Been a chase . Cativation etc

Joshsarah14

Registered User
Joined
Apr 11, 2024
Posts
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Va
Hello I have a 1993 Ford 7.3 IDI automatic transmission been working on this truck almost 2 years here and there truck runs great. Has plenty of power was using it daily and started noticing I was losing coolant and further along. I noticed I was getting oil in my coolant so you know I rebuilt the oil cooler did not help then started tearing the engine apart took the heads off, took them to an old machine shop had them go over them said they was good and I believe they skimmed them a little it’s been a awhile so I got them back got a whole new gasket kit redid all the gaskets all back together and kept flushing The radiator. Drove it like a month the problem still exist. Broke down and finally pressurized the coolant system didn’t have much of a leak that I noticed so I went over pressure a caused some problems to my radiator. Live an learn. Got a leak down tester on cylinder 7 pushing water back through radiator:,(. What do you guys think? Cativaion? Head gasket? Anyways to tell with the tester which one it could be before tearing it back down truck has 254xxxx
 

Joshsarah14

Registered User
Joined
Apr 11, 2024
Posts
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Va
Yes that is correct and what was done on cylinder 7. that was the result, it is Pushing water back up through radiator
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
15,022
Reaction score
14,119
Location
edmond, ks
Yes that is correct and what was done on cylinder 7. that was the result, it is Pushing water back up through radiator
I believe that you read his post wrong. If you put pressure into the cooling system, it won't push water back up through the radiator. You do that by using a cooling system pressure tester which attaches in place of the radiator cap.
Oil in the coolant probably isn't cavitation. Coolant surrounds the cylinders and can leak down past the rings into the oil. Oil doesn't normally have a way into the cooling system through the cylinders.
 

Joshsarah14

Registered User
Joined
Apr 11, 2024
Posts
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Va
I believe that you read his post wrong. If you put pressure into the cooling system, it won't push water back up through the radiator. You do that by using a cooling system pressure tester which attaches in place of the radiator cap.
Oil in the coolant probably isn't cavitation. Coolant surrounds the cylinders and can leak down past the rings into the oil. Oil doesn't normally have a way into the cooling system through the cylinders.
I tried a coolant system, pressure tester, and it was holding pressure for a little till I broke radiator further on, Still chasing the problem. So went and did a cylinder leak down test and on cylinder 7 when we were pressure testing leak down on it, it is pushing water back up through the radiator. From cylinder 7
 
Last edited:

Black dawg

Registered User
Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Posts
4,471
Reaction score
1,047
Location
sw mt
Based on the couple that I have seen with cavitaion, the holes were below where the rings would sit with the piston all the way up.
 

Joshsarah14

Registered User
Joined
Apr 11, 2024
Posts
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Va
Based on the couple that I have seen with cavitaion, the holes were below where the rings would sit with the piston all the way up.
Thanks for the feedback any an all advice is welcome . I’m learning A figuring it out best I can . U think it would worth another shot to fix my radiator first a retry the coolant pressure test ? Or should just leave it be with the leak down test? I think either way I would get the same results I’m assuming? Lmk what i should do or try before I take it all the way out. I have another idi on an engine stand . I was told it was good when I bought it an I had it running one time just for a min . I will probably do a leak down test on it before I take the effort to put it in. Never know anymore people are shady
 

Black dawg

Registered User
Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Posts
4,471
Reaction score
1,047
Location
sw mt
If it is still pushing air into the radiator with the piston at tdc....could add dye to the coolant, pressurize it until you are confident it has leaked into that cylinder, and then pull that head? Have never used dye with coolant, so I dont know how much it would help?
 

FrozenMerc

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2018
Posts
456
Reaction score
788
Location
SW Missouri
A Leak Down Test that results in pressurizing the cooling system could also indicate a cracked cylinder head (exhaust valve seat area is the most common location), or a bad head gasket, in addition to a possible crack or cavitation damage in the cylinder liner. Sounds like a teardown may be in order.

