Diego Revisited
- Thread starter chillman88
- Start date
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
It better, if it looks BAD from your house I REALLY need to fix it
Just remember one of my favorite quotes from AvE
"Grinder and paint, make me the welder I ain't"
"Grinder and paint, make me the welder I ain't"
It's looking good Chris!
Wondered why my alternator light was flickering....
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Even with the sound all the way up, I couldn't hear much in the first video, but I sure could hear the dry/bad bearings in the side view one.
Yeah not a whole lot of noise but a definite light wobble. I think it's just starting to go out, and not critical yet.
I was going to swap the alternator from Tank until I got it on and remembered that alternator needs a different belt, so I just put the old one back on. Didn't feel like messing with all the other belts on both trucks just to make a temporary fix.
I think after I get another alternator I'll probably try to swap the internals from Tank's alternator into this case because I think the belt issue is the case dimensions. I think Tank's alternator came from a Taurus and I had to reclock it to make everything fit correctly. It's been a while so I don't remember for sure.
I was going to swap the alternator from Tank until I got it on and remembered that alternator needs a different belt, so I just put the old one back on. Didn't feel like messing with all the other belts on both trucks just to make a temporary fix.
I think after I get another alternator I'll probably try to swap the internals from Tank's alternator into this case because I think the belt issue is the case dimensions. I think Tank's alternator came from a Taurus and I had to reclock it to make everything fit correctly. It's been a while so I don't remember for sure.
Got the new alternator installed. I'm not completely happy with the quality, but it'll do for now. The new pulley is 1/2" smaller than the old one so there's no adjustment left in the belt now. I would swap the pulley, but it would void the warranty so I'll just leave it be, at least for a few months to make sure I don't have an early failure.
Old alternator has a couple small loose pieces inside, I'll post pictures whenever I tear it apart.
Has anyone ordered from here before?
alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com
They have a rebuild kit for $35 +$9 shipping. Sounds like a good price to rebuild my old one.
Old alternator has a couple small loose pieces inside, I'll post pictures whenever I tear it apart.
Has anyone ordered from here before?
Home - Alternator Starter Rebuild Kits
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alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com
They have a rebuild kit for $35 +$9 shipping. Sounds like a good price to rebuild my old one.
Reggie f250
Full Access Member
I ordered their 3g high output rebuild kit. It had everything I needed. That was in December of 2020 and it's working great.
I'm going to post this in Tank's thread but for continuity sake I'll reply to you here.
The old spare you put on when the lady hit you has a date code of "3814" (38th week of 2014) and the Firestones you bought have a date code of "3416" (34th week of 2016).
They're already 6 years old, although no telling how long they sat in the warehouse, time certainly does fly!
It sure does! How's the old boy doing?
Pretty good except the steering shaft is pretty shot so it likes to wander a bit more than I'm comfortable with. I've been driving Tank for the last month or so since getting it fixed up. Hoping to try the steering shaft from the parts truck and see how much difference that makes.
I was surprised to find out the u-joint up near the column is actually bad. First time I've seen that wear out on anything.
The brakes have been pretty pathetic as of late, and the pedal was sinking no matter how many times I pumped it. Didn't act like a blown line and no fluid I could see so I decided to order a new master cylinder even though the one on the truck wasn't very old and might as well replace the wheel cylinders while I'm at it. Parts showed up a few days ago. Today I jacked it up and see the shoes.....
And LOTS of brake dust, along with scored drums.
So I'll be ordering shoes and seeing if I can get the drums turned.
Hardware kit pricing is a joke!
Yes I know I'm ordering a spare hardware kit. I've had them show up split open and missing pieces so better safe than sorry at that price.
I was already prepared to replace the rear axle lines just in case. Living in the rust belt they look questionable already and better to fix it now instead of waiting for them to blow out in the snow. I think I'm going to buy a new rear hose (even though that's not too old either) and just replace from the master cylinder rearward.
If I replace the rear axle lines alone that framerail line will be the next weak spot. Better to get it done now.
Thoughts on bypassing the ABS unit entirely? I'm considering it, has anyone on here regretted bypassing it? I've bypassed the ABS on all my other vehicles so that's not a concern really, the only thing I'm worried about is if the proportioning valve is integrated and will give me fits locking up rear tires if I remove it.
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And LOTS of brake dust, along with scored drums.
You must be registered for see images attach
So I'll be ordering shoes and seeing if I can get the drums turned.
Hardware kit pricing is a joke!
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Yes I know I'm ordering a spare hardware kit. I've had them show up split open and missing pieces so better safe than sorry at that price.
I was already prepared to replace the rear axle lines just in case. Living in the rust belt they look questionable already and better to fix it now instead of waiting for them to blow out in the snow. I think I'm going to buy a new rear hose (even though that's not too old either) and just replace from the master cylinder rearward.
If I replace the rear axle lines alone that framerail line will be the next weak spot. Better to get it done now.
Thoughts on bypassing the ABS unit entirely? I'm considering it, has anyone on here regretted bypassing it? I've bypassed the ABS on all my other vehicles so that's not a concern really, the only thing I'm worried about is if the proportioning valve is integrated and will give me fits locking up rear tires if I remove it.
hacked89
Full Access Member
On my 89 srw I bypassed the rabs with the bypass from an f super duty without issue drove it about 120 miles to test it, I know that’s not much but wanted to make sure you know the scope of testing. The proportioning valve on that truck was up by the MC not tied to the rabs.
I physically completely bypassed the rabs valve. Then unplugged the module that is behind the glove box.
I have had zero problems.
In fact, I had problems with the truck not wanting to stop, before I did that. Zero problems either way, since then.
Sucker almost killed me twice, with the rabs. I hate that crap. Let ME decide when I want to stop, and in what kind of distance.
It's like getting the blue screen of death, because someone else has decided they know better than you, how things should operate... Only the result could actually BE death!
I have had zero problems.
In fact, I had problems with the truck not wanting to stop, before I did that. Zero problems either way, since then.
Sucker almost killed me twice, with the rabs. I hate that crap. Let ME decide when I want to stop, and in what kind of distance.
It's like getting the blue screen of death, because someone else has decided they know better than you, how things should operate... Only the result could actually BE death!
