OVERHEATS AFTER I SHUT IT OFF

icanfixall

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Boston... Many of us on this forum have seen and been thru what your seeing on your truck. So we know where things are headed. Mel's point about the ivr is benifical to everyone. In my very early post to you about the check engine lite causing the coolant dash gauge to peg is a fact. Sometimes that large sender in the front of the drivers side head goes bad. When you shut down the engine and let the truck side for a few minutes try to restart the engine. If the coolant gauge is hot and pegged lift the wire off the head sender. If the needle drops to NORMAL its cost you nothing to fix. Now about a thrmostat costing only $5.00..... Thats not happening. Only one thermost fits and works in these engines. Buy only from ford or international. They are around $20.00 and will flow enough coolant where the auto parts fakeass stores wont. Of course they fit and some kid will sell you something means nothing. The factory oem stat opens at 192 degrees and is fully open at 212 degrees. This is given to you from my many years of painful research and help from others. Nobody here whats you to just go away with your engine issues but we do want to to have the best shot at an inexpensive repair and doing it once. I have thrown parts at problems before. Usually its electrical issues. So I continue to watch and learn. I offer what I have learned about these electrical issues listed here from my experiance and the boards experiance. The hep ie free here so use it. No ford shop will offer you anything for free. This site has the emebers with far more hands on experiance than any other ford dealership on the planet. Drink it up. It wont hurt at all. You have a nice looking filtration system in the bed of your truck. As Mel posted. Using that on a worn out injection pump will help get you a few more miles before the pump is so clearanced that it can't build pressure no matter how thick the fuel is. Good luck with your truck. This forum is here to help guide you to the correct, least costly repair.
 

Boston

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Ok kids I finally had a chance to take the ole beast out for a spin, ran like a top and then didn't want to restart, soooooo, as someone suggested I cooled off IP ( ok someone suggested a cup of water and I used a few ice cubes cause I didn't want to drench all those electrical connections ) and bingo it started nicely. I'm getting to checking that wire you keep mentioning and see what that does. I was actually delivering a steamer to a job site and didn't have the time I'd like to to really investigate this thing. Silly as it sounds I need to identify the sender unit so I can be sure I've got the right wire, yes this is my first 7.3 no this is not my first time learning a new engine.

anyway another piece of the puzzle

so explain if you would how the IVR effects cooling in such a way to induce the issue I'm having

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Shadetreemechanic

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Sounds like you figured it out. If you are curious why it happened all of a sudden
1. its springtime and things are getting warmer.
2. Pulling your wvo out of the mix changed viscosity.
I don't know if you are doing a two tank system and purging your pump before shutdown, but if you are you can stop it and get alittle more life out of the pump.
 

Boston

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Well there is still the gauge issue that needs investigation. I'll be running the next few tanks WVO mixed with about 25% diesel to keep the injectors clean until I have a chance to go get some WMO again. I'd also like to learn about this electrical issue and how it effects overheating on this engine.

I'll be smelling like french fries for a week or so.

cheers
B
 

Agnem

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An IVR will only make you THINK your overheating. It doesn't cause it or prevent it mechanically.
 

icanfixall

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An IVR will only make you THINK your overheating. It doesn't cause it or prevent it mechanically.

That exactlly how the ivr works. Now about the sender you need to remove the wire from. Its the sender in the drivers side head at the front of the engine. Just remove it and drive the wheels off the truck. See if the dash gauge needle pegs over. If it does not then ground that wire and watch the needle on the dash gauge peg over. All this large sender in the head does is ground out the dash gauge when the temp reaches 242 degrees. Like you have described here its sounds like that large sender has gone bad on you. Its a common thing to happen from time to time on this forum. It scres plenty of owners too. Without a real after market gauge you really will never know what your oil pressure or engine coolant temp is. The factory dash stuff just was not that realiable but it usually made you "feel good". All the oil pressure gauge tells you is that you have at least 7 lbs. Nothing more... We have had some members here make some modifications to the oil pressure dash gauge and now its really telling you a pressure but... No numbers are showing up because the dash gauge does not have any on the dial... Glad your getting this figured out....
So tell me what the steamers are used for???:dunno Looks kinda intresting as to what they are for...
 

