Kevo1288
Full Access Member
Bronco tank in the rear and no dual tank up front? I was thinking this as well. Sucks having a fuel door that doesn't get used but hey screw dealing with headaches.
For guys with the carter p4070
- Thread starter Mike_42
- Start date
Bronco tank in the rear and no dual tank up front? I was thinking this as well. Sucks having a fuel door that doesn't get used but hey screw dealing with headaches.
One of the best things I ever did was the 38 gallon tank. I've always hated the dual tank Chevy/Ford set ups. Also, I've really started liking Racor (Parker Hannifin) stuff, but boy is it expensive for what you get. I wouldn't use them if I wasn't able to get it for prices I can. My fuel filter head also has an electric pump built in (Racor 700 series). It puts out 15 PSI and flows 47 gph and is rated for continuous duty. Racor also has a PWM controlled brushless version but it gets very pricey and only flows 63 gph. I have it wired to a switch so if my main pump (p4070) goes out I can run the Racor until I get home. I do have the water sensor and it is hooked up to my stock dash water in fuel light so it all functions as normal.
True, the second door never gets used but my truck needs a paint job so I might cut it out, weld in a filler, if I ever get it painted.
True, the second door never gets used but my truck needs a paint job so I might cut it out, weld in a filler, if I ever get it painted.
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Kevo1288
Full Access Member
That's awesome man, maybe for my winter project ill get a 38 gallon tank and build a fuel system.
Frstdiesel
Full Access Member
Mr Gerlbaum, you ordered a 38 gal tank with same year model as your truck?
What about sending unit? Did you do any mods to it?
How did you run your return line?
I have a 1984 F250 I want to convert to the 38 gal as there are issues with both of the factory tanks.
Thanks
What about sending unit? Did you do any mods to it?
How did you run your return line?
I have a 1984 F250 I want to convert to the 38 gal as there are issues with both of the factory tanks.
Thanks
My truck is a '87. I ordered a Spectra brand off ebay since they were $87 with free shipping. They come with a lock ring and pick up extension (really just 3/8 copper pipe). They are diesel safe if someone is worried about galvanizing on the tank (see my post at #19 here https://www.oilburners.net/threads/which-33-38-gallon-rear-tank.80843/page-2#post-996216).
My sending unit was f'ed. So I ordered a new one. Another ebay special. Just searched "1987 ford sending unit diesel". They are $96.
I also ordered a new vent to put in the new tank.
It's hard to visualize until you actually do it, but what you do is take your sending unit and cut the pick up pipe. Then you solder in the extension that comes with the tank. Put the pick up and extension in the tank and with a flashlight shining in the vent hole, look in the filler hole and see how close the pick up is to the bottom, etc..., and adjust as necessary by bending.
I also suggest buying some Goop and when do the final assembly of the lock right/pick up. Seal the pick up and lock ring to the tank. I didn't the first time and it leaked out the top and I had to redrop the tank when it was low on fuel and seal it back up. It wasn't as low as I thought and I had to bench press the tank a few times until I could get the bolts in. PIA to do yourself.
I also went the extra expense of converting the suction/return pipes on the sending unit to AN. One of the pipes is 5/16 to AN 6 (return) and the other is 3/8 to AN 6 (suction). See link below. I wanted to be sure I wasn't sucking any air. I went from the AN to a compression fitting on 3/8 steel brake line. 90% of my return and feed line is 3/8 steel brake line. The only rubber is a few inches to the pre filter, pre filter to pump, and out the pump. Then there is 3 feet from the fuel/water on the frame to the back of the injection pump.
I just bought a use 3/8 bender so I am going to bend customer lines to remove all the rubber and use only compression fittings (I use stainless from Surplus Center steel not brass). I might keep a short run to the IP but I want steel for anything by the engine. For insurance, I also add a bit of Goop to the compression fittings.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ztxaoDcmcGzWCROvFkmi3C4dZlj3h7OxoCUn4QAvD_BwE
Racor has some nice looking push lock line. It is used on aircraft so I am sure you would never have a leak nor would "go bad" like rubber fuel line. However it is expensive, like $2 a foot. Steel brake like cost me $20 for the whole truck, feed and return line. The Racor line would have been over $100. You could also use aluminum vs steel; jegs sells 25' of 3/8 aluminum for $30 or something like that. I used steel because they sell it at the auto parts store but steel is a SOB to bend.
Frstdiesel
Full Access Member
Wow!!
Awesome job!!
That's along the lines of what I want to do.
I'm all about "do it once, do it right, and make it fail proof" (as best as possible)
Thanks for the detailed write up.
Awesome job!!
That's along the lines of what I want to do.
I'm all about "do it once, do it right, and make it fail proof" (as best as possible)
Thanks for the detailed write up.
Greg when you get a chance, could you start a separate thread with some pics and descriptions of how you did the single tank conversion, I think it’s tech article worthy, and would save a lot of people from the dual tank blues with forking out the big bucks for selector valves.
Frstdiesel
Full Access Member
Awesome!!!
Can't wait!!
Can't wait!!
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