OD worth the $ ?

Black dawg

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I can’t imagine it would be all that difficult to mount a cross member under the gear vendors. Are you saying that when backing a trailer or something they have a tendency to fail?
Yes, I cant remember which part it is in them, but is actually a pretty common failure.
 

Cant Write

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My thoughts to kill 2 birds with 1 stone......maybe 3.....

You said you need new tires, buy 255/85-16 (33”)

Option 1: Find 3.54 axles, rebuild and swap, pull a leaf or 2 out of the rear and maybe lighter duty coils for the front (possible?) to get your F-150 ride and rev drop.

Option 2: E4OD with standalone controller. Program for your liking. 33” tires and .71 @ 75mph is around 2250rpm. Then work on your F-150 ride.

Your already this deep, go find the bottom!! Wouldn’t your gasser be full of sensors or were you thinking carb? And do you drive your F250 much in the winter since it’s so nice?

I vote option 2 and 66% of my vehicles are standards.
 

Old Goat

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Got a like on this today, forgot I posted this.

I think I found this on "Binder Planet" a International Scout Forum, guys doing Rock Crawling. Is an interesting set up.


Goat
 

Dustyman

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The gear vendors option not cheap or simple, and will not produce a significant drop in RPM, due to torque converter slip.
This is not true. The torque converter slip was there in the first place, and the same exact amount of slip will be there with the GV. It does not change the amount of slip, aprox 10%, but it does change the RPM of the drive shaft.
 

david85

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This is not true. The torque converter slip was there in the first place, and the same exact amount of slip will be there with the GV. It does not change the amount of slip, aprox 10%, but it does change the RPM of the drive shaft.
Torque converter slip is not linear across the RPM range. The lower the RPM, the more the torque converter will slip, especially around the stall speed.

More slip = more heat = more lost efficiency.

RPM will drop with the overdrive engaged, but as I implied with my earlier post, much of that gain will be wasted, because the C6 does not have a locking torque converter. I suppose it depends on how someone might define a "significant" drop in RPM. If the truck has 4.10s, the drop will be more noticeable. 3.55s will be less noticeable.
 

Dustyman

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It is true that T-slip is not linear but with my 410's I will still be in the same efficiency range. Od will put me at aprox 26-2700 at 65. Now I am at 3150 which roughly calculates out to 9-10% slippage. I looked up a slip calculator and even at 55 I should be at about 2000, and that should keep me in the 10% range. Would I like a lockup? Yes and no. I like the simplicity of the C6, and it is in perfect shape, has no electronics, known dependability. Money was no object I would switch to a manual, but money is an object. Main objective is to not be screaming the motor so badly just to stay with traffic. It drives me nuts listening to it at 65 mph. Any MPG gain will be a bonus. If I had 355's I would not have a problem and would not need OD. Looked at doing that and it is cheaper, but I feel that would be too much with this motor and a 7500 pound weight on an all around basis. Will spend a lot of time putzing around the woods where the 410's will be nice. Just trying to figure out how to solve the RPM issue at a price I can afford. I feel like I am torturing the truck in traffic. thanks for the input, Larry
 
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franklin2

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It is true that T-slip is not linear but with my 410's I will still be in the same efficiency range. Od will put me at aprox 26-2700 at 65. Now I am at 3150 which roughly calculates out to 9-10% slippage. I looked up a slip calculator and even at 55 I should be at about 2000, and that should keep me in the 10% range. Would I like a lockup? Yes and no. I like the simplicity of the C6, and it is in perfect shape, has no electronics, known dependability. Money was no object I would switch to a manual, but money is an object. Main objective is to not be screaming the motor so badly just to stay with traffic. It drives me nuts listening to it at 65 mph. Any MPG gain will be a bonus. If I had 355's I would not have a problem and would not need OD. Looked at doing that and it is cheaper, but I feel that would be too much with this motor and a 7500 pound weight on an all around basis. Will spend a lot of time putzing around the woods where the 410's will be nice. Just trying to figure out how to solve the RPM issue at a price I can afford. I feel like I am torturing the truck in traffic. thanks for the input, Larry
Have you figured money wise the gear vendors versus the E4OD? I thought it was close. I know you do not like the electronic transmission.
 

Black dawg

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It is true that T-slip is not linear but with my 410's I will still be in the same efficiency range. Od will put me at aprox 26-2700 at 65. Now I am at 3150 which roughly calculates out to 9-10% slippage. I looked up a slip calculator and even at 55 I should be at about 2000, and that should keep me in the 10% range. Would I like a lockup? Yes and no. I like the simplicity of the C6, and it is in perfect shape, has no electronics, known dependability. Money was no object I would switch to a manual, but money is an object. Main objective is to not be screaming the motor so badly just to stay with traffic. It drives me nuts listening to it at 65 mph. Any MPG gain will be a bonus. If I had 355's I would not have a problem and would not need OD. Looked at doing that and it is cheaper, but I feel that would be too much with this motor and a 7500 pound weight on an all around basis. Will spend a lot of time putzing around the woods where the 410's will be nice. Just trying to figure out how to solve the RPM issue at a price I can afford. I feel like I am torturing the truck in traffic. thanks for the input, Larry
Im sure you will get the results you are after at really light throttle and really flat ground. Add any load and it is pretty surprising how far an idi will push a c6 converter with the gear vendor engaged.

Add a trans temp gauge.
 
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