Promise... the build

ClifFord

Registered User
Joined
Apr 24, 2017
Posts
49
Reaction score
15
Location
Houston, TX
It's easy. Adjusting window is like a 3/4 oval hole at the bottom inside of the back plate with a rubber cap. Push in the flat lock tab with 1 small flat screwdriver, at the same time turn the star on the adjuster in. Out direction will turn without pushing lock tab, in you have to push lock tab to turn. Just pull that whole rubber cap out.

Not questioning knowledge or experience. Just FYI.


Sent from my cp3705A using Tapatalk
 

Selahdoor

How can I help you, or make you laugh, today?
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2015
Posts
2,253
Reaction score
2,004
Location
Index Wa
Today, I ran the wire that switches the relay for the electric fuel pump... To the fuel shutoff solenoid on the IP.

No more trying to remember to turn on/off the fuel pump. It'll be on and off with the key.

Also glued some pieces of the dash back together again. Leave it to dry/cure overnight, inside, in the warmth, and tomorrow I can put the dash back on.

So tomorrow, I'll probably see what I can do about lubing the speedo cable, then put the dash back together.

After that, it'll be a tossup whether I do the headlight relays, or put the GP controller switch on the fast idle solenoid.

At some point soon, I have to try to get the cable pulled all the way out, on the parking brake, and get that locked on place. I want it that way, when I take the truck back to them. I'll ask them to reattach the parking brake at the back axle, then re-inspect the brakes and figure out what is dragging.
 

Selahdoor

How can I help you, or make you laugh, today?
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2015
Posts
2,253
Reaction score
2,004
Location
Index Wa
Taking it back tomorrow, to have them fix at least 4 problems...

1. Connect and fix the parking brake. (I suspect they had a problem because of aftermarket brake shoes. This outlined by Garbage Mechanic in a new thread, I just started.)

2. It seems like the brakes are always just slightly applied. You have to always always have your foot into it to keep moving forward.

Normally, if you are going 70 and going downhill, you can take your foot off the gas pedal and coast. Not with this one. Take you foot off, and you immediately slow down like you are barely applying the brakes.

3. The lockup torque converter is not locking up.

Go 70... You ARE in 4th. At about 1500-1600 RPM. Tap the brakes, no change in the RPMs. Push the button on the stalk, and RPMs go up to over 2600. Push the button again, back down to 1500-1600. So overdrive is happening. (4th gear). But no lockup.

4. Brake light keeps coming on and off on the dash. It isn't 'regular'. In other words, it doesn't just come on after 40MPH like before. It just comes on and goes off whenever it wants to. Whether you are using the brakes or not.


To be honest... if all they succeed in doing is fixing the dragging brakes, I'll be happy. Even though overdrive is happening, that thing is using a LOT of fuel!

I am suspecting that they didn't leave a gap behind the rod when they mated the MC to the vacuum booster. This may be causing the dragging brakes, AND the brake light problem.
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,237
Reaction score
10,925
Location
edmond, ks
gas pedal
DANG! My 1985 doesn't have one of those. Just a throttle pedal.;Poke Actually, now that I'm reading your last post, I would guess that most or all of these issues are related enough that it will only require a couple of fixes. I your brakes are dragging, this could explain the poor fuel mileage (pretty much a given). It could also explain why your torque convertor isn't locking up when in overdrive-you have to use just enough throttle to overcome the brakes to keep it from locking up. Remember, when everything's working correctly, if you step on the throttle and it's not hard enough to downshift, it will unlock the convertor first. It will also use more fuel if the convertor's not locking up. The brake light on the dash may be coming on at times because the parking brakes aren't hooked up. Sometimes, if everything's working correctly here, if you don't have the parking brake pedal come up all of the way, this light will come on. I've driven trucks that you actually had to lift up on the peedal after releasing it to keep the light on the dash from being lit.
 

Selahdoor

How can I help you, or make you laugh, today?
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2015
Posts
2,253
Reaction score
2,004
Location
Index Wa
All of that is exactly the way I was thinking...

We'll see.
 

Selahdoor

How can I help you, or make you laugh, today?
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2015
Posts
2,253
Reaction score
2,004
Location
Index Wa
Took the truck back to the shop this afternoon.

I think they'll get the brakes figured out. Also think once that is figured out, the rest of the problems will be solved.

Next dumb question for when I get it back again...

That truck rides like a rock! You feel every little bump. If I were just a bit taller, i would have been hitting my head against the roof almost every time there was a bump.

The old truck isn't anywhere near as hard a ride as this one is.

Is there any way, to soften up the ride?
 

chillman88

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2017
Posts
6,022
Reaction score
6,152
Location
Central NY
That truck rides like a rock! You feel every little bump. If I were just a bit taller, i would have been hitting my head against the roof almost every time there was a bump.

The old truck isn't anywhere near as hard a ride as this one is.

Is there any way, to soften up the ride?

Check your suspension bushings for wear and replace your shocks. That may not be the solution, but it's a step in the right direction.

Lots of guys have noted a significant improvement in ride quality with Bilstien shocks, if you can afford them :confused: They're 2-3x the price of the Monroe shocks but I guess if they're worth it....
 

YJMike92

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2018
Posts
608
Reaction score
329
Location
NW Arkansas
just a thought. I have seen some shocks and struts seize which allows no movement of the suspension on the affected corner. Makes for a real rough ride.
 

bbjordan

Snow Monkey
Joined
Feb 24, 2011
Posts
1,421
Reaction score
393
Location
Ashern Manitoba
These are heavy duty trucks, and empty, they ride as such. With 500 lbs or more in the back, they ride way better.

As for the Bilsteins, I just put them on my 1996 this summer. It still rides like a heavy duty truck. I can't tell the difference between the Bilsteins and what's in my 1997 (almost identical truck). I don't know what they are. They might even be the original ones?
 

david85

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Posts
4,820
Reaction score
1,083
Location
Campbell River, B.C.
I find that you need 1000-2000 lbs to get a smooth ride out of these trucks. When you have 4 leafs plus the bottom plate, there's just nothing to do but load it up. I did have 3000lbs once, but it caused a bit of front/rear bobbing. But it was smooth.

Your other option is to remove one of the leafs from the stack, but that might be considered sacrilege.

On the upside, an empty F250 can fly around corners surprisingly well. Body roll? What's that?:angel:

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 

nostrokes

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2017
Posts
517
Reaction score
312
Location
Colorado
Unfortunately that is a common trait of the single cab. My 88 regular cab was worse than my current truck.

You could also lower your tire pressure in the rear. Unless your loaded down you really don't need 80 psi. I run mine around 60 or so empty.
 

Garbage_Mechan

Garbage Mechanic
Joined
Jun 9, 2008
Posts
989
Reaction score
492
Location
Central Cal Foothills
Good point on the tire pressure! Sidewalls say xxxx MAX load at xx MAX psi. Everyone in the industry plays it safe.... they might load it to GVW then we would be blamed for under inflation failure.....
There are charts out there giving tire size, load and the pressure for that load. 80 psi causes handling like driving on steel wheels. I got great results in the 86 for 200k miles with around 40 front and 35 rear. Much improved ride, traction and handling. Tested no measurable fuel mileage difference.
 

Jake60

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2019
Posts
136
Reaction score
184
Location
New Jersey
I bought these for my '06 after riding in my buddy's truck that has them, huge difference in ride. Haven't got to installing them yet (along with mountains of other stuff). Sulastic rubber shackles, they suck up the first inch or so of those small, sharp jolts that go up your spine then they bottom out and the leafs take over.

You must be registered for see images attach
 
Top