The proportioning valve on that truck was up by the MC not tied to the rabs.
I had problems with the truck not wanting to stop, before I did that. Zero problems either way, since then.
Sucker almost killed me twice, with the rabs. I hate that crap. Let ME decide when I want to stop, and in what kind of distance.
By the way, I also posted here somewhere, a way to bypass the rabs valve, internally.
Yes. Our trucks only had rear ABS. Of course that's not the Bull Noses which didn't have any.Pretty sure only the rear is tied into the ABS on this one.
This plus Selahdoor's experience just give weight to my saying "we're safetying ourselves to death". I've been saying that since the mid 90's.Had that happen on my old Silverado. Immediately pulled the fuse out for the ABS and never looked back. When I replaced the brake lines I plumbed in a proportioning valve from an earlier year truck and bypassed the rest of that crap completely.
I thought about doing the same. Whole new line all the way back. MC to rear axle.I seem to remember that, however if I'm running a new rear line I'll just remove the ABS valve entirely and run a line straight from the master cylinder back. Pretty sure only the rear is tied into the ABS on this one.
That's some fine brake work. Are all those upgrades(wheel cylinder/master cylinder) basically bolt on things? Other than adapting the fitting size on the cylinders.
Sweet, might consider such things on the next go around. I never liked the hydro boost, I don't like how you can feel the steering through the brake pedal. Obviously our vacuum pumps have their problems, but I'd rather deal with them.Thanks!
The larger master cylinder is a direct fit. Nothing needed to be changed, just had to swap the proportioning valve from the old master cylinder to the new one. I bought the ACDelco unit from RockAuto because it actually listed bore size and it wasn't an unknown brand either.
The wheel cylinders required new M8x1.25 12mm long bolts (would have preferred 15mm long) with lock washers and different fittings or adapter fittings. Everything else was direct fit. I could have even reused the old lines with the adapters if I'd been so inclined.
So short answer is yes. Nothing had to be modified to fit. Dually trucks had slightly larger (1-3/16) wheel cylinders, but I've heard mixed reviews on whether or not they'll fit. (Although I don't know why they wouldn't...)
Both the master cylinder and wheel cylinders were ordered for a 1997 F350 7.3 SRW with 3" rear brakes. There were other size master cylinders available so make sure you know the bore size before you buy it.
Worth noting, this truck still has the vacuum booster for the brakes and this master cylinder fit. The hydroboost trucks had slightly different spacing on the studs and I think some of them might have had a different pilot diameter where the master cylinder mounts up so you can't just take a hydroboost master cylinder and put it on a vacuum booster.
Sweet, might consider such things on the next go around. I never liked the hydro boost, I don't like how you can feel the steering through the brake pedal. Obviously our vacuum pumps have their problems, but I'd rather deal with them.
Man that's niceA while back in this thread (I think?) I noted that the lower bolts on the rear shocks were egged out from not being properly torqued, and the sleeve had scrubbed against the inside and buggered that up so there wasn't anything to snug up against.
Today I turned the first piece I've ever turned by myself on the lathe I bought earlier this year.
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It's just a prototype right now to see if my guesstimate measurements were close enough but I'm thrilled simply because I made it by myself and didn't have to pay someone else to do it.
The shock bolts are M12 and these holes are 1/2". We're going to find out if I want to be really fussy or if it's close enough
The smaller OD is 5/8 which I'm hoping is enough to clean up where the sleeve wore out the inside of the mount.
The larger OD is a little bit under 1" so it should be a good flat spot for the bolt head and give me a decent lip to weld against the shock mount.
Both of the steps are just barely over 7/32 which is about the thickness of the shock bracket.
Way more work than welding the holes up and redrilling, but why would I do it the easy way???