Alrighty boys - can't shift into gear

[warhog]

No bushing, didn't have one when i took it apart, and i didn't bother installing the pin since I was just checking function. The rod is however, connected to the pedal. When pushing the pedal, the slave doesn't do anything visually.

edit: if it matters, and makes any sense to you guys who know about the pedal set up..the truck don't start either.

 

[79jasper]

I had the end of a slave blow out. The trans was pulled and I must've accidentally pushed in the clutch, and I guess if they don't have anything to keep it from extending too far, it'll pop the end off. Any chance the master was pressed in while the slave was dangling?

On edit: Did you leave any switches off near the clutch pedal?

 

[warhog]

not likely, i hadn't removed any in the first place. I may have bumped something stuffing my hands in there i suppose. Everything turns on and gp works, just no starter. I'll worry about that some other time should be easier for me to figure out.. I'm more curious on this clutch.

I actually never disconnected the slave. Not sure if I got the terms confused or what not but here's all i did: popped pin out of the master pushrod and slid pushrod off pedal, unbolted two bolts holding the master to the firewall, hung it up out of the way. fiddled around making brackets yada yada...bolted them to the firewall, bolted master to firewall, slid the pushrod back onto pedal and tried it.

it just sucks right to the floor, no pressure what so ever. The slave is and has been connected, pushing on the external clutch release lever feels normal, plenty of resistence there. But pushing the clutch pedal by hand back and fourth doesn't do anything to budge the slave.

I guess i'll take it back out tomorow and have a looksie. Maybe I nicked the boot where the pushrod goes in the master and just didn't notice. Would that cause this?

 

[Hardass559]

befor takeing it apapart push the slave in buy hand that will move the piston in the master cyilender with may have let air out wile it was is a strange position witch now is posibully vacume locked so you cant get peddel back. just gotta move fluid from the slave up i had a peddel ishue with a t19 doing basicly as you discribed befor at half peddel but that was a busted bell houseing flexing instead of pushing the release lever

 

[79jasper]

Well maybe by weird chance, the master went out.

 

[riotwarrior]

No bushing, didn't have one when i took it apart, and i didn't bother installing the pin since I was just checking function. The rod is however, connected to the pedal. When pushing the pedal, the slave doesn't do anything visually.

edit: if it matters, and makes any sense to you guys who know about the pedal set up..the truck don't start either.

Ok you need to clarify some things...

1st Did you reinforce firewall in the ENGINE compartment or in the CABIN?

2nd Does your clutch MC have a large black thing on the pushrod about 2" long and 1.25" diameter that a wire plugs into?

3rd If it's got that plug as in above question and your not using a bushing you may not be depressing the clutch enough to get the contacts to function and allow the clutch safety switch to function.

Sounds like you did not plug that connection in, or it's not contacting correctly if you did or if it wasnt plugged in and it's there the jumper wire got bumped...and it's not jumping accordingly!

Get in touch with Mel (Agnem) here or at Conestoga Diesel for a plate for your firewall as he has them!

It is quite important to have that bushing in to function correctly and minimize wear or you can do the heim joint mod as in the tech section.

 

[riotwarrior]

I actually never disconnected the slave. Not sure if I got the terms confused or what not but here's all i did: popped pin out of the master pushrod and slid pushrod off pedal, unbolted two bolts holding the master to the firewall, hung it up out of the way. fiddled around making brackets yada yada...bolted them to the firewall, bolted master to firewall, slid the pushrod back onto pedal and tried it.

If those brackets are in engine compartment you may have moved the clutch MC out of sync of the clutch/neautral saftey switch on it and it may not be able to fully depress like it should when against fire wall bare!

PICS PICS PICS

 

[warhog]

Ok you need to clarify some things...

1st Did you reinforce firewall in the ENGINE compartment or in the CABIN?

both. It was just a big hole left. had to fill the hole. The engine side already had a strange cheesy plate which is in the trash now.

2nd Does your clutch MC have a large black thing on the pushrod about 2" long and 1.25" diameter that a wire plugs into?
no. push rod is just the rod. There are no plugs or strange things on it.

3rd If it's got that plug as in above question and your not using a bushing you may not be depressing the clutch enough to get the contacts to function and allow the clutch safety switch to function.

Sounds like you did not plug that connection in, or it's not contacting correctly if you did or if it wasnt plugged in and it's there the jumper wire got bumped...and it's not jumping accordingly!

Get in touch with Mel (Agnem) here or at Conestoga Diesel for a plate for your firewall as he has them!

It is quite important to have that bushing in to function correctly and minimize wear or you can do the heim joint mod as in the tech section.

It's a brand new shop installed MC, wouldn't it come with a bushing if it wanted it?? Besides, with or without the bushing, there still won't be any pressure so there's a bigger issue at hand somewhere.

edit: riot - there is no nss on the MC i have. Must be elsewhere in my truck? And why would i have one anyways? Visually wanted it, the pushrod goes into the MC fine when the pedal is depressed, just seems like the MC might as well be empty..theres no pressure. slave has pressure.

 

[79jasper]

Have you done the simple things? Like just making sure there's fluid in it?

 

[warhog]

Have you done the simple things? Like just making sure there's fluid in it?

haha yes sir. It's full. I did notice something... when looking at these pictures: http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/...h MC Firewall re-inforcement Kit/PA170157.jpg

The MC is mounted crooked. Or atleast, the bolts are not even with eachother. MY MC they are. And it was previously mounted completely straight up and down. So, that's how I installed it now.

 

[79jasper]

The 92? And newer are a little different. When I took the master cylinder from my 88 and put it in my 94, it cocked it over towards the engine.
Back when I was younger probably about 12 or so, we had a Chevy that did like yours. Clutch pedal went down and wouldn't come back up, changed the master and it fixed it.
And you said it goes in effortlessly by hand, so my money is on a new master.

 

[warhog]

Oh okay. Welp, i'll give mel a call tomorrow if i don't hear back from a PM and see when he can get me a plate by, and i'll order me up a new master from somewhere and see what happens. Crossing my fingers!

 

[riotwarrior]

87-91 and 92 up had a slight angle to mounts...86 prior are truly inline vertically mounted... studs

In my Bronco prior to me installing the kit, there was an 86 MC which pressed against the brake booster and was a ***** to remove the cap to fill/check, I purchased it like that...it was an auto with hack manual conversion.

No your truck didnt have the clutch interlock/nss switch setup, that came in brick nose IIRC...

There should be a bushing unless someone has hacked it together....

Sounds like MC may have a default in it our got tipped and thus you have air in the system some how...there should be a small bleed allen head bolt on slave to bleed it...

Try pressing the slave in as far as you can SLOWLY hold....tap plastic line a bunch and slowly let slave out....wait...repeat making sure MC is no less than 1/2 full this may force air UP into MC slowly as air rises....keep doing this slowly all while tapping that plastic line...say....10 times, then retry the clutch pedal...

 

[warhog]

^^^ leave cap on the master and res or remove caps? If tipping it can cause air in it, than yeah it may have been tipped.

 

[riotwarrior]

^^^ leave cap on the master and res or remove caps? If tipping it can cause air in it, than yeah it may have been tipped.

half full cap on loose....place rags underneath in case of overflow...

the master being 1/2 full in this manner of bleeding from below and UP makes it so no air can be drawn back INTO the system...remember rattle that plastic line whilst holding the slave in all the way....makes bubbles jiggle move up!to MC....and SLOWLY let slave back out....and slowly press in whilst jiggling line ....