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Promise... the build

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Selahdoor, Jun 2, 2019.

  1. dgr

    dgr Full Access Member

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    Thanks for the update. Let us know how you plan to wire the led on that switch. Lots of options. I'm interested in how bright it is at night. I'd like one that is easy to find but unobtrusive when not looking for it.
     
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  2. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    I may be wrong on this, but I don't think that these controllers have a habit of sticking on like the 6.9 style does.
     
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  3. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    Gonna test the GPs anyway. :D
     
  4. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    Got the system built. Nothing much to look at.

    Removed the old controller and solenoid. Put a black hose on the old power line. And orange hose on the old switch power. Didn't have to worry about the old glow plug leads, or the wait to start light, so just left them hanging.

    Reds are the two that have power to them. Blue is WTS. Brown is GP leads.
    x-controller.JPG


    The brand new solenoid that I ordered was verkrapped!! Didn't work. (And the button is incredibly small! With tiny little connectors. So I ended up not using either part!)

    Used a starter solenoid instead.

    THREE leads. That's it. The GP leads are in brown. The power in red. And the switch in yellow.
    gpsolenoid.JPG


    It works. I have a fuel problem now. Return system is bleeding completely down, when it sits.

    But it still started quickly, and strongly.


    I am going to order the other solenoid that was suggested above.

    I am also considering building the entire GP harness myself. I was given an aftermarket harness. Had to crimp the connectors a bit, to get them to stay on the GPs. But they get loose again immediately from the heat. Plus, the wires that go from the harness down to the individual GPs are about half the size of the factory wires.

    So, yeah, I'm going to order several different kinds of connectors, some wire, some silicone 4mm hose, that solenoid... Etc. And I'll be doing this all over again.
     
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  5. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    And oh yeah. Powered from the driver's side battery!
     
  6. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    Ok, I have the wire. I have the bullet connectors. I have the shrink tube. (Tons of extra). I have the silicone tubing. I have the cool looking button that lights up only when you push it and it is actually working. I even have the 600 amp solenoid. (And I have 8 beru GPs ordered and on the way, just in case.)

    I will start on building my own harness soon.

    A quick question though... That silicone tube seems awfully small for this purpose. I may find that it fits well. I don't know. Question is, what can I use as a lube to help get it on there... That will eventually go away on it's own? Don't want to use silicone grease...
     
  7. Philip1

    Philip1 Full Access Member

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    The silicone tube is supposed to be tight to hold the connector tight on the glowplug. Silicone is very flexible so it will stretch to fit. I would imagine the best lube that would evaporate would be spit but there might be something better

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
     
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  8. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    Today, replaced the driver's side mirror. Now I can see what I need to see when I am backing up my steep curved driveway.

    Also, tracing wires and such trying to figure out why the window won't roll back up.

    And I'll bet yall can guess what I am going to be doing to my fuel system, when I get the chance to...

    fuel wye.JPG
     
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  9. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    Ok, the truck still rolls like there is something holding it back.

    I am 99.99% positive they got the brakes done right, by now.

    So I am now leaning toward the possibility that it is the bearings. (Why they wouldn't have replaced the bearings while they had ALL, and I mean all... brake components off for replacement, I have no idea...)

    Further evidence that this may be the case is the fact that it did loosen up some, after a put some miles on. Fuel mileage increased slightly, as a result.

    So I may be taking all those same brake components back off the truck, to replace the bearings...

    Regardless. I am going to eventually get to the bottom of things and figure that problem out and fix it. I won't be satisfied until it rolls and coasts like a new truck.


    ~~~


    Today I may replace the FIPL.

    Another problem I am having is that when I am on the highway, and encounter a hill.... it just goes slower and slower and slower... Never shifting or anything. Until I put my foot into it and make it down shift.

    Compared to the rest of traffic what happens is that I go slower and slower and slower... then suddenly, I am climbing up the tails of the vehicles in front of me.

    There is supposed to be a place in between. Where you smoothly keep up with the rest of traffic.

    I usually try to find a logical place to start, to suss a problem and fix it. I've determined that the place to start for this one is the FIPL.

    Here's the thing... I'll start with just adjusting it. See, the last time I adjusted this thing, I was using the harbor freight volt ohm meter. I discovered that one is out of whack. Now I am wondering if I inadvertently put my FIPL out of whack, and that has been the problem to this point. So, yeah, going to test and adjust with my new meter, just out of curiosity.

    If it IS out of adjustment, I'll adjust it. If that fixes the problem, and it stays fixed, I'll save my new FIPL for when it is needed. If it either doesn't fix the problem, or it doesn't stay fixed... I'll replace the FIPL now.

    Yeah, I know everyone is going to say just go ahead and replace it. That goes against my frugal nature. It would be a waste. I will replace it when I am sure it needs replaced. It is also my nature to have a backup for important/crucial parts. So this would satisfy both parts of my nature. (As for replace it and keep the old one for backup... What? Have an unknown/questionable part as a backup? That's as good as no backup at all. LOL)

    Anyway, I'll at least get the FIPL tested today, and adjusted if need be. Got to work between the raindrops...
     
  10. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    Yeah. That didn't take long.

    Checked the FIPL.

    Surprisingly, it is spot on.


    1.2 to 1.3v at idle.

    3.8v at WOT

    Transition is smooth. Only jump is caused by the spring and tube on the throttle cable getting stuck and letting go. (I will be replacing that entire cable assembly when I have the chance. Already have the cable.)



    5.3 v on the bottom wire.



    Top wire is the only one with any inconsistency. 0.6 ohms, with the key off. 0.3 to 0.5 volts with the key on.


    Should I do something like put a ground wire on that top wire?

    I don't have the wiring diagram to tell me where that top wire is supposed to lead to on the other end... If it just goes straight to ground, I'll give it a better ground.
     
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  11. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    Not often I get to give a warning ahead of time when having a "power out" situation. But this time, I get to kind of give one.


    My power could go out again, anytime this week. Starting right now.

    Just got notice that the power pole is finished, inspection passed, and crew has been given the order to do the swap.

    They could show up any minute, and said they WILL have it done, this week.


    When they do the swap, they'll disconnect the old pole. (I am still hooked up to that.)

    Then they'll swap the meter to the new pole, and hook the power up to the new pole.


    Meantime, I REALLY need something like a couple 50 foot extension cords at LEAST 10 gauge, preferably 8 gauge, to keep the lights on in the house. I just don't have anything like that.


    I'll be without power while I try to figure out a way to pull enough service cable from the old setup, at the old pole, to bring over here and use to connect myself to the new pole.

    Not sure that I am going to be able to find enough of that cable to do the job. But the odds are in my favor.


    Knowing me, I'll figure out a way to get at least the computer or laptop running again. Even something like setting up a tent by the new power pole, so I can sit under it with the laptop plugged in. LOL (Laptop needs a battery. Has to be plugged in.) But no guarantee of that, either.

    Hey, it didn't kill me when the power was out for most of the week, a week and a half ago... Won't kill me when it is out again, this time. Just that people wondered where I was, so I wanted to give a warning this time.
     
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  12. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    Thank you. We shall consider ourselves warned.
     

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