Promise... the build

[Jason1377]

Ok, I'm not real sure what I am looking at, then. Here are three pics taken this morning, from the front of the truck. Cany anyone identify what I have here?

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I might *almost* make my own. I have a broken one from my old truck. I might cut some steel plates and such, and try to fix it, and see if it will then work on this one.

Too bad the 92 doesn't match the superduty in this regard. I have running boards that will fit a superduty.

In fact, if anyone wants them, you can have them. But I won't ship, idioit...

My 1993 f250 has that same set up and I can not figure out why not has a death wobble after I had both tie rod ends as well as the middle connection that goes from the driver side to that middle crown nut and if wears the hell out of new tires.

I have a picture off fb market place where a local guy who is a horse shoer makes steps out of old horse shoes

 

[RetiringColt]

If your having trouble with steering geometry or vibrations/shimmying. And have checked all steering components. Don't forget to look at the bolts that hold the double I-beam to the frame. You probably would have to have the suspension unloaded and have a friend help to shake or jounce the tire while you look and feel for play. For tie rods I shake the tire left and right. For ball joints I shake the tire top to bottom. Hope that helps someone.

 

[Selahdoor]

I don't have that problem. Mine steers and drives just fine. I do appreciate the info, just in case, though.

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Since I can't post here: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/low-vacuum-warning-switch-tuna-can.86790/#post-1041917

Just wanted to say thanks for that info.

Truck has been in the shop twice now, with an intermittent dash brake light problem being one of the things they had zero luck with fixing.

I replaced my vacuum canister. When I did, I noticed that the 'tuna can' switch, seemed awfully gnarly. The above thread gave me a clue that maybe the intermittent dash brake light is caused by a bad vac switch.

I wonder if I can test this out by just disconnecting that switch? (If the dash brake light doesn't do that intermittent thing, any more, then I'll know that was the problem.)

I WANTED to ask in that thread, whether the switch is normally on or off? IOW, will disconnecting the switch cause the light to not come on? Or will I have to jumper the connector to get the light not to come on, on the dash?

 

[YJMike92]

The dash brake warning light should only come on when the parking brake switch is grounded (parking brake pedal pushed down) or when you have low brake fluid. Possibly with the rear ABS but the ABS light would be on with the brake warning light.

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

One more condition for a dash brake light is low vacuum. I believe the switch is normally open, closed on low vacuum. It does have an electronic portion to give it a time delay.

 

[Selahdoor]

Thank you.

Then unplugging that switch should get rid of the problem, IF that is what is causing the intermittent dash brake light.

Here is that gnarly vacuum switch.

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And here is the old and new vac canisters. (I believe I posted the new one, earlier in this thread.)

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[jrad235]

I need a step to get into the truck with. Cheap.

(This is for the 92 f250 that this thread is about)

I have one or two of the small universal Carr Hoop steps you can have if you make it down this way. FYI I added the steps you can see in my profile picture, but I used some scrap steel to mount them directly to the frame and down a bit from where most people mount them to the pinch weld on the bottom of the cab.

 

[Selahdoor]

I have one or two of the small universal Carr Hoop steps you can have if you make it down this way. FYI I added the steps you can see in my profile picture, but I used some scrap steel to mount them directly to the frame and down a bit from where most people mount them to the pinch weld on the bottom of the cab.

Can I get some pictures of your setup?

I'm a big guy, and I was already thinking I would need to at least brace against the frame itself.

And I want it to hang down lower than normal. ("Normal" being so high, it's only like a couple inches lower than the doorsill itself. What's the point in that?)

 

[jrad235]

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Best photos I can find right now. Used 2 pieces of 1.5" Angle Iron with diagonal bracing closer to the frame, plus 2 pieces larger angle iron with two bolts on each side to the frame. Dropped it down about 4-5" lower than the brackets that it came with would have.

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The hoops I have laying around are much smaller than those in the first picture, closer to these.

 

[YJMike92]

One more condition for a dash brake light is low vacuum. I believe the switch is normally open, closed on low vacuum. It does have an electronic portion to give it a time delay.

I guess I learned something. Thanks

 

[Selahdoor]

Going to disconnect that vacuum switch today and see if my brake light goes away.

Also time to put some gorilla tape along the top of the windshield. Got a leak up there. Too cold and wet to do anything else. Proper repair will have to wait for better weather.

Also have to figure out how to make the parking brake 'tension'. I received a package of the little plastic pieces today. But those make it not tension any more. I need mine to tension, first.


Next projects on this will be to *do the headlight relays.

