthetic for the first time its going to start breaking down the sludge and deposits, which will turn the oil black rather quickly, potentially faster than dino oil the first time you use it. But as Jasper said, if you keep running synthetic every interval, it’ll get cleaner and cleaner over time. This is why guys complain about synthetic making their rigs leak, because it cleans out the soot buildup left by previous, sooty oil in the voids of bad gaskets and seals and gives the illusion that their truck doesn’t have leaks until they ran synthetic, when in reality, those leaks were already present, just clogged with soot/sludge.
My recommendation is to not worry that much about black oil, 99% of the time your oil is going to be some shade of black, unless your motor is fresh, and even then, its still a diesel, it’s gonna have black blood. If you have the money, synthetic all the way! Cleans and lubricates nicely, and can hold soot in suspension better than dino oil without breaking down, giving you better longevity, but I wouldn’t say it’s significant. Definitely don’t expect to go 20,000 miles on synthetic in these things, just replace your oil at the same 3000-5000 mile interval. Some guys do oil analysis and can get away with it, but for the average Joe, just do your engine a favor and change the oil. But, just be prepared that if you use synthetic you’ll be cleaning the motor, which is great and you should, but if you have any failing gaskets it will find them eventually. It won’t ruin gaskets and seals, but just unmask bad ones.
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CBRF3
Full Access Member
you guys may roast me on this but i am a delo 400 oil guy and had issues with rotella in my IDI's oil consumption and well turbo coking and not the turbine wheel the internals had coking due to the heat and the drain tube from turbo was getting nasty with free carbon / laquers on 3000-5000 mile oil changes under hard towing 1 day I decided to try another oil and holy crap it is good and cheap also https://www.walmart.com/ip/15W40-Fu...gine-Oil-5-Gallon-Pail-18L-4-75-GAL/848072546
Sinopec 15W40 Full Synthetic Diesel Engine Oil
http://english.sinolube.com/content/details15_570.html
Sinopec 15W40 Full Synthetic Diesel Engine Oil
http://english.sinolube.com/content/details15_570.html
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CBRF3
Full Access Member
all i can say is so far that Sinopec tulux T700 15w-40 diesel oil is really really good oil had very good experience with it less issues than i had before and I have since coverted my entire fleet both gasoline and diesel over to it been having issues with my older diesels and the newwer iteration of the rotella and delo when they went to the CK4 standard they removed alot of testing parameters that CJ4 had to meet. This is why many diesel engine makers had to remove warranty if specific brands were used because that oil testing procedure was skipped when they went from CJ4 to CK4 testing methods for that brand of oil and alot of the upper valve train and cam areas were being destroyed because of it add to it damage to the piston / rings and cylinder walls.
CK4 testing methods are different than CJ4 and they skipped alot of the testing areas and procedures used in the CJ4 spec so this left a gap that our IDI engines fell into that was hurting our motors by theyre design they needed other additive packages and flow characteristics and such that the CK4 standard doesnt require a few oil manufacturers still added those standards but many did not and instead only did the required testing for spec and relied on theyre name brand not theyre quality / testing procedures.
also CK4 reduced Zinc and many other oil additives our engines need to prevent ring sticking and well other major issues so finding a oil that still adds the same testing of CJ4 for the areas CK4 left out is crucial as this tells us whether our engines will be hurt or be fine longterm and Sinopec TULUX T700 checks those boxes I spent a long time before to get that info sinopec is made by Chevron in the USA same company that makes the Delo.
CK4 testing methods are different than CJ4 and they skipped alot of the testing areas and procedures used in the CJ4 spec so this left a gap that our IDI engines fell into that was hurting our motors by theyre design they needed other additive packages and flow characteristics and such that the CK4 standard doesnt require a few oil manufacturers still added those standards but many did not and instead only did the required testing for spec and relied on theyre name brand not theyre quality / testing procedures.
also CK4 reduced Zinc and many other oil additives our engines need to prevent ring sticking and well other major issues so finding a oil that still adds the same testing of CJ4 for the areas CK4 left out is crucial as this tells us whether our engines will be hurt or be fine longterm and Sinopec TULUX T700 checks those boxes I spent a long time before to get that info sinopec is made by Chevron in the USA same company that makes the Delo.
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stick_witch
Full Access Member
Hahaha I would have thought at this point the rotella vs delo debate would have been over[emoji23]. Some idi’s love the rotella, some don’t, for mysterious reasons unless someone can provide the science. Mine runs and starts great on it, I have no consumption problems or any others for that matter at all, but I’m running an NA idi, can’t say anything for your truck or you turbo guys.
Seems like the consensus is both are super similar. Delo seems to be the most dependable brand though for these trucks. I have literally heard no huge complaints about it, but also nothing saying that it’s out of this world: its oil. Whereas with with rotella there is definitely a more polarized following, some hate it and blame it for all their woes and some absolutely love it and swear that its the best thing since sliced bread. It’s also the most widely available oil, which is perhaps why it gets so much more scrutiny. Either way, I think both are widely proven and generally dependable.
Dino delo is the probably your best bet if you just want to set it and forget it, but if you live in cold or mild climates, the rotella t6 5w-40 is hard to beat as long as your truck can keep it in the crankcase and not send all out the tailpipe. Project farms did a test against delo and rotella 5w-40
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. Rotella came out as the winner. As far as 15w-40 synthetics. Try rotella t6, then try delo synthetic and see what tickles your fancy and then stick with it. Both are fine oils, and the synthetic will be very nice blood for these dirty motors. My motto with oil is just try until you find what your truck and you like best and stick with it, oil is pretty much entirely a mental thing so choose and stick with whatever oil allows you to sleep best at night.
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stick_witch
Full Access Member
How are you buying the Sinopec oil? By the barrel from their website?? Seems like good stuff
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CBRF3
Full Access Member
walmart.com shipped to my door within 2-4 days i was buying the 5 gallon buckets then ordered a 55 gallon drum last time ( had sent to store to avoid shipping fees ) and had to go to the store to get it went to the truck loading dock and they put it in back of my truck with a fork lift in and out on my way home from work on the way home a simple 15 minute stop to get it loaded and out the door heading home with my 55 gallon drum of it.
https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=siniopec tulux T700
stick_witch
Full Access Member
Thats a killer deal! Synthetic oil change for a total of $43 with a spare gallon and a half! Might need to run that in the summer. Then I can be running synthetic year round! Wish I could just buy a barrel and use it all year round, but i really like the 5w-40 for winter up here in AK.
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stick_witch
Full Access Member
All i can say @raeasler, is that this stuff might be the way to go for you if you have a walmart nearby. Nearly $10 a gallon for full synthetic
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