Carrier/facet pump observations

Thewespaul

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That’s one thing admittedly I’m missing in the shop truck’s setup since I’ve deleted the stock filter and have everything on the frame. I’ve just cracked open the feed line on the pump in the past to let the air out and it’s been fine though. A proper bleed point would be much cleaner.
 

Garbage_Mechan

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The problem only occurred if it ran out of fuel or the primary pre pump filter was changed. It seemed like the pump could not generate enough pressure to open the regulator due to the air trapped in the pump, and the only way out for the air was through the regulator. So it dawned on me that there needs to be a small orfice port back to tank or perhaps a needle valve so the air can escape. Got all that stuff in a box somewhere.....
 

Thewespaul

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Gotcha. Yeah I’ve got my pump and filters on the frame so all that fills really quick, i ran out of fuel once just because my relay died for my fuel pump. I had the air lock issue where it didn’t want to prime so just cracking a line to release the air was enough, I’ve got a big fuel cooler and -6 lines so it traps a lot of air. A proper bleeder would be the right way to go instead of spraying fuel out a cracked line
 

Garbage_Mechan

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Further evidence that an open unrestricted but orficed air bleed port is important. In an effort to improve fuel pressure on the 91 with the Facet, I installed an adjustable spring loaded ball poppet valve (mini regulator?) in place of the factory orfice air bleed. (Return to tank) Pressure picked up slightly because return flow was now pressure regulated. HOWEVER it is now very sensitive to air. Won’t self bleed anymore. If there is a positive to the Facet it is the self bleeding ability.
 

ifrythings

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I’m going to try a 6.4L powerstroke low pressure fuel system, it’s regulated to 3-5psi, good for 350-400hp, I got it for nothing but the cost of new filters. I have to run new lines as it’s 1/2” send and 3/8” return and I do plan on putting in the 38gal side tank which uses those sizes and ditching the rear tank.

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YJMike92

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I’m going to try a 6.4L powerstroke low pressure fuel system, it’s regulated to 3-5psi, good for 350-400hp, I got it for nothing but the cost of new filters. I have to run new lines as it’s 1/2” send and 3/8” return and I do plan on putting in the 38gal side tank which uses those sizes and ditching the rear tank.

Keep us posted. It's hard to go wrong with the factory stuff.
 

snicklas

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@ifrythings

How are you regulating it? That’s the same setup as what is on a 6.0 and they run 60+ PSI........

That is the HFCM (Horizontal Fuel Conditioning Module), which is the lift pump, primary 10 micron fuel filter, water separator, water in fuel light and where the fuel returns. The smaller is the secondary 4 micron filter that mounts on the engine in a 6.0.
 

Thewespaul

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Yeah I thought they ran higher pressure than 5 psi too, but I avoid anything 6.4 like the plague so I don’t know a ton about them.
 

Booyah45828

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Any of you guys ever take one of these facet pumps apart? I'm just wondering if there is some sort of internal pressure relief that maybe you could tweak so that max psi is lower.
 

Garbage_Mechan

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I don’t know but I could see the 6.4 unit at a low pressure since it is a lift pump to the HPCR pump. The 6.0 pump supplies fuel to the gallery feeding the HEUI injectors which takes 50-60 lbs IIRC the common rail Cummins I have encountered had a low psi lift pump.
 

ifrythings

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I must admit I was a bit hesitant on suggesting the ford 6.4 parts but no one is bashing the idea, not the cheapest thing to buy new but they are everywhere as I found around my area only one places sold faucet pumps and they wanted a lot for it.

The 6.0 and 6.4 do both use a hfcm but they use different fuel pumps in them. The 6.0 will have a black cap fuel pump which has a relief pressure around 100 psi or so and the 6.4 has a brown cap fuel pump with a relief around 24psi.

The engine mounted fuel filter has the 3-5psi regulator built into it along with the air bleed, fuel temp sensor, send and return lines and the 4micron filter.

The only thing really holding me back is how to mount the engine filter so it doesn’t look like I scabbed it on.

Here’s a 6.0l hfcm
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Notice the cap on the right is black, has 3/8” and 5/16” fuel lines and a hex plug water drain.

6.4l hfcm
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Has a brown cap on the right side, 1/2” and 3/8” fuel lines, lever action water drain .
Here is the 6.4 fuel system diagram
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I think this will work, I know you can heat up the aluminum and pull out the metal fuel lines then tap it to an AN fitting if desired. For now I think I’ll just try it with rubbed hose and see what happens.
 

tbrumm

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I installed the regulator over the weekend. I also received my electric fuel pressure gauge back from Autometer with a note stating the gauge has passed all tests and is working properly -Huh! I think the Holley regulator is set at 7psi at the factory, and with the Facet pump running through the regulator, the Autometer gauge reads 3psi. Another point of interest since installing the regulator is the extreme amount of air entering the Facet filter bowl. With the regulator at the factory pressure setting right out of the box, the Facet filter bowl will only fill about 1/2 full of fuel and the rest is air bubbles. If I adjust the regulator and relax the pressure setting, the filter bowl will fill up and there will be less air present. Just by turning the regulator pressure screw I can move the fuel level up and down in the filter bowl - didn't expect that! The funny thing is, with the regulator cutting pressure down, and with the filter bowl about 1/2 full of air, the truck runs just fine. What am I missing here? Is the return fuel coming from the regulator and tee'd into the pump feed line causing that much turbulence in the incoming fuel? The truck runs fine, and has plenty of power, but I honestly feel like my little "experiment" with the 40290 pump has not accomplished anything except to add more parts and complexity to what was simple fuel system.

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Thewespaul

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How much driving have you done with the regulator installed? Just to be sure, the bottom port opposite the adjustment screw is the feed, and the side ports are outlets. 3 psi is pretty low, if you have your regulator pre filter there will be a pressure drop across the filter, so you want the regulator right after the filter so it can compensate it’s bypass amount to the restriction of the filter and keep pressure consistent. You want pressure to be 5-6 psi. If after a lot of driving you’re still seeing air, then something isn’t air tight on the suction side, you could tee the return from the regulator into the return from injectors, but the air has to be coming from somewhere.
 
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