Boston

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Raining cats and dogs again, don't really feel like taking the truck down to my shop and working on a hot engine so I'm slacking today.

The steamer is for two projects actually. I'm doing a historic window restoration in which I cant fix the bends or bows the windows have developed over the years nor can I replace any of the wood on the exterior of the building other than what is approved by the "hysterical" society. Means I have to steam up some caps for the old sills that went all wonky and develop a transition between the old screwed up exterior and the new window sashes. Which actually aren't new, again I cant change the exterior so I'm cutting the old sashes in roughly half and replacing only the inner half with a functional window. Should match the new interior closely enough to establish a good seal between the new weather stripping and the new 1/4 veneer that caps the old interior wood. Its a complex project but nothing I haven't done before.

I also need to bend up some storms for this project and a lot of these windows are rounded headers so there is actually a lot of steaming involved.

The truck is going to be my wood hauler, I've got a nice stout little trailer thats about to be a gooseneck and I need this thing running so I can go pick up two loads of hardwood. Its pretty cheap to operate on free fuel or it should be and two loads because I can only legally haul so much with it lest I void my insurance. Offhand I can't remember what the max towing capacity on a fifth wheel is for this thing but ya gotta stay under it or you void the waranty, and hardwood is really heavy stuff.

my last job was this Victorian entry

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I could blither on for a while but pictures work better

anyway I'm also about to begin a wood cold molded boat building project which is very complex given that I'm using a design from about 1915 and methodologies from 2000. Very challenging which I kinda like anyway.
 
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icanfixall

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Thanks... I kinda thought you were "bending wood" for some project.... Nice work too.;Sweet:thumbsup:
 

snicklas

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OK, let me put a different perspective on the IVA and its possible implications. Most of us here (me included) have experienced the infamous IVR gauge issue. I am not trying to talk down to anyone here, just an explanation is a different manner.......

I know for certain on the 80-86 F Series trucks (80-86 gassers and 83-86 diesels (diesels were introduced in the 83 model year, along one minor exterior change, in 83 the "blue oval" was first placed in the center of the grill, in 80-82 F O R D was spelled out across the hood, similar to the earlier trucks)) and in the 80-92 (I think 92 was the last year of the 73 on van body, yes they ran the same basic van body for almost 20 years with various minor face lifts, round to square headlights, move the location of the Econoline name etc).. sorry back on target.

On the back of the instrument cluster, there is a silver box, about the size of a cigarette pack if I remember right (been a while since I have had an 80's era dash apart). It cycles on an off, limiting the amount of power to the instrument cluster. I think it is a 50% cycle, so in essence, when ever the instrument cluster has power applied to it (key in the run position) the gauges themselves are receiving an on-off of applied power to it. If the key is on for an hour, the instrument has only gotten power for the equivalent of 1/2 an hour. It is a simple relay type circuit (think turn signal flasher) on-off-on-off.......... when the instrument cluster is receiving this correct signal, all the gauges should read "normally" (please do not start the factory vs aftermarket "real" gauges debate, that is not where this is going. Personally, I understand the purpose and design intent of the factory instrumentation, I do not like the 87+ oil pressure setup, but again this is not where this is going) I do not have a problem with the factory gauges as they do tell me useful information, I have driven vehicles with "real" gauges, and after the first few times I look at them I do not care what the #'s are, I look a the needle position, as long as they are where I expect them to point, that is all I need to know when running down the road) for this example, with the trucks and vans that I have personal experience with (the most with a 83 F-150 and an 85 E-150 with this same gauge setup), the Temperature gauge would normally point between the "O" and the "R", oil pressure would normally be in about the same location (remember the 86 and earlier does have a real pressure sender that moved the needle in accordance with the oil pressure, with the introduction of the "bricknose" in 87 it is a on-off pressure switch, when the pressure switch has at least 7psi of oil pressure, it will send the needle to the middle of the gauge, my 03 6.0 is still this same system.) The above location is at normal operating temperature, cruising at a steady 55ish speed. I, as I believe most people, keep an eye on the Engine Temperature gauge more ofter than the other gauges. If the IVR is working correctly, all is good, and the above readings are maintained. If the IVR malfunctions and from what I have seen personally and read on the forum is it malfunctions and stick in the ON position, not the OFF position, which is now giving the instrument cluster power 100% of the time rather than the expected 50%. The first we experienced this we thought we had a thermostat issue, and as did Mel, we replaced the thermostat and the problem went away. (It didn't actually go away, the IVR started working again on the next start-up.) However, a few days later, same thing, it was running "hot" again. This time we noticed something else, the Oil Pressure, Ammeter, Fuel and Temp gauges were running high. (We had filled the fuel tanks, and the fuel gauge was almost hidden behind the cluster on the full side). We had a "wait a minute" moment and realized something was going on. We live in the country and the roads are not the smoothest, we hit a chuck-hole, and all the gauges went back to their "normal" locations. This happened on and off all the time. We bought the 85 van, and the gauges did the exact same thing. I honestly did not know, until a few years ago,after I joined this forum, that this problem had a fix. For all these years, Dad and I had just chalked it up to "typical Ford gauges". It can be quite a surprise the first few times it happens.