Edit: Apparently if you put a hyphen after "Leak" it results in a funny little Gif. Leak-Down Test
 

Joshsarah14

Registered User
Joined
Apr 11, 2024
Posts
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Va
A Leak Down Test that results in pressurizing the cooling system could also indicate a cracked cylinder head (exhaust valve seat area is the most common location), or a bad head gasket, in addition to a possible crack or cavitation damage in the cylinder liner. Sounds like a teardown may be in order.

Edit: Apparently if you put a hyphen after "Leak" it results in a funny little Gif. Leak-Down
Either way not good. . Put new head gaskets an other gaskets on when I previously was into it. Had the heads checked over an all was fine an I did not see anything visible at the time in the cylinders. Either somthing did not go my way in the head gasket install or I am having a big issue with that cylinder wall to start with. I’ve learned how hard it is really to find exactly what it is. With a motor with that many miles I almost can’t believe I would be having a cylinder wall issue. But that’s my luck
 

BeastMaster

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2017
Posts
436
Reaction score
391
Location
Orange, California
To clear "Cavitation" as suspect:

There is a pH indicator ( Bromothymol Blue ) that turns blue in a slightly alkali state. Blowing CO2 through it will make it acidic ( carbonic acid ... Aka "carbonated water", same stuff that makes soda pop fizzy ).

Temporarily replace your radiator cap with a stopper and some aquarium "airline tubing" or similar, so that any exhaust gas will be routed via the tubing into a bubbler ( soda pop bottle filled with the indicator solution ). It turns a yellow ***-color when CO2 is bubbled through. You can test it by just blowing through the bubbler yourself. You have enough CO2 in your breath to detect. To reset the indicator back to blue, drop in a little extremely diluted lye ( sodium hydroxide-NaOH-Drain Cleaner Lye ) - dissolve a pinch of lye powder in a little bottle of water, drop some in, and shake. You want it right at the edge so it's most sensitive to even a little CO2. The chemists call this a "titration". I think you can buy the blue indicator fluid already prepared for detection of exhaust gas in the coolant at Harbor Freight.

If you buy Bromothymol Blue as a small vial of powder, you will have enough to make gallons of indicator solution. If interested, ask "duck.ai"

( Below is Chat GPT-5 )

Bromothymol Blue pH indicator

GPT-5 mini
Bromothymol blue — quick reference
Chemical type: Sulfonphthalein pH indicator
Formula: C27H28Br2O5S
Appearance: Greenish-blue crystalline powder (solution is blue to yellow depending on pH)
pKa (approx.): 7.1
Color change range: pH 6.0 (yellow) → pH 7.6 (blue); green near neutral (~7.0)
Common solvent: Ethanol or water (often prepared as 0.04% w/v in ethanol then diluted)
Typical lab prep (indicator solution): Dissolve 0.04 g bromothymol blue in 100 mL ethanol, then dilute to 1 L with distilled water (gives ~0.04% stock); final working concentration usually a few drops per 10–100 mL sample.
Uses: Titrations around neutral pH, monitoring CO2 in water (carbonation/respiration), classroom acid–base demonstrations, biological assays (pH ~6–8).
Safety: Harmful if swallowed; avoid inhalation and skin/eye contact. Refer to MSDS for handling, storage, and disposal.
Storage: Store in a cool, dark place in a tightly closed container; protect from light.
If you want: exact preparation volumes for a specific final concentration, an MSDS link, or a procedure for using it in a titration or CO2 test, tell me which and I’ll provide it.
 
Last edited:

ROCK HARVEY

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2021
Posts
664
Reaction score
682
Location
Dayton OH
A couple possibilities that I thought of:

- Your oil cooler tubes might have a hole in them, causing them to mix oil and water even though you replaced the O-rings. You can pressure test the oil cooler itself to check this.

- The water pump has a couple bolts that you have to seal with RTV to prevent oil and water mixing. I wonder if one of those has started leaking.

I’m sure there are other possibilities, but those two came to my mind. Good luck and keep us posted!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
92,969
Posts
1,155,613
Members
26,524
Latest member
Alex Tolmachoff
Top