*Re attach the mechanical lift pump. With the electric pump still in there. (Using two check valves. Yeah, I know all the advice about all this, but I am working with what I could afford and have on hand. I'll put both check valves, one AFTER each of the pumps. That will prevent leak back from that point, as well as prevent each pump from pushing back through the other.)

*Make my own GP controller.

*When I can afford them, *replace the FIPL, and the VSS.

*Fix lights in the dashboard. (I want to see the tenths digit on my odometer better. Currently it is easy enough to see the rest, but difficult to see the tenths.)

*Replace the driver's side door mirror.

*Install a large LED backup light in the rear bumper.

*Install an aftermarket voltage meter, usb charger ports, and power port.

*Eventually I'll install some aftermarket gauges.


*Not necessarily in that order. And not at all an "exhaustive" list.

 

[YJMike92]

It's more then I'm getting done on my rig. Today I pushed the engine from it's resting spot to sweep the floor and then back.

 

[nostrokes]

Ok, I'm not real sure what I am looking at, then. Here are three pics taken this morning, from the front of the truck. Cany anyone identify what I have here?

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I might *almost* make my own. I have a broken one from my old truck. I might cut some steel plates and such, and try to fix it, and see if it will then work on this one.

Too bad the 92 doesn't match the superduty in this regard. I have running boards that will fit a superduty.

In fact, if anyone wants them, you can have them. But I won't ship, idioit...

That would be a Dana 50hd. Your lock out hubs should have 6 or 8 bolts I don't remember and can't look at mine at the moment (waiting for my wife to recover from surgery).

There are some cheap hoop steps out there that are universal IMHO they need a lot of beefing up to make them sturdy. They mount through the door sill if I remember correctly. I found some nerf bars from go rhino for my brick nose for around $280 shipped from Jegs, pretty sure they would fit your OBS too.

 

[Selahdoor]

That would be a Dana 50hd. Your lock out hubs should have 6 or 8 bolts I don't remember and can't look at mine at the moment (waiting for my wife to recover from surgery).

There are some cheap hoop steps out there that are universal IMHO they need a lot of beefing up to make them sturdy. They mount through the door sill if I remember correctly. I found some nerf bars from go rhino for my brick nose for around $280 shipped from Jegs, pretty sure they would fit your OBS too.

Thank you!


~~~


Disconnecting the vacuum switch turned off the brake light!

And the fuel gauge didn't seem to travel quite as far, for a routine trip I make, as it usually does. I'm thinking that light WAS affecting the trans.

At some point here, I will replace all my vacuum lines. But for now, this works for me!

 

[Selahdoor]

Last fillup, on saturday. Looks like the MPG has gone up to 13. But... That could be because I am missing a receipt, for a small fillup. I am not sure.

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Speaking of fillup... I have to hold the filler nozzle, tilted as far up as possible. In other words, stick the nozzle in the filler neck.Then tilt the hose end of the nozzle as far in the air as possible. Otherwise it is constantly turning itself off.

I know everyone is going to say that I need to fix the vent. That isn't going to get done anytime this winter. Instead I have another solution for a while. I bought a rubber strap. I use it to hold the nozzle in position, while filling up. Problem is, the strap is a bit short. So I have to stretch it way tight. Solution: Today I drilled holes in the top of the bed siderails, to hook the hooks into. This truck has been used and abused by lumberjacks, etc, all it's life. The bed is so damaged no one is going to notice a few extra holes.

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Today, I also put gorilla tape all along the top of the windshield.

It's cold enough that I left the roll of gorilla tape above the heater, until right before I took it out and applied it.

Seemed to stick pretty good. The test will be whether it stops the leak at the top of the windshield or not.

~~

Lastly, I took ALL the wires but one, from the glow plug controller, loose. Red, white, green and yellow. Left the blue one alone. It doesn't matter.

Put the red one from the ignition switch, back onto the top of the solenoid. Ran my own white wire from the other side of the solenoid, into the cab. Put a momentary on button on that, and ran the other side of the button to ground.

Tried it. It worked. At least as well as it did before. I think the solenoid was/is going out. So the GPs had to be run for longer than I thought they should, to start it. But they DID work, because it started in the cold, and wouldn't at all, when it still wasn't working.

It's possible the parts I ordered may show up here as soon as tomorrow. If so, I'll build my own system immediately.

I'll get pics posted up here tomorrow, either way.

Also, after it got too dark to keep working, it occurred to me that maybe if the controller and/or solenoid were going bad... Maybe they ruined the brand new GPs? (Was leaving them on, or something?) So I will test the GPs themselves tomorrow, as well.