Need a IP Adjustment Tool

[nelstomlinson]

I have one of those pump rotator thingies. I'll try to trace it on graph paper for y'all.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I swear I found it like this!

No 3/4” square casting to grab. There is a notch under the top bolt on the casting that the Adjusting tool would grab. Can see it a bit better here. This is a “Champion Diesel” injection Pump.

Daaaaang...so they do exist! Must be a Canadian thing.

Yes I found those tools on EBay, last night. A little expensive especially with my Canadian dollar… I found this Blue Point SP442 on EBay, Price is right. I wonder if the handle will even fit in the van.

Considering just making on from the images. Could trace this to get a vector. Make a few sizes, laser cut out of wood, test fit the right one, WATERJET the final one.

I have the Garratt pulse and Light meter tho! ($500 CAD later….)

Wait...Mr. $70-is-too-pricey-for-me has a $500 timing setup and casually cuts out his own tools on a WATERJET?!?
That said, nice find on the $20 version!

How much leverage is needed when the IP is unbolted to move?

At times, I've found myself needing quite a lever to get it just right. You want to loosen all the IP and injector nuts first, then have a go with timing. Sometimes it's no big deal, sometimes the pump is near the end of it's range and it's hard to adjust.
I have a ~12" adjustable wrench I use, and that thing threatens to jump off the square casting from torque and the nature of adjustable wenches. I may just grab one of those $20 versions for my own timing purposes...

 

[parkergn]

I have one of those pump rotator thingies. I'll try to trace it on graph paper for y'all.

That would be awesome! Thanks

 

[nelstomlinson]

Here's a photo of my tracing. 5 squares per inch graph paper.

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[ROCK HARVEY]

I bet you could cut that shape out of a hardwood board like oak or maple and it would hold up just fine.

 

[Clb]

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Bump

 

[parkergn]

I bet you could cut that shape out of a hardwood board like oak or maple and it would hold up just fine.

Yes I cut a piece out of a hardwood plywood! Haven’t got a chance to use the tool yet. Thanks again @nelstomlinson for the tracing!!

Having issues with my Gunson* Pulse adapter and timing meter… I am getting inconsistent pulses from the tool. I have attempted many different IP lines and positions best I have is super close to the IP it self.

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I can slowly rev up to 2000 rpm but usually around 1500+ it glitches out and reads 5000-9000rpm….

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Has anyone found a trick to this? Kinda a pain to get too since the spot I found is under the Air Filter.

Works great below 1000 rpm

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[Old Goat]

The 2nd video I posted in post#30, he shows to connect to the
#1 Injector line near the Injector. Clean off the paint (sand) down
to clean metal. Then connect the Pezo adaptor to the clean metal.
He is using the Feritt timing set up, (NLA) .
I assume yours is similar?
The Feritt has a loop of wire the timing light clamps over. It
represents a Spark Plug Wire, to get the pulse of fuel being injected through the Hard Line.
Maybe if you move the clamp close to the Injector might work better. You want it on the straight piece of hard Line.

I haven`t looked at the one you have.
I have the Feritt, and it seems to jump around, and show high
RPM`s. I wipe down the sanded area after sanding it to get it as clean as possible, then as I turn up the Turn Buckle to kick up the Engine speed, it jumps to a super high RPM.
I get all my connections just right, she works perfect.


Goat

 

[MtnHaul]

I found my line clamp gave a better reading without the ground attached to anything. Sand the line clean, wipe it off and attach the little clamp. I think the instructions with the Tach n Time also suggest spraying some WD-40 on the line if a steady reading is difficult to obtain.

 

[parkergn]

Thanks for the replies! Someone realized that I have the pickup clamped on the line near the injector pump, rather then near the injectors them self!! Will try again this weekend

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I too, have the Ferret. The biggest issue is to have a FULLY CHARGED 9V BATTERY. This has bit me so many times...

It's really important to sand down the line, and the piezo clamp needs to be tighter than I'd like it to be. Takes some finger strength.

These boys have you on the right track. Interesting to leave the ground clamp off... I don't think I've ever tried that on purpose.

But also-- Is the RPM thing causing the reading to be way off? Like it's pulsing the light at 4700 rpms instead of 2k? I don't have a tach that tells me RPM so I just put two and two together on that.

 

[Old Goat]

I read on one post that a guy put the timing light clamp
over the "Loop" on the Ferrit the other way, and it worked
better.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I read on one post that a guy put the timing light clamp
over the "Loop" on the Ferrit the other way, and it worked
better.

I agree, mine is mislabeled, and I have to put the clamp on "backwards" to get a decent reading.

 

[parkergn]

Well the wooden one snapped trying to move the pump! Whipped up this metal guy in 10 mins using the wood as a template and works like a charm!

Now is it just me or does the thing only advance the pump? Guess I just push the pump by hand to retard eh

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[DaveBen]

You can't turn it over to retard the timing?