Diego Revisited
- Thread starter chillman88
- Start date
That's what I was thinking, but I couldn't remember for sure.
Had that happen on my old Silverado. Immediately pulled the fuse out for the ABS and never looked back. When I replaced the brake lines I plumbed in a proportioning valve from an earlier year truck and bypassed the rest of that crap completely.
I seem to remember that, however if I'm running a new rear line I'll just remove the ABS valve entirely and run a line straight from the master cylinder back. Pretty sure only the rear is tied into the ABS on this one.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Yes. Our trucks only had rear ABS. Of course that's not the Bull Noses which didn't have any.
This plus Selahdoor's experience just give weight to my saying "we're safetying ourselves to death". I've been saying that since the mid 90's.
I thought about doing the same. Whole new line all the way back. MC to rear axle.
I gave up on trying to convince myself to run a new line from the master cylinder back to the rear axle. Yesterday I got the rear brakes ALMOST done before a sudden thunderstorm hit. No sprinkles or anything just BAM downpour.
Today I finished that part and started bleeding.
I was going to hold off on the master cylinder until I decided to conquer that long line, but the brakes still sucked so I swapped it out today.
Upgraded from a 1-1/8 bore master cylinder to a 1-1/4 bore for a little bit more oomph. I also disassembled the proportioning valve on the side of the master cylinder and cleaned out the gunk that had built up over time.
New NiCopp lines on the axle. The old ones weren't as bad as they looked, but now's the time to change them.
I upgraded from the 1" bore wheel cylinders to the 1-1/8 cylinders from a 97. That proved slightly annoying as the 97 changed from the 3/8-24 fittings that the 90 used, to 7/16-24. This wouldn't have been as frustrating but I had already made the new hard lines, so I just bought some adapters. They also changed from 5/16" bolts to 8mm so I had to buy new bolts.
I was trying to bleed everything and flush the old nasty fluid out but the rain started to come back.
Hopefully all I have left to do is bleed everything well. The booster was used when I swapped it out a couple years ago, but I don't THINK that's causing the poor pedal.
Regardless, new shoes, hardware, and drums in the rear. Should stop now!
Today I finished that part and started bleeding.
I was going to hold off on the master cylinder until I decided to conquer that long line, but the brakes still sucked so I swapped it out today.
Upgraded from a 1-1/8 bore master cylinder to a 1-1/4 bore for a little bit more oomph. I also disassembled the proportioning valve on the side of the master cylinder and cleaned out the gunk that had built up over time.
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New NiCopp lines on the axle. The old ones weren't as bad as they looked, but now's the time to change them.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
I upgraded from the 1" bore wheel cylinders to the 1-1/8 cylinders from a 97. That proved slightly annoying as the 97 changed from the 3/8-24 fittings that the 90 used, to 7/16-24. This wouldn't have been as frustrating but I had already made the new hard lines, so I just bought some adapters. They also changed from 5/16" bolts to 8mm so I had to buy new bolts.
I was trying to bleed everything and flush the old nasty fluid out but the rain started to come back.
Hopefully all I have left to do is bleed everything well. The booster was used when I swapped it out a couple years ago, but I don't THINK that's causing the poor pedal.
Regardless, new shoes, hardware, and drums in the rear. Should stop now!
Last edited:
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
That's some fine brake work. Are all those upgrades(wheel cylinder/master cylinder) basically bolt on things? Other than adapting the fitting size on the cylinders.
Thanks!
The larger master cylinder is a direct fit. Nothing needed to be changed, just had to swap the proportioning valve from the old master cylinder to the new one. I bought the ACDelco unit from RockAuto because it actually listed bore size and it wasn't an unknown brand either.
The wheel cylinders required new M8x1.25 12mm long bolts (would have preferred 15mm long) with lock washers and different fittings or adapter fittings. Everything else was direct fit. I could have even reused the old lines with the adapters if I'd been so inclined.
