OD worth the $ ?

[Brian VT]

So I've had my IDI for 1 1/2 years. I'm not in love with it (yet?) but I'm pretty much committed to keeping it for the rest of my time on this planet.
I like the simplicity so that I can do many repairs myself. That is the main reason I bought it. I got fed up with sensors and computers and all that crap.
I don't like the stiff ride and the engine noise and the RPMs of the 3spd C6. I assume I'll have to live with the stiff ride since I bought an F250 instead of an F150. My next quest is to get the RPMs down when over 45mph.
It seems that my options are to switch to a ZF5, an E4OD, or add a GearVendors OD to my C6.
I would prefer to stay with auto. but I'm not opposed to manual. I don't work this truck hard at all (I probably should have bought an F150 gasser). I don't like electronics on machinery so I'd be nervous about that with the E4OD.

I won't be able to do any of this work myself.
Which option would be the best bang for my buck$ and which one would likely be the cheapest ?

Right now I'm leaning towards spending $3200 for a new GV OD (ouch) and then paying someone, I don't know how much, to install it.

1987 F250, 6.9 IDI N/A, Ext. cab, 4wd

 

[Nero]

GV would probably be best, switching to E4od is possible, but requires a lot more wires to run.

 

[u2slow]

I would change the axle ratio and/or increase tire size.

 

[Brian VT]

I would change the axle ratio.

That was my initial thought way back when.
But I think I was told that it would be a nightmare due to having 4wd?

 

[u2slow]

I have picked up a whole rear diff with a ttb front chunk for sub-$200 before.

If your truck has 4.10, then 3.54 is quite common. If you already have 3.54, then disregard.

 

[Austin86250]

E4od brings your truck into the sensor world, if you don’t haul at all then the gearvendors would be a great addition for your c6

Personally I hated the first gear ratio of my c6 so much it was alright empty but the second I had anything more than 1000 pounds in the bed or any trailer it would fall flat on it’s face

If your can get yourself fully on board with a manual zf5 is definitely the best it’s a bolt on swap besides drilling the firewall but the center punches are already there, it’s the second Most reliable Tranny that came behind the idi behind the t-19 of course and there’s no electronics unless you want to count the reverse sensor great first gear ratio not too low you never use it but still has a lot of torque for trailers up to 10k

 

[Old Goat]

I have a T-19, what is the reverse sensor?

A T-19 and a GV would work also.


Goat

 

[Nero]

@Austin86250 what part of the firewall needs drilled for a manual swap? My crew cab was originally an auto, when I swapped it, it had a plate where the clutch master went.

 

[Austin86250]

@Austin86250 what part of the firewall needs drilled for a manual swap? My crew cab was originally an auto, when I swapped it, it had a plate where the clutch master went.

For the clutch master, I teresting that you had a plate. Let me see if I have any auto firewall pics from before I drilled

Only found right after I drilled

 

[david85]

They all have problems. You just have to pick the one's you're willing to put up with.

I'm willing to put up with the E4OD but I did the rebuild (now on the 2nd build after 13 years) and programmed the controller myself.
ZF5 isn't actually the strongest transmission option (though I realize I might catch some flack for saying that). Syncros can wear out, the stock dual mass flywheels can fail, the aftermarket single mass flywheels can be noisy, and cases are known to crack.
C6 is cheap, bulletproof and easy to troubleshoot or rebuild.
The gear vendors option not cheap or simple, and will not produce a significant drop in RPM, due to torque converter slip.

If you really want overdrive and fuel economy, but don't want to spend a lot of money, the 5-speed is still the simplest solution.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

I have a T-19, what is the reverse sensor?

A T-19 and a GV would work also.


Goat

Reverse light switch.

For the clutch master, I teresting that you had a plate. Let me see if I have any auto firewall pics from before I drilled

Only found right after I drilled

The 80-82 aren't even center punched due to them using manual linkage. 83-86 are punched but not drilled. I am uncertain about the 87-91 as I have never had a auto cab in this style. The 92-97 have a removable plate.

James

 

[Nero]

Ahh, to clarify I have really only worked on bricknoses, and even all the ones at the wrecking yard I've seen over the years had a plate.

 

[Brian VT]

C6 is cheap, bulletproof and easy to troubleshoot or rebuild.
The gear vendors option not cheap or simple, and will not produce a significant drop in RPM, due to torque converter slip.

Bummer. That was the choice that I was leaning towards. I wasn't aware that the RPM change isn't significant.
Sounds like that would have been an expensive mistake.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

Bummer. That was the choice that I was leaning towards. I wasn't aware that the RPM change isn't significant.
Sounds like that would have been an expensive mistake.

This is because the drop in rpm combined with extra load allows more slippage of the converter. Also creates a lot more heat in the trans. In theory, the faster the converter spins the less slippage you get.

Is there any option for a lockup converter for the c6?

James

 

[Black dawg]

GV does definitely give a good rpm drop, but due to the sloppy factory converter it wont be as much as expected, especially with any kind of throttle input.

If you dont tow, 3.54 gears and c6 make a pretty driveable combo. If you do tow, zf5 and 4.10 make a pretty good combination also.