All, one other thing to remember: There are many of us that have been around these era of trucks and are used to their quirks. There are many members that join this forum, and these are "new" to them, and are not used to all the quirks and personalities of the trucks. I am fortunate in the fact that I have been a motorhead since I was very young, and Dad and I did most of the work on his and my vehicles and other "stuff" over the years, so even before I was able to drive I was familiar with vehicles and repairing them. I am sure that with some of the members and these trucks, the truck is older than the owner. I know there are many of us that remember when these trucks were new on the showroom floor (myself included) and was there when these same problems were new to us, just 20+ years ago....... and we were just a stumped as the guys are that has the first experience with these, now..........
 

Boston

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interesting stuff, thanks
my time line for this truck seems to have been stepped up some, Thursday evening someone ran a light and totaled my car, I took friday off and here it is Saturday trying to get to work and the truck won't start at all. I'm curious, if the IP issue is based on wear in the system how fast does it degrade to an unusable condition from the occasional difficulties?

I've got it running on WMO and WVO again but this morning its a no go for launch

any ideas would be apreciated
oh and the temp sender is shot
 

Boston

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Got it started and drove around a while, works fine once its running

just out of curiosity does it starting right up when its hot if I put a few ice cubes on the IP definitively prove its the IP. The temp sending unit does seem to be screwed up but I get the impression that thing is independent of the IP and only effects the accuracy of the dash indicator

anyway
thanks for all the help
if I can say that the IP is definitively shot then where is a good source
I've found them for about 300 so far
 

rhkcommander

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could be worn ip. some say to pour cold water on it :eek: bad idea as the shock can stress/crack things.

IDK how else to tell though. but rough hot starting is a sympotm of seals in the IP or something :dunno

Ok kids I finally had a chance to take the ole beast out for a spin, ran like a top and then didn't want to restart, soooooo, as someone suggested I cooled off IP ( ok someone suggested a cup of water and I used a few ice cubes cause I didn't want to drench all those electrical connections ) and bingo it started nicely.

2nd post in ;Poke|stupid:shoot:;Really:moon::smash::bail. told ya so :rotflmao just stirring the pot

IP could last a day, week, month, year or two. Hard to tell at this point. :dunno
 

DeepRoots

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wow, this is freaking annoying.
lemme help you Boston.

The IP is F**ked. Replace it. While you are at it, spend the $30 and buy a three guage cluster. Mechanical oil psi, Water temp, and Voltage gauge. Or if you are really scrapping for cash:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G2924/ $18 gets you the two gauges you NEED.

If you are going by what the ford gauges say, you are wasted your and our precious time.

Help us help you.
Drew
 

rhkcommander

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Just poking some fun, not trying to hurt your feelings.

Seriously though those gauges are crap. Just cause they seemed accurate don't make them so. I have to punch my cluster to get 2 of the gauges moving ;Really
 

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