Fuel tank questions

gdubyah76

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I have 1 fuel tank that always reads empty regardless of fuel level & the other one runs out of fuel when the gauge shows around 1/4 tank left. I've done a bunch of reading & I think I know what my problems are. I'm planning on pulling the bed & replacing the float, sender unit, & shower head from LMC on both tanks since they'll both be easily accessible. My questions are : 1) does this pretty much fix the problems I'm having & 2) is there anything else I should order for this type of job?
 

riotwarrior

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1/4 tank issue is shower head...read search all about itbhere...hundreds of threads on it.

Sending unit is likely the issue for other tank.

Have fun...
 

Kizer

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It sounds to me like you're on the right track. Clean your tanks out while you're in there. Maybe blow the lines out, if you find that the shower heads have deteriorated. I believe that there are a couple of threads regarding shower head "delete" / DIY shower head.
 
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gdubyah76

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While I've got everything torn apart is there anything I can do to make the tanks take fuel (while filling up) any better?
 

BDCarrillo

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Cut the tubes in the filler neck shorter. About even with the tank inlet
 

icanfixall

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The big issue with filling our tanks is they wont take fuel fast nor can we use the big rig diesel nozzles. Inside the fill neck you can see a cad plated tube. At the top of that tube is a small hole. ALL the air being forced out of the tank MUST flow out thru that small hole. If you can use a small burr grinder or a dremel grinder you can open up this hole. Just double or triple the size. then air in the tanks can get out easier. Now this wont fix the issue with using the high pressure high flow big rig nozzles. You will have to remove that complete tube inside the fill neck. then modify the top of the fuel tank roll over valve and run a new line up to very near the top of the fill neck. Its called harpooning the tanks. Lots of information if you search for it. Or you can try cutting away the inside tube down far enough to allow the big nozzles to fit. Just remember that fuel goes down the smaller inside tube and the outside is where the air flows out from.
 

gdubyah76

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I've never even attempted to use the big rig nozzles on this truck. I learned 20+ years ago on some IDI trucks where I used to work that those things wouldn't even get a squirt out without kicking off or spewing diesel. It just would be really nice to at least be able to use the lowest click setting at ALL of the gas stations without having to babysit or rotate the nozzle upside down while filling. Thanks for the info everyone.
 

franklin2

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On the fuel sending units, I would wire them up and check them with the key on before installing them. Just to double check they are working correctly, especially at empty. I would make note of what the dash gauge reads when the float is resting on the stop, that's when the gauge will stop reading and the fuel under that is your reserve.

Don't be surprised if the fuel readings have their quirks as you are using fuel from the tanks. By that I mean it might stay on full for a long time and then drop fast. Or it drop from full and then slow down in the middle of the gauge and then speed up again. This is just the nature of the beast, just so empty is accurate.

On the filling problem, what cured my filling problem was to take the roll-over valve out of the top of each tank, install a copper elbow that fit the rubber grommet, and then slip large rubber hose over the other end of the elbow and run it from the tank. I ran it up inbetween the bed and the outside body and tied it up and put a screen over the end to keep the bugs out. I did this for both tanks, make sure you use a tight elbow for the rear tank as it is smashed pretty close to the bottom of the bed. This has worked well for me, I can pump as fast as I want to, and even use the big truck nozzles, though I can't go wide open with one of them.

The only thing I have noticed is a little bit of foam will spit out of the hose when the tank fills up and cuts the station nozzle off.
 

gdubyah76

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Bed is off! I only had to cut/grind 1 of the 8 bed bolts off & will have to deal with a small rats nest of wires from where 3 different trailer plugs were added at some point. Pulled both sender units to diagnose issues & found - Front tank) float is a round metal one which just so happened to be nearly full of diesel from a tiny hairline crack. I'm assuming its the showerhead? fell off of pick up tube as soon as I pulled sender unit out. Rear tank) Float is a plastic? rectangle unlike the front one but it was working fine. No shower head present at all.
I'm going to be draining the tanks so I can clean them out & look for the pieces that are MIA. In the meantime I want to go ahead & order new sender units & floats (Deleting the showerheads!) for both tanks since I've got everything this far. I've done a little looking on LMC's site & I can only find 1 sender unit for my year model. Are the front & rear senders the same? Or is there somewhere better to get these parts?
Thanks for any & all help.
 

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franklin2

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Some of the sending units are tough to find. Some people have resorted to rigging other units in place. The front and the rear sending units are different. I see you found a simple problem with your front unit. Ford or whoever designed these things had the great idea to "paint" the resistance material on a circuit board, and let the wiper arm in the unit rub on this to give the reading. Of course over time the "paint" wears off. In the old days they used a wire wound resistance unit.
 

madpogue

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TEST the sending units before replacing. If the sending unit had failed, most likely the gauge would read way past full (infinite resistance). More likely you just have a float that's sodden with fuel, and the float is available separately.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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+1 on checking the senders as the floats are available and very inexpensive by comparison.

Nice job on removing the bed ;Sweet
 

gdubyah76

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Thanks everyone for your input. After doing some interweb research I think just going to R&R the sender units I have. Will be replacing the non-floating float & doing the shower head delete on both tanks. Will also probably do the vent upgrade to help with fill ups too. Now on to the new downpipe & 4" exhaust!
 

gdubyah76

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By the way does this look like all the pieces for a complete shower head? I dug the same thing out of each tank & couldn't see anything else in either tank. Best I could tell by a few pictures on the Internet they're all there. No broken off teats or anything.

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