OVERHEATS AFTER I SHUT IT OFF

[Agnem]

Yup. What Icanfixall said is exactly what I was going to say. The fact that you have a heat soak issue now, having switched back to streight diesel makes all the sense in the world. You'll need to go back to your normal mix right away, or be confronted by this problem until you replace the pump, which you are going to end up doing soon anyway.

 

[Boston]

well its been raining for the last few days or I'd have changed that thermostat and known a bit more by now.

so what can you tell me about that IP
what brand should I get and whats my best source for the part.
thanks again guys
always appreciated

cheers
B

 

[rhkcommander]

they are all stanadyne db2's afaik.

There are some reputable rebuilders, Mel Agnem (in this thread) does the moose products... Theres some other rebuilders like the one that did the u-haul pumps, the name escapes me.

 

[Agnem]

Let me make sure I understand this.... you're going to throw parts at it, not knowing what's wrong with it. Right? You haven't done any of the tests we suggested. Right? I just want to make sure I understand your troubleshooting methodology.

 

[Boston]

Let me make sure I understand this.... you're going to throw parts at it, not knowing what's wrong with it. Right? You haven't done any of the tests we suggested. Right? I just want to make sure I understand your troubleshooting methodology.

as I said its been raining and I haven't had a chance to check anything yet. The thermostat is most likely to be out and since its about five bucks then sure, I think I can risk it. Remember the parts about the gauge says its hot, engine wont start and acts like its hot, open hood and engine "is" hot. Sure I'll check the gauge, but its kinda a no brainer, given that its got all its fluids and belts then the next most likely thing is the thermostat. If I've got the thermostat opened up to check it I might as well stick a new one in there. Discussing the issue with people is a typical first research tool "before" digging into any new issue with a vehicle. At least it is in my book, so your concern although noted is rather humorously mistaken. You might have also missed the part about my having always turned my own wrenches or having brought this vehicle back from oblivion in the first place.

If it continues to act up then I'll consider checking and changing other things but where you got the idea that I was going to randomly throw parts at it is somewhat of a mystery, but if you misunderstood something thats fine all I could recommend is that you read the thread from the begining. Asking what part your suggesting and what it costs does not constitute an action plan. It was you after all that suggested I'd be replacing the pump eventually anyway wasn't it? If you read my posts from the beginning I've been suggesting thermostat all the way since a part open stat would prevent the natural convection loop between the engine block and the radiator from operating at its greatest efficiency and allow heat to remain in the engine once its shut off. Granted it took a bit of research to determine that this is the next most likely cause however being the next most likely cause and that its all of a five dollar part, well enough said.

cheers and try and have a better day
B

 

[Compu Doc]

Asking what part your suggesting and what it costs does not constitute an action plan. If you read my posts from the beginning I've been suggesting thermostat all the way since a part open stat would prevent the natural convection loop between the engine block and the radiator from operating at its greatest efficiency and allow heat to remain in the engine once its shut off.
cheers and try and have a better day
B

I once had a Cadillac in California that this happened to. It would not show any signs of over heating until one day I ran it at high speed on the freeway through some hills and when I got to where I was going I shut it off. Although you did not see any steam or any blown hoses you could hear slight boiling. I took the thermostat out placed it in a pot with an insta read thermometer and when the water was boiling the thermostat was only partially open and not all the way open as it should have been. The cost to diagnose cost me zero. When I bought a new thermostat I repeated the above test with the new one to make sure it fully functioned before installing it.

If you do have a bad thermostat replacing the IP will not solve the problem and you will have the same problem you are now. Like you I would check the thermostat first. It is easier and cheaper than replacing the IP which may not be the actual problem and if the thermostat is bad will lead to further problems down the road if it is not diagnosed first and skipped over in favor of replacing the IP.

 

[Boston]

Bingo

I was starting to worry there for a minute

its almost always the simple stuff in my experience, which can lead to more expensive issues. Sure the gauge may be off but the vehicle is showing multiple signs of a heating issue so its less likely that the gauge is off and I'm imagining all the rest than it is that the gauge is accurate and there is a problem. Besides changing out a thermostat is pretty basic, cheap, and will most likely at least help prolong the life of the pump. That and switch back to the WMO now that I just got the controller, ( which is why I went back to diesel ) for the big tank

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[itsacrazyasian]

Don't use a stant in these motors. I replaced a gasser thermostat that some bright eyed idiot tossed in my diesel and while it never overheated it was never right. Replaced it with the stant one spec'ed for our trucks and it would always swing (mechanical temp gauge). replaced with a ford unit which comes with the gasket and she sits at 190 rock solid every time.

btw a point and shoot from harbor freight is inexpensive and almost worth its weight in gold when troubleshooting. and from experneice i've seen several of these style pumps not start when heat soaked but try chasing down cooling issues and you will love the infrared thermometer. You can see exactly what the coolant is doing and if the radiator is doing its job.

 

[rhkcommander]

You've been insisting the thermostat is the issue the whole time. Could be. Only symptom I remember reading that you reported is that the gauge saying its hot when everything is off and the truck is hard to hot start.

