AndrewLinderman
Registered User
I have now pulled out my transmission out now and have a clutch and flywheel on the way. I am wondering if you guys have any tips for putting it all in to make it easier
Replacing clutch and flywheel
- Thread starter AndrewLinderman
- Start date
Bend the pinch weld near the top of the bell, transmission will go in a lot nicer. Also have the trans in gear, like 1st, it'll make it easier to align the splines of the input shaft with the friction disc. Otherwise it's pretty much reverse process of getting it out.
Also, if you have issues with the crank turning when torquing the flywheel, put a bolt in the outside area where the pressure plate bolts to, then a ratchet strap to something to prevent it from rotating.
Also, if you have issues with the crank turning when torquing the flywheel, put a bolt in the outside area where the pressure plate bolts to, then a ratchet strap to something to prevent it from rotating.
hacked89
Full Access Member
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I made two guide pins that go at the top of the bell housing and you slide the trans into them. The trans is picky with the angle and the splines lining up.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
This is a very important step.
I use two long "bolts" to help align the transmission and engine. One is a bolt, the other is a piece of 1/2" all thread with a nut welded to it. I just go a turn or two at the most. The all thread will go all the way in. I have a few bigger nots and washers for the bolt. As they get closer together, I'll back the bolt out and put another spacer on it. I do the same thing when putting an engine back in too. It's works fine, just go easy and if something doesn't seem right, back them off until you can figure out what's not right.
Austin86250
Full Access Member
might help to add it is a 4wd and factory, is it better to install with t case on or off?
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Same here. The transfer case is fairly to bench press down and back up. Well at least it is for most of us.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
I just stumbled across this thread again today.
I installed the FW and pressure plate today.
For the FW I cut the head off a longer bolt than one of the old FW bolts to use as a guide pin.
There are 8 holes drilled in the Crank, and a space not drilled.
Fly Wheel has 9 holes but one is a smaller hole that lines up with the blank one on the Crank.
In my case, the blank was at the 8 o`clock position, so 3 holes up was 12, and marked it with a sharpie. Screwed in my guide pin at 12.
My Wife helped me with the Floor Jack. Rolled it under the jacked up truck, placed the FW on the jack, and she raised it up, and after a lot of fiddling around got the pin and hole married together. then manhandled it to center it and threw in 3 of the FW Bolts to hold it.
Bought new Bolts from www.russrepair.com about $38, and come with red lock tight on them. I added a bit more, and torque them to 47 ft lbs.
The Pressure Plate did the same way with the Jack. Got the Disk and splined tool in the hole, but truck being jacked up wanted to tip back, as tool dipped down. Took quite a few tries to get the Plate lined up with the holes in the FW.
Finally got one bolt started to hold it (Yeah) then just a matter to work the plate around to find the other holes. Got 3 in, then replaced the old bolts with APR Bolts, and a dash of red Loc-tite. These torque to 25 ft lbs.
Just make sure you have the Spline tool lined up level before tightening the bolts.
To keep the FW from turning when torquing the bolts. I stuck a Phillips Screw Driver in one of the holes for the PP on the drivers side. As the the FW rotated, the SD made contact with a corner of the block. When done, remove the SD and no damage done.
Goat
I installed the FW and pressure plate today.
For the FW I cut the head off a longer bolt than one of the old FW bolts to use as a guide pin.
There are 8 holes drilled in the Crank, and a space not drilled.
Fly Wheel has 9 holes but one is a smaller hole that lines up with the blank one on the Crank.
In my case, the blank was at the 8 o`clock position, so 3 holes up was 12, and marked it with a sharpie. Screwed in my guide pin at 12.
My Wife helped me with the Floor Jack. Rolled it under the jacked up truck, placed the FW on the jack, and she raised it up, and after a lot of fiddling around got the pin and hole married together. then manhandled it to center it and threw in 3 of the FW Bolts to hold it.
Bought new Bolts from www.russrepair.com about $38, and come with red lock tight on them. I added a bit more, and torque them to 47 ft lbs.
The Pressure Plate did the same way with the Jack. Got the Disk and splined tool in the hole, but truck being jacked up wanted to tip back, as tool dipped down. Took quite a few tries to get the Plate lined up with the holes in the FW.
