Project Big Blue

Thewespaul

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No new springs?
Nope, Ive put 40+ psi through the stock springs on the shop truck without issue, these didnt have any measurable wear and I wouldnt put 910s on a moderately low boost tow rig thats going to see a lot of miles, Ive noticed the 910s tend to wear the rockers and valve stems more rapidly than the stock springs due to the increased seat pressure, so for the goals for this truck and working with the budget we have, money is better spent elsewhere imo.
 

Thewespaul

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Looking good. Just an observation of mine though. When I was working on these for a living around your age, all of this wasn't too bad for me to do. Now that I'm about 20 or so years older than you, it's not as easy for me to install the heads over the studs. I can still lift them up to deck height alright, but picking them up enough higher to put them over the studs is a big effort for me by myself.:( YOU'VE BEEN WARNED!LOL
They get heavier when youre building three at once too, I usually just support them with my waist, tilting them back and lining them up with the lower studs then flip it over and slide it down onto the block, that way its just a controlled fall instead of trying to gingerly line it up from above it while supporting all the weight with your arms.
 

chillman88

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6.9 valve seals installed

Do I remember you saying you use these on the 7.3s because they help the guides last longer?

On the topic of not using 910 springs, would you use them on yours if they were already sitting on the shelf? Curious because I have a set already and I'm wondering if you're advocating against them for longevity purposes or it's just "not necessary".
 

IDIBRONCO

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They get heavier when youre building three at once too,
I can sure see that.
I usually just support them with my waist, tilting them back and lining them up with the lower studs then flip it over and slide it down onto the block, that way its just a controlled fall instead of trying to gingerly line it up from above it while supporting all the weight with your arms.
Good idea. I may have to remember that one. It will save my the embarasment of using a helper.
 

Thewespaul

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Torqued the heads down in steps from 50, 85, 100 to 135 ft lbs. Pushrods all seated and new valley pan on and sealed. Threw the intake on and got the ceramic coated parts out to cool off overnight.
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Thewespaul

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Do I remember you saying you use these on the 7.3s because they help the guides last longer?

On the topic of not using 910 springs, would you use them on yours if they were already sitting on the shelf? Curious because I have a set already and I'm wondering if you're advocating against them for longevity purposes or it's just "not necessary".

You’re correct about the seals, I like the better clamping design over the 7.3 seals and believe the extra bit of oil bypass helps keep the valves lubricated but won’t make any noticeable oil consumption.

For the 910s, I think they are better suited for the performance engines that won’t see a ton of miles. From what I’ve measured from the stock springs clamping force the stock spring shouldnt have trouble till 30+ psi, granted that’s just calculating the force from boost pressure and the valve has other forces on it like the inertia from its cycle but that’s going to be just as affective pulling towards the piston and towards the spring. When building an engine to last I tend to plan to change the least amount of things possible from the oem design to achieve the needed performance since the manufacturers usually knew what they were doing (cams, springs, bearing material etc) and unnecessarily adding spring pressure to the valve train is just going to multiply wear, it’s more force on all the wear points, the valve seat, stem, guide, rocker tip etc. and actually robs power.
 

Selahdoor

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Looking good. Just an observation of mine though. When I was working on these for a living around your age, all of this wasn't too bad for me to do. Now that I'm about 20 or so years older than you, it's not as easy for me to install the heads over the studs. I can still lift them up to deck height alright, but picking them up enough higher to put them over the studs is a big effort for me by myself.:( YOU'VE BEEN WARNED!LOL
So just how old are you guys?
 

Thewespaul

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After the engine is built and in the truck I’ll start on the intercooler. Yesterday I got the manifolds painted with vht and installed them with new hardware and anti seize. Then I installed the crossover and up pipe assembly, and set a T04Z I have in stock in place, did a torque on the studs one last time and torqued all the rockers.
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Next I blasted and primed the valve covers, then cleaned up the stock ip before opening it up to shorten the governor, bottom the leaf spring screw, adjust the advance, replace the delivery valve, back out the torque screw, and adjust the transfer pressure setting. Always want to have the pump clean before making any adjustments.
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The valve covers dried overnight and I sanded them down this morning. The driver side needed another stage of primer, but I was able to color and clear the passenger side. Also got the engine mount adapters cleaned up and painted with a good chassis paint.
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Got the injection lines painted and drying overnight then I’ll be able to complete the fuel system. Tomorrow I’m going to finish flushing some buildup out of the oil cooler and get the cooling system finished up to go for a first test fire as soon as the new turbo comes in from the balancer.
 

IDIBRONCO

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16b7d9c9-be4a-4f8e-97ea-7d1791afb58f-jpeg.126342
So what's with the exhaust manifolds on the engine behind the water pump in the foreground in this picture? They look similar to the ones that Idiot built for the Manchero. Are they a product of yours? Did you mention them before and I missed/forgot about them?
 

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