Antarctic IDI Build

[theSHERPA]

Actually the rims are HMMV, that have new pressed centers welded in to correct the factory 7” backspacing to a more useful 3.5” backspace.


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[Thewespaul]

Last time I drove the truck, I noticed it lost about 5 psi. So had a little time last night to track down the leak, crossover pipes were both leaking at the donut connections, which is really the down fall of these turbo kit designs.

Pulled the crossover off and you can see where they are leaking
Drivers side:

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Passenger side:

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I polished up the manifold/upipe side of the connections with a wire wheel then gave the same treatment to the crossover side.

You can see this side (drivers side) is much thinner material than the other side, looks like someone welded the stock exhaust connection onto the crossover, probably a rust repair or trying to fix exhaust leaks.

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Took a small ball peen hammer and bent the sealing surface further in, this helps the connections seal because the lip will flatten out as it tightens to the studs.

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You can see the passenger side is in much better shape.

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Bolted the crossover back in with new nuts and washers but ran out of time to test it. Banks gauge finally came in so I’ll be installing that today and be finally be done with the gauges.

Left turn signal isn’t working even after the column replacement, right one works and hazards work. I can hear the flasher clicking but no indicator on the dash or flashing externally. Gonna pull schematics and start tracing power

 

[no mufflers]

that is the pipe from my kit correct? i also had leaks in those spots. i use hi temp silicone and that solves the problem.

what had happened is those are two separate pipes from banks with a clamp in the middle, it was a given leak so i welded it together.

then after a while i noticed the flange had developed a crack and made it leak, so i welded that up and installed a flex pipe to eliminate the cracking. well the flex pipe ended up cracking and at that point i just put a piece a pipe back in its spot.

 

[Thewespaul]

That’s correct, I’ll try the high temp silicone if this doesn’t fix it. Thanks @no mufflers! Did you have any issues with the intake plenum lining up with the turbo outlet? I ended up using a different silicone boot there.

 

[no mufflers]

it wasn't perfect but did line up, seal and fit together.

not saying anything bad or what not but i guess it wouldn't really surprise me if there was a fitment problem in that area.

 

[Thewespaul]

Not your fault at all, fitment has been an on going issue since it’s pretty crowded under the hood, but intake side sealed up with the larger boot and clocking the compressor housing a bit.

 

[nostrokes]

That’s correct, I’ll try the high temp silicone if this doesn’t fix it. Thanks @no mufflers! Did you have any issues with the intake plenum lining up with the turbo outlet? I ended up using a different silicone boot there.

Might try a doughnut there if you can find one that will fit and the silicone doesnt work.
My top hat and turbo outlet don't line up very good either but a little wiggling with the boot and I can get it to seal. Think there's just not enough room with the firewall right on top of the turbo to get it perfectly lined up. Ordering a new boot from jegs that is a little longer to give me more wiggle room.

 

[Thewespaul]

Thanks for the suggestions guys! Finished up the gauges, soldered in the new gauge and verified it’s working. Finally everything matches!

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Got the interior dome light installed with an led bulb, need to dig up the lens.

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Crossover pipe leaks still but not as badly as before, pulled it out and used some high temp rtv as adviced, hopefully that buttons it up.

Pulled the non working horns and going to replace with an air horn kit I used to have on my truck.

Started tracing issues with the backup beeper and turn signals and the issue seems to be the wiring at the rear of the truck near the bumper where it splits. Gonna buy some material and just rewire it there and make it water tight, trailer plug needs to get wired in anyways.

Sorry for the lack of pictures guys, my phone has been on music duty and I always forget to take pictures as I go

 

[snicklas]

Wes,

Looking at the picture of the manifold, do the studs have the hex in them, or are they full threaded studs. If it has the hex in it, you may have to replace them with hex-less studs. The hex has caused many a leak in the past.

 

[no mufflers]

^^^ that is one thing to look for.

this is what i use.

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[Thewespaul]

Thanks Scott, I’ll double check that, I believe the passenger side has been replaced on the upipe, but not on the drivers side stock manifold. I drove it this morning and im seeing 10 psi, so still leaking a bit but much better.

@no mufflers I’ll pick some of that up, I used the red high temp stuff, but I bet that copper would hold up better to the heat.

Thanks guys!

 

[no mufflers]

i thought it had a higher heat rating but i use it often on exhaust parts with good luck.

i think as long as you don't join the cummins crowd and run it up to 1,400* then it should last.

 

[Thewespaul]

Interior pieces reinstalled and cleaned up. Got the hood release back on its mount along with the harnesses.

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Pulled the cluster to fix the broken gear indicator. I’ve got a new one on the way, but’s it’s been delayed along with some other parts because of the Austin bombings, hopefully arriving tomorrow.

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Here’s the leds that I used for dash lighting

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[Thewespaul]

Cluster out.

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Cleaned up behind the cluster and blew all the dust out of the ac vents

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Cleaned up the cluster face, bezels and polished up the clear plastic cover.

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Replaced the first coolant filter, hasn’t been in there long but I started to notice a temp difference in the heater hoses awhile go so it was time, doesn’t look too bad but it’s definitely doing it’s job.

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[Thewespaul]

Matt the owner of this beast stopped by and por15'd the area around the rear tank that I dropped to service. He brought some more parts by such as the shocks that I installed today

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Got my old air horn kit strapped in and wired up so the truck has a good working horn

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Started tracing issues with the interior lights, only remaining issue is the dome light that is staying on all the time. Replaced both door switches that looked like this.

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