So short answer is yes. Nothing had to be modified to fit. Dually trucks had slightly larger (1-3/16) wheel cylinders, but I've heard mixed reviews on whether or not they'll fit. (Although I don't know why they wouldn't...)
Both the master cylinder and wheel cylinders were ordered for a 1997 F350 7.3 SRW with 3" rear brakes. There were other size master cylinders available so make sure you know the bore size before you buy it.
Worth noting, this truck still has the vacuum booster for the brakes and this master cylinder fit. The hydroboost trucks had slightly different spacing on the studs and I think some of them might have had a different pilot diameter where the master cylinder mounts up so you can't just take a hydroboost master cylinder and put it on a vacuum booster.
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
Sweet, might consider such things on the next go around. I never liked the hydro boost, I don't like how you can feel the steering through the brake pedal. Obviously our vacuum pumps have their problems, but I'd rather deal with them.
I like the hydroboost, have it on my Chevy and on my dually. Just couldn't justify the expense for this truck. Still have a few things I need to do to this truck, the steering on the dually is so much better than this truck lol.
I found a little bit of motivation this morning so I decided not to waste it. I was planning on running the copper/nickel line from the front to the back, but I had just enough of the Teflon coated steel line left for the job so I used that instead. That way I can save the good stuff for Tank.
Here's my solution to the ABS delete.
The front line from the master to the ABS module was fine. Looking at it closely it'll probably last as long as the lines I just did lol.
I pulled that line off, cut the old fitting off and put a regular 3/8-24 fitting on. Then I blew it out with solvent, then air, then put a union on it and put it back in. Ran a new line to the rear axle and replaced the rubber hose too. Then just attached it to the old front line at the union. No fancy bends to make or anything because the only line I actually replaced today was just a straight run with a 90 at each end!
I think I made the right choice. The old line wasn't going to fail immediately, but it didn't have very long either. Another year or two maybe.
Never in a million years though I'd see a factory tag with the factory part number on a brake line!!!
Brakes are rock hard engine off. They still sink a little bit when running, but I might still have air in the front lines. When I removed the driver front bleeder to put some anti-seize on it the threads are all rolled over. Maybe someone forced a 5/16 bleeder into an M8 hole? It's tight now, but I don't think I'll trust it very long. I'll bleed the fronts again when I fix that.
Here's my solution to the ABS delete.
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The front line from the master to the ABS module was fine. Looking at it closely it'll probably last as long as the lines I just did lol.
I pulled that line off, cut the old fitting off and put a regular 3/8-24 fitting on. Then I blew it out with solvent, then air, then put a union on it and put it back in. Ran a new line to the rear axle and replaced the rubber hose too. Then just attached it to the old front line at the union. No fancy bends to make or anything because the only line I actually replaced today was just a straight run with a 90 at each end!
I think I made the right choice. The old line wasn't going to fail immediately, but it didn't have very long either. Another year or two maybe.
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Never in a million years though I'd see a factory tag with the factory part number on a brake line!!!
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Brakes are rock hard engine off. They still sink a little bit when running, but I might still have air in the front lines. When I removed the driver front bleeder to put some anti-seize on it the threads are all rolled over. Maybe someone forced a 5/16 bleeder into an M8 hole? It's tight now, but I don't think I'll trust it very long. I'll bleed the fronts again when I fix that.
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
Here's my automobile philosophy:
1. Is it cool?
2. Will it run?
3. Will it go?
4. Will it stop?
#1 is the most important, #4 is the next most important but doesn't matter if the answer to #2and3 are "no". But I can appreciate a crappy running truck if it stops good.
That's pretty wild that that tag survived.
1. Is it cool?
2. Will it run?
3. Will it go?
4. Will it stop?
#1 is the most important, #4 is the next most important but doesn't matter if the answer to #2and3 are "no". But I can appreciate a crappy running truck if it stops good.
That's pretty wild that that tag survived.
