my 7.3 build, part 1?

[jam0o0]

ok back from the dead.

good news:
-B&W turnover ball installed. man is that thing well thought out.
-40 gallon in bed tank is in.
-electric pump is in and working. the fuse and relay for the pump are in the factory engine bay fuse box. using factory connectors and wires from a junk yard truck.
-i've got a 5 micron filter before the pump. all mounted below the fuel level in the front tank. 3/8" fuel line all the way from the tank to the high pressure pump.

bad news:
-i get fuel pressure into the input of the moose pump. but no fuel to the return line on top of the pump. and no fuel to the injectors. this is after a minute of cranking. should it take this long to get the high pressure pump filled up? the shut off solenoid is getting power. that is what i'm using for the trigger for the electric lift pump.

help. i'm out of ideas.

 

[icanfixall]

Yes. The pump filling can be slow. Did you hold the throttle wide open and the electric pump was running... Or are you using only the mechanical lift pump.

 

[jam0o0]

i had the throttle at idle and let the electric run for a few minutes. then i tried cranking it to get fuel through the high pressure pump. i get no fuel past the high pressure pump. do i need to crank with the throttle floored? i thought i didn't need to do that with an electric lift pump.

 

[idi traveler]

If you unplug the wire connecting to the fuel shut off solenoid and connect it back do you hear the solenoid click?

 

[War Wagon]

If you unplug the wire connecting to the fuel shut off solenoid and connect it back do you hear the solenoid click?

I was thinking the same thing. Need to make the sure the fuel shut off solenoid is working. Make sure it has key on power and that if you jump power to it that it clicks.

 

[jam0o0]

i know it's got power. i tested that. but i didn't test the solenoid to see if it responds. thanks guys. update tonight.

 

[jam0o0]

ok i tested the solenoid. it makes noise. then i tried purging the system again. in 10 seconds i had fuel at all the injectors. i think the truck was just testing me. it tried to start even without glow plugs. i got a big face full of smoke since the up pipe was on. lol

got the hoses for the in bed tank hooked up. got the turbo on.

i wanna change the oil input line going to the turbo. the hard line on mine is really rusty and the rubber seals are hard and making it very difficult to to attach. i assume any t04b oil fitting will work. so i just need to know what kinda restricter i need and what the fitting is on the block side.

so pictures this weekend. it's so close to driveable.

 

[hesutton]

Sweet man. Sounds like you're almost ready to put some test miles on it. You're gonna love the Moose fuel. What did you do with your CDR? If I missed it before sorry.

Heath

 

[jam0o0]

hesutton: yu didn't miss it. i was gunna run it to the downpipe right before it expands to from 3" to 4". i'm not sure there is gunna be enough exhaust gas velocity to pull all the fumes out of the crankcase. once i get it running i'll make a judgement. if i go that way i'll have a check valve. this is the way a lot of the mud racer guys do it.

then i started looking into what 1/4 mile, gas, turbo, daily drivers do. and a bunch of them have vacuum pumps to keep a vacuum in the crank case all the time. it's suppost to help with ring seal amoung other things. the super budget way to do this is to pull a belt driven emissions pump off a 90's f150. i happen to have one on my parts shelf.

then i thought, wait there is already a vacuum pump on this engine. so i'm gunna rig a catch can with a filter and run the vacuum pump that way. i'll have a gauge hooked up to see if the pump can keep up. also i'll need a vacuum regulator valve. i'm not sure the max vacuum i can run in the crank case is gunna be enough to keep my vacuum brakes working like i want.

the next cheapest way to do this is to get an electric vacuum pump for a ford car. it's not really what i want to do. the last option in my opinion is to run the cdr to the intake through a catch can. my turbo was full of oil when i pulled it. and i got literally a quart of oil out of my superduty intercooler. so i'm not real fond of ford's way of solving this

more info that you wanted right? lol if anyone wants part number or aplications for all this stuff i have them.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

where did you get your 3" v-bands?

 

[jam0o0]

'94: most likely summitracing.com or siliconeintakes.com . wherever it was they lied about the bands being stainless. the clamp is but the bands aren't.

updates: new oil line in the mail. should be here tomorrow. all i have let before first start is to get the fuel return to bypass the tank select valve.

then i need to get all the gauges hooked up before the first long drive with the trailer. hopefully i can do a test run the second weekend in april.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

'94: most likely summitracing.com or siliconeintakes.com . wherever it was they lied about the bands being stainless. the clamp is but the bands aren't.

thanks for the info.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

i found the v-bands
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=10&products_id=319&osCsid=ff816c87cb515e0e3e8e4eff255c216e

 

[jam0o0]

made a new oil feed line. black aluminum AN fittings and braided steel hose with teflon liner.

routed the fuel return to the front tank.

got the aux tank vent and other plumbing secured.

got a new tool box installed.

it runs! still sounds funny to me. i haven't heard it run in a wile so i need a sanity check. still trying to get a good audio sample. it sounds like a random slap. only at idle really. the intake is open and the exhaust is much more open than before and the CDR is open. so maybe one of those is letting more sound out than normal.

got to re-run the plumbing for my gauges. the last line was too short. truck is getting closer.

found a guy in town who has the right timing equipment.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

i just cut my exhaust outlet this after noon. i did the Altoids box method like you did. then i decided to cut some more off and i cut at the "line" on the casting where is starts to really neck down to the factory v-band flange.

i just need to do some grinding to touch up my cut. then weld the 3" v-band on.