Promise... the build

[Selahdoor]

Curses! DOOD, yer going to cost me!

Going to end up rebuilding this thing again.

Also need to buy more clips. Those cheapo clips I bought that I claimed were made of tin foil... Yeah, they are gone. Broke and rattled right out of there. Now the headlights are hanging/swinging from the top clips.

I wish I could get a couple of the ceramic sockets, (male side) that I could put my own wires into. I don't like the 16 or 14 gauge wires.

Also wish I could get the female side, that again, I could put my own wires into.

Whatever sockets, they'd have to have the connectors included, that I would just add my wire to.




I went and looked at the generator. That will be put off for a while. Worse than he thought.


Tomorrow, if it isn't too rainy, I'll start laying out the components for building my final version of the manual glow plug harness.

 

[Scotty4]

I am chuckling picturing you heading down a bumpy road and the lights just all over. Thanks for that

 

[chillman88]

I wish I could get a couple of the ceramic sockets, (male side) that I could put my own wires into. I don't like the 16 or 14 gauge wires

I understand, but fact is if you clip them close they won't be enough of a restriction to matter. I don't remember the details but look at electrical code, you can get away with 14ga for the same current as 12ga as long as the run is short enough.

Curses! DOOD, yer going to cost me!

Going to end up rebuilding this thing again.

Aww c'mon, you were thinking about doing it anyway

 

[nelstomlinson]

I understand, but fact is if you clip them close they won't be enough of a restriction to matter. I don't remember the details but look at electrical code, you can get away with 14ga for the same current as 12ga as long as the run is short enough.

Don't even worry about the ``bottleneck'' of a few inches of 14ga in six feet or so of 12ga or 10ga. A bottleneck in a hydraulic line is a serious problem. In an electric line, it is not the same problem. I've done the calculations.

 

[Selahdoor]

Good point. Now I have even less reason not to buy those.


And...

 

[Selahdoor]

Well, I did the glow plug thing.

First, let me say, I am liking the advice to use the silicone tubing, to hold the bullet connectors on the glow plugs.

And spit does seem to be the best lube to use, to get them connected.

Once on there, and once dry, it is almost impossible to pull them apart. Seriously tough to get them off.

It takes a piece of tubing about 3/4" long, to do the job.

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Now that doesn't look like a lot of overlap, but believe me, it holds like you wouldn't believe.

And going further than that, gets you into interference territory. Won't go much further on the GP, and would interfere or overlap with shrink tubing the other way.

The hardest part is getting it onto the bullet connector. And that is also where it grips the hardest once installed and dry.

 

[Selahdoor]

Now, here is where I go my own way, in my work on this system.

I don't like the tiny wires they use, going to the GPs.

What is your objective here? To get those GPs glowing hot. The more resistance you put in the system leading to the GP, the longer it is going to take to get them hot. If you use a smaller wire, yes, you can eventually get the GPs hot. But it will take longer, and the wire itself is going to get warm, or hot.

Now here is a pic of the old wires, and my new ones. Those old ones are roughly 20 gauge. Yes, that small. With teflon insulation.

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My new wires are 12 gauge. And they are fed by a ten gauge wire. Each side is separate. So I have two 10ga wires coming from the solenoid, going to four 12ga wires per side.

I soldered the 12ga wires, to the 10ga wire. The shrink wrapped them, twice. I may end up putting a bunch of nylon wire ties on them, all along the splices, just to add some protection from vibration, etc.

And here are the two complete harnesses side by each. (I ran out of the black shrink tube, and had to use red for the rest of the build.)

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[Selahdoor]

And now, here are the two harnesses, complete, and the silicone tubing put onto some of them.

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And this is the complete system.

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From the battery, I have a piece of 6ga from some old jumper cables.

The solenoid is rated for I think I recall, at least 450 amps continuous duty.

Then, two 10ga wires, branching off to the 12ga wires that go to each GP.

At the bottom of the solenoid... This one actually requires that the post on the right be grounded. Then the post on the left goes to a momentary on, pushbutton on the dash, which then leads to hot from the battery.


With this setup, I have to hold the pushbutton on for about 8 seconds before the GPs are hot enough to start the engine.

Seems like it should take less time, but I am not complaining.

It works, and should be as reliable as, or more reliable than the original system.

I WILL be going back in there and using wire ties to neaten everything up, and to give all of it some stability. I might even put some of the plastic wire loom casing back on there.


Before I closed the hood, I went ahead and swapped the wires on the headlights so now bright is bright and dim is dim, instead of versy-visa...

 

[chillman88]

Before I closed the hood, I went ahead and swapped the wires on the headlights so now bright is bright and dim is dim, instead of versy-visa...

So, does this mean you're not a ****** now? Or did you reverse them, so now you are? I'm confused

 

[Selahdoor]

Always been a ******. Probably always will be.

But my headlights work the way they are supposed to now.

 

[chillman88]

Always been a ******. Probably always will be.

But my headlights work the way they are supposed to now.

You're as bad as I am, we'd be dangerous out in public together

 

[Selahdoor]

We're probably dangerous out in public, even apart.

 

[Philip1]

Well, I did the glow plug thing.

First, let me say, I am liking the advice to use the silicone tubing, to hold the bullet connectors on the glow plugs.

And spit does seem to be the best lube to use, to get them connected.

Once on there, and once dry, it is almost impossible to pull them apart. Seriously tough to get them off.

It takes a piece of tubing about 3/4" long, to do the job.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Now that doesn't look like a lot of overlap, but believe me, it holds like you wouldn't believe.

And going further than that, gets you into interference territory. Won't go much further on the GP, and would interfere or overlap with shrink tubing the other way.

The hardest part is getting it onto the bullet connector. And that is also where it grips the hardest once installed and dry.

Keep us posted on how well it works in the long run. I never got the chance to do the long term testing on my truck before it burned.

 

[Selahdoor]

Will do.

I did the setup with a piece of the silicone hose, a new bullet connector and a new GP, when I got the silicone tubing. Several months ago. Getting those apart, so I could make up my new harness, was very difficult. I thought for a moment I was going to have to cut the silicone tubing off, to get them separated again.

 

[Selahdoor]

Today is dry enough I might be able to get some work done on the truck.
If I can, I am going to set up the fuel pumps. Got to find some 3/8 fuel hose first.

If I find the hose, I'll do the work.

Here are the new fittings, set in the order they will be in the system.

I understand that having a check valve below the lower fitting, (On the left), is best, but I don't have a third 3/8 check valve.

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I just noticed that both check valves are backwards in the pic. That is not the way they will be installed.

The fuel pumps will be plumbed between the lower wye, (On the left.), and the check valves.