A while back in this thread (I think?) I noted that the lower bolts on the rear shocks were egged out from not being properly torqued, and the sleeve had scrubbed against the inside and buggered that up so there wasn't anything to snug up against.
Today I turned the first piece I've ever turned by myself on the lathe I bought earlier this year.
It's just a prototype right now to see if my guesstimate measurements were close enough but I'm thrilled simply because I made it by myself and didn't have to pay someone else to do it.
The shock bolts are M12 and these holes are 1/2". We're going to find out if I want to be really fussy or if it's close enough
The smaller OD is 5/8 which I'm hoping is enough to clean up where the sleeve wore out the inside of the mount.
The larger OD is a little bit under 1" so it should be a good flat spot for the bolt head and give me a decent lip to weld against the shock mount.
Both of the steps are just barely over 7/32 which is about the thickness of the shock bracket.
Way more work than welding the holes up and redrilling, but why would I do it the easy way???
Today I turned the first piece I've ever turned by myself on the lathe I bought earlier this year.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
It's just a prototype right now to see if my guesstimate measurements were close enough but I'm thrilled simply because I made it by myself and didn't have to pay someone else to do it.
The shock bolts are M12 and these holes are 1/2". We're going to find out if I want to be really fussy or if it's close enough
The smaller OD is 5/8 which I'm hoping is enough to clean up where the sleeve wore out the inside of the mount.
The larger OD is a little bit under 1" so it should be a good flat spot for the bolt head and give me a decent lip to weld against the shock mount.
Both of the steps are just barely over 7/32 which is about the thickness of the shock bracket.
Way more work than welding the holes up and redrilling, but why would I do it the easy way???
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
All I can say, is "it's beautiful". I'm glad to just weld a bit, but ....but....but..... creating your own bushings, that's beautiful....
hacked89
Full Access Member
Man that's niceA while back in this thread (I think?) I noted that the lower bolts on the rear shocks were egged out from not being properly torqued, and the sleeve had scrubbed against the inside and buggered that up so there wasn't anything to snug up against.
Today I turned the first piece I've ever turned by myself on the lathe I bought earlier this year.
You must be registered for see images attachYou must be registered for see images attachYou must be registered for see images attach
It's just a prototype right now to see if my guesstimate measurements were close enough but I'm thrilled simply because I made it by myself and didn't have to pay someone else to do it.
The shock bolts are M12 and these holes are 1/2". We're going to find out if I want to be really fussy or if it's close enough
The smaller OD is 5/8 which I'm hoping is enough to clean up where the sleeve wore out the inside of the mount.
The larger OD is a little bit under 1" so it should be a good flat spot for the bolt head and give me a decent lip to weld against the shock mount.
Both of the steps are just barely over 7/32 which is about the thickness of the shock bracket.
Way more work than welding the holes up and redrilling, but why would I do it the easy way???
I left the truck on jack stands last night in case it decided not to rain today. I was hoping to get working on the rear shocks. This morning through the drizzle I put it down so I could run it to town.
I don't think the rear brakes have been working for a while now it stops when I push the pedal. No more braking early and hoping it slows down. Definitely happy!
The passenger rear wheel cylinder had been weeping for a while. The fluid was brown, and there was rust inside the proportioning valve. I can't imagine the ABS unit looked very good inside either. I flushed all the old fluid completely except for maybe the front brakes that I still need to fix that bleed screw.
All said and done, definitely made a dramatic difference and I'm not afraid of hooking up the trailer anymore.
I don't think the rear brakes have been working for a while
now it stops when I push the pedal. No more braking early and hoping it slows down. Definitely happy!The passenger rear wheel cylinder had been weeping for a while. The fluid was brown, and there was rust inside the proportioning valve. I can't imagine the ABS unit looked very good inside either. I flushed all the old fluid completely except for maybe the front brakes that I still need to fix that bleed screw.
All said and done, definitely made a dramatic difference and I'm not afraid of hooking up the trailer anymore.