Finally got one bolt started to hold it (Yeah) then just a matter to work the plate around to find the other holes. Got 3 in, then replaced the old bolts with APR Bolts, and a dash of red Loc-tite. These torque to 25 ft lbs.
Just make sure you have the Spline tool lined up level before tightening the bolts.
To keep the FW from turning when torquing the bolts. I stuck a Phillips Screw Driver in one of the holes for the PP on the drivers side. As the the FW rotated, the SD made contact with a corner of the block. When done, remove the SD and no damage done.
Goat
Dbet94IDI
Registered User
Anyone got some pictures on removing the shifter from the top of the Transmission? I know it's a dumb ask but I'm in no way a Mechanic. Just an Electrician that ain't afraid to tackle hard stuff. You guys have helped me keep my old truck going over the years. I just discovered from another thread that the "shaking" I'm experiencing is the DMF coming apart. I've got my LUK SMF kit at home now. Going to get Flywheel bolts from Russ Repair. Saw someone comment that maybe get better Bearings other than what's in the kit ? Any other advice from you IDI Gurus ? And thanks in Advance!
mexicanjoe
Full Access Member
Not that hard to pull the shifter our. It is ijust 2 bolts if I remember correctly.
Kizer
Full Access Member
Just remove the shift lever/handle. Those are the two bolts Mexicanjoe is referencing.
Once you lift the "boot" off of the floor you'll see them (assuming that you're working on a ZF).
T19 has a kinda' half dome nut/retainer that has to be unscrewed, if I remember correctly.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
Those Transmissions are heavy, my T-19 is 150LBS.
Don`t know what a ZF-5 weighs but probably close to it.
Have a good Transmission Jack, I picked up a used HF one
off CL several years ago, Guy used it once for his Toyota,
then wanted it gone. Pain $85 for it, like this one.
You do need something better than the little chain supplied
with the Jack to secure it. and those 4 gizmo`s on ea corner
are a pain to adjust, be careful with it.
If you are Rambo, nothing to worry about....
Goat
Don`t know what a ZF-5 weighs but probably close to it.
Have a good Transmission Jack, I picked up a used HF one
off CL several years ago, Guy used it once for his Toyota,
then wanted it gone. Pain $85 for it, like this one.
You do need something better than the little chain supplied
with the Jack to secure it. and those 4 gizmo`s on ea corner
are a pain to adjust, be careful with it.
If you are Rambo, nothing to worry about....
Goat
Old Goat
Full Access Member
I bought Russ Repair Clutch line kit to replace the plastic line.
I sure made it easier to bleed out the air for me.
Has two separate fittings that fit into the Slave and MC, and held in with the Roll Pin just like the Plastic Line. But the Hyd line then screws onto each end.
Clutch Line Kit
For the Slave Cylinder, I removed unhooked the Strap. Put the other end in a clean container (maybe a water bottle cut off) then pump in the Rod a few times to purge the air. Then while holding in the Rod connect the Strap. Wipe it off and install the Slave.
Don`t remember how I bench Bled the MC, but when I replaced the Clutch a year or so back the MC wasn`t that old so didn`t mess with it.
Screw on the new Hyd line on the MC, and figure how you want to run it to the Slave and away from anything hot etc... I used a couple zip ties.
I let it hang into a container and gravity bled the line, just keep the MC full. once it dripping good, connect to the Slave.
Don`t remember how long, but added fluid couple times this way purged out the old fluid in the MC.
Most of the MC and Slave`s are plastic. The one`s I bought from O`Relly`s were both metal. Precission I think is the brand.
I bought the Luc Clutch from Parts Geek, was a 12", and I had a local shop turn/Grind the FW. I did buy new FW Bolts from Russ Repair, and found some new ARP Pressure plates off E=Bay.
Thing has been working great..
Goat
Old Goat
Full Access Member
Just was in Russ repair site and ordered a Hubb Seal and FW Bolts.
Looks like he is out of the Clutch Line kits, and MC Thermostats.
I left a message to see when they will get these back in.
Over a certain amount. free Ship and Tax.
Note: Russ is no longer with us passed away few months back, But family is still keeping the site up.
Goat
Looks like he is out of the Clutch Line kits, and MC Thermostats.
I left a message to see when they will get these back in.
Over a certain amount. free Ship and Tax.
Note: Russ is no longer with us passed away few months back, But family is still keeping the site up.
Goat