Your insistence is probably what egged Agnem on, it definitely got me...

A cup of water is less effort than taking the tstat out but to each their own. I hope for your sake that it is the tstat

 

[Boston]

Crazy as it sounds my 91 Ford 250 with the international 7.3 IDI diesel in it overheats, when its off. I run it for a while till the temp guage says its warm and when I shut it down and wait for say 20 minutes it wont start, temp goes to the top and its got all the signs of classic overheating no start.

Its got oil, got coolant, got belts, got a mind of its own

I've never heard of a mechanical system doing this before.

Any idea folks cause all I can think of is to change the thermostat but I'm not sure how that could be screwing up if its not overheating when I drive or stuck open.

Thanks
B

Not trying to "get" anyone, just trying to resolve the issue from the most likely and simplest solution on up. Not sure where some of you got the idea that respectfully considering what advice is given turned into "I'd be randomly changing out parts but it was pretty off base. No worries I appreciate all the input and I have a lot more to go on now that I've asked around and collected the experience of others, which was my intent in the first place.

cheers
B

 

[MidnightBlade]

Well, by your knowledge I'm guessing this is your first IDI powered truck, correct?

If I am right why do you insist that you are right and Agnem is wrong, he rebuild these fuel systems for a living, I think he knows a thing or two more than you do about them. If I'm wrong here too...school me

 

[Black dawg]

does it boil over after being shut off?

 

[Compu Doc]

I have my first IDI and my first ever owned diesel for that matter. The only time my gauge ever read hot was when my heater core went. I never had my temp gauge go to hot after shutting down and then turning the ignition on. I have had my Cadillac get hot after shutting down as described in an earlier post in this thread and if I had my gauge ever going to hot after shutting down and then turning the ignition on without starting the first thing I would check is the thermostat.

A room temperature cup of water on the IP may start the truck but that is not saying that the IP is bad if in fact the truck is heating up due to a bad thermostat. That may solve the hot start issue but it does not solve the original problem of the truck heating up. He could have two problems going on here, The thermostat could be bad and the IP could be bad. The easier and cheaper one to solve first would be the thermostat. If the thermostat is changed out or at least diagnosed to be bad in a pot of water on the stove then that is one problem down. If a new thermostat is needed and then replaced and the hot start issue goes away then I think it is safe to say that the IP is good.

If the IP was replaced and the thermostat was not even at least checked out then the hot start issue could continue to exist even with a new IP. It is sometimes better to think about the simple things first.

Sometimes people get to far ahead in their thinking and then find out the problem was a simple inexpensive one in the first place. A good example was when someone on here had a no start issue. Everyone was suggesting everything from an air leak to a bad IP to doing a compression check etc. I suggested that the person change their fuel filter and as it turned out the guy changed out his fuel filter and that in fact was his problem.

Now his issue could be a bad gauge and someone suggested buying an infra red thermometer and get the reading to see if in fact it is over heating. One of those devices is good to have if you have an almost every day need for it such as checking the temperature of a race track that your running your car on and that would make it worth the money to have one. I suggested a cheap way of checking the thermostat, a pot, a stove and water. Those items people have already. Most people also already have an insta read thermometer usually for checking meats etc but it is not really needed because we all know that boiling water is at 212 degrees Fahrenheit and if you have a thermostat in a pot of boiling water on a stove and it is not fully opened the thermostat is bad.

Now why don't we all wait and see what the results are when he is able to check the thermostat and go from their after the results are posted instead of fighting with each other over something trivial.

 

[Boston]

exactly Doc
no one is insisting anyone is wrong or that the problem has been diagnosed, or won't be diagnosed or that parts will be randomly changed. I've not had a chance to touch it yet as I've been working a lot and its been raining cats and dogs.

I'll run some tests when I have an opportunity and keep you all posted

nice to see that level heads prevail

cheers
B

 

[Agnem]

Most of us just want you to fix your truck. Correctly. The first time. My "frustration" tone in my message comes from the fact that back before the internet was invented, my truck was overheating constantly. I changed the thermostat 3 times, which by the way, is not a simple matter of taking out 2 bolts and just swapping it out. It's removing the alternator, vacuum pump, fuel lines and filter head mounting bracket, at least on my 6.9. THREE TIMES I changed it out, each time believing somehow I had gotten a bad thermostat. Thats a lot of man hours, a lot of wrenching, scraping the gasket material off and all that. On the third trip out, in frustration I pounded on my instrument cluster to show that temperature gauge who was boss, and low and behold, it dropped right down the normal range. It turned out my problem was the illustrious IVR (instrument voltage regulator) sticking between cycles. My problem was NOT the cooling system. Never was. It was a minor electrical problem. So you see... if I seem pissed off because you won't try something simple first, you can understand that it's only because I'm still kicking myself after over 20 years, and I want you to benefit from my mistake. If you don't learn from my being a fool, then I was a fool for nothing! Don't swap parts until you have verified as many ways as possible that they are bad! It's a painfull lesson I already learned FOR YOU.