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Promise... the build

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by Selahdoor, Jun 2, 2019.

  1. Jason1377

    Jason1377 Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    My 1993 f250 has that same set up and I can not figure out why not has a death wobble after I had both tie rod ends as well as the middle connection that goes from the driver side to that middle crown nut and if wears the hell out of new tires.

    I have a picture off fb market place where a local guy who is a horse shoer makes steps out of old horse shoes
     
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  2. RetiringColt

    RetiringColt Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    If your having trouble with steering geometry or vibrations/shimmying. And have checked all steering components. Don't forget to look at the bolts that hold the double I-beam to the frame. You probably would have to have the suspension unloaded and have a friend help to shake or jounce the tire while you look and feel for play. For tie rods I shake the tire left and right. For ball joints I shake the tire top to bottom. Hope that helps someone.
     
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  3. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    I don't have that problem. Mine steers and drives just fine. I do appreciate the info, just in case, though.

    ~~~

    Since I can't post here: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/low-vacuum-warning-switch-tuna-can.86790/#post-1041917

    Just wanted to say thanks for that info.

    Truck has been in the shop twice now, with an intermittent dash brake light problem being one of the things they had zero luck with fixing.

    I replaced my vacuum canister. When I did, I noticed that the 'tuna can' switch, seemed awfully gnarly. The above thread gave me a clue that maybe the intermittent dash brake light is caused by a bad vac switch.

    I wonder if I can test this out by just disconnecting that switch? (If the dash brake light doesn't do that intermittent thing, any more, then I'll know that was the problem.)

    I WANTED to ask in that thread, whether the switch is normally on or off? IOW, will disconnecting the switch cause the light to not come on? Or will I have to jumper the connector to get the light not to come on, on the dash?
     
  4. YJMike92

    YJMike92 Full Access Member

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    The dash brake warning light should only come on when the parking brake switch is grounded (parking brake pedal pushed down) or when you have low brake fluid. Possibly with the rear ABS but the ABS light would be on with the brake warning light.
     
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  5. Garbage_Mechan

    Garbage_Mechan Garbage Mechanic

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    One more condition for a dash brake light is low vacuum. I believe the switch is normally open, closed on low vacuum. It does have an electronic portion to give it a time delay.
     
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  6. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    Thank you.

    Then unplugging that switch should get rid of the problem, IF that is what is causing the intermittent dash brake light.

    Here is that gnarly vacuum switch.
    vac switch.JPG

    And here is the old and new vac canisters. (I believe I posted the new one, earlier in this thread.)
    vac can replace.png
     
  7. jrad235

    jrad235 Full Access Member

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    I have one or two of the small universal Carr Hoop steps you can have if you make it down this way. FYI I added the steps you can see in my profile picture, but I used some scrap steel to mount them directly to the frame and down a bit from where most people mount them to the pinch weld on the bottom of the cab.
     
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  8. Selahdoor

    Selahdoor How can I help you, or make you laugh, today? Supporting Member

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    Can I get some pictures of your setup?

    I'm a big guy, and I was already thinking I would need to at least brace against the frame itself.

    And I want it to hang down lower than normal. ("Normal" being so high, it's only like a couple inches lower than the doorsill itself. What's the point in that?)
     
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  9. jrad235

    jrad235 Full Access Member

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    truck step4.jpg
    Truck step2.jpg
    Best photos I can find right now. Used 2 pieces of 1.5" Angle Iron with diagonal bracing closer to the frame, plus 2 pieces larger angle iron with two bolts on each side to the frame. Dropped it down about 4-5" lower than the brackets that it came with would have.

    truck step1.jpg
    The hoops I have laying around are much smaller than those in the first picture, closer to these.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2019
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  10. YJMike92

    YJMike92 Full Access Member

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    I guess I learned something. Thanks
     

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