Alrighty boys - can't shift into gear

firehawk

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This went from an obvious clutch master/slave issue to scrapping the vehicle. If you couldn't figure out the clutch issue, then old vehicles are not for you.

Heck, just getting into a new to you old vehicle can be expensive. For me, my old cars all have lifetime warranties for most parts, so its mostly free. I have no reason or desire to buy a new vehicle.
 

madpogue

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I used the master from my 88 in my 94 and it cocked it counter clockwise looking from the front. So I'm sure it'd be easy to fix. I had to knock the studs out of the firewall and drill out the holes to make it fit. It had to be a quick fix but I'll end up using my old master which is still good. At the time I couldn't deal with the time it'd take to bleed it.
I was thinking if you're going the other way, a '92-up master (or full kit) into a '91-down truck, and if the cylinder rotates within the firewall flange, you could turn it so it's straight up and down. :dunno
Are new master/slave assemblies not available for your year?
Not that I can find. Go on RockAuto, dial up say a '95, and you see several masters, several slaves and several full kits. Pull up '85 and all you see are masters and slaves. I would think if anyone had a full kit for the earlier years, they would. Nothing at LMC or the Graveyard either; haven't checked NPD.
 

warhog

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This went from an obvious clutch master/slave issue to scrapping the vehicle. If you couldn't figure out the clutch issue, then old vehicles are not for you.

Heck, just getting into a new to you old vehicle can be expensive. For me, my old cars all have lifetime warranties for most parts, so its mostly free. I have no reason or desire to buy a new vehicle.


Some of the guys here have been following along since I got the truck just a few months ago. The clutch issue is hardly some major issue that I can't handle. It, along with the sudden down pour of fuel all over the place, is just a number of things that have been signs that a line has to be drawn somewhere. You see I didn't mind at first, but go read back, luck was always against me with this truck. I have 13k+ into it now, add on the fact i've been in a rental for over a month of the three or four? months i've owned the truck. That's why people were ragging on me in the other thread about driving it with bad steering...I didn't know because i never actually get to drive it under it's own power. I can't name two consequitive weeks that i've had it in my possesion. I went this route thinking it would be better than a payment..But this truck itself was a bad egg. Not the generation of them. If I knew than what I know now, i'd rather have dumped 15k as a down payment on something. It would have been a heck of a lot cheaper and worth while than stripping the truck to the frame and replacing every part. I really think that's what it would take to get this thing reliable. If I ever need to go out of town, I get a rental anyways, I just can't trust this truck that it will get me there and back
 

riotwarrior

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Some of the guys here have been following along since I got the truck just a few months ago. The clutch issue is hardly some major issue that I can't handle. It, along with the sudden down pour of fuel all over the place, is just a number of things that have been signs that a line has to be drawn somewhere. You see I didn't mind at first, but go read back, luck was always against me with this truck. I have 13k+ into it now, add on the fact i've been in a rental for over a month of the three or four? months i've owned the truck. That's why people were ragging on me in the other thread about driving it with bad steering...I didn't know because i never actually get to drive it under it's own power. I can't name two consequitive weeks that i've had it in my possesion. I went this route thinking it would be better than a payment..But this truck itself was a bad egg. Not the generation of them. If I knew than what I know now, i'd rather have dumped 15k as a down payment on something. It would have been a heck of a lot cheaper and worth while than stripping the truck to the frame and replacing every part. I really think that's what it would take to get this thing reliable. If I ever need to go out of town, I get a rental anyways, I just can't trust this truck that it will get me there and back

It saddens me to hear things like this...

I guess I was very lucky payingg 1k getting into this truck...I knew the clutch pin issue....knew 3rd was shot...had to replace lift pump, water pump, and rad...

there was some front axle issues I fixed but again...going in knowing what could be...allows me peace of mind...

now must replace transmission 3 rd completely done...would i take this truck on long journey...HELL YA as it sits i would...but thats me...

sounds like your almost done...and uour truck is new...may as well stick with it....

IN FOR A PENNY IN FOR A POUND!!!!

JM2CW

Al
 

Agnem

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It's been our experience that a $1200 truck will take about $4K to make reliable again, assuming it doesn't need engine work. In your case, it sounds like the Jasper remain got you into the $9K catagory pretty quick. Me, I don't mind spending $15K on an older truck. It will take far less to maintain it going forward, and is still cheaper than $60K for a new one that looks like this under the hood....
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That's a 2014 Powerstork right there... mmm...mmmm...mmmm.
 

warhog

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I guess so. I knew it would not be a turnkey truck when I got it. So i didn't mind paying for the jasper, i wanted to be ahead of the game and replace the biggest part of it with something that was supposed to be reliable. As most of you seen, my luck was against me and it's been pretty discouraging. Now with probably needing new fuel lines, it's just nearing the edge of when is enough enough? I suppose it may be wise to pick up some beater car to keep around. But i think if I did that, i would just tear this truck down and start over with it instead of waiting for something to break once a week.
 

riotwarrior

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I guess so. I knew it would not be a turnkey truck when I got it. So i didn't mind paying for the jasper, i wanted to be ahead of the game and replace the biggest part of it with something that was supposed to be reliable. As most of you seen, my luck was against me and it's been pretty discouraging. Now with probably needing new fuel lines, it's just nearing the edge of when is enough enough? I suppose it may be wise to pick up some beater car to keep around. But i think if I did that, i would just tear this truck down and start over with it instead of waiting for something to break once a week.

This is a case that takes on a whole new plan when you start by installing a reman engine and build of truck. Knowing that the engine was the most expensive to repair and investing in it is a wise choice as it should provide years of reliable service with routine maintenance done. This type of an approach is indicative of a choice to keep this rig for some time. I applaud your plans!

The fuel lines if giving greif are likely going to lead to similar evidence with brake lines....If one set is rotton/rusted it's likely the other ones are too.

If there is anything to do it's STICK TO IT....just get under that truck....inspect every nook and cranny, make notes as you go along and from those notes, build your plan for this truck.

15K is still less than 45+K for a different newer truck.

Take a moment, think about what you want from this truck...be objective, use, long term goals etc...your already in it..may as well be in it to win it.....and plan and go on with that plan!
 

warhog

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As disappointed as I am with it right now, I suppose I will keep positive and see what comes of it. I'm ordering the terrapin plate from mel tomorrow and will give it a go.

Now, what were y'all saying about the newer master cylinders? The terrapin plates are going to have the bolt holes on an angle..i imagine tipping my style on an angle isn't going to work out.

edit: and as someone mentioned in my other thread, i think the jasper engine is toast and they're sending the truckback for some tests anyways, so it just needs to be reliable enough to make it to the shop LOL That will buy me some time to craigslist a parts truck and start a savings account for whatever else is bound to go soon.

I have a steering stabilizer sitting in the box since I got it since i can't for the life of me figure out how the frame bracket is supposed to mount :rolleyes:
 

riotwarrior

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As disappointed as I am with it right now, I suppose I will keep positive and see what comes of it. I'm ordering the terrapin plate from mel tomorrow and will give it a go.

Now, what were y'all saying about the newer master cylinders? The terrapin plates are going to have the bolt holes on an angle..i imagine tipping my style on an angle isn't going to work out.

Just relax ...We got an app for that....

Just look here and you will see that this plate can and DOES accomidate both MC's just fine.

Slotted lower hole on left and then the two top holes make so you can install it with either MC in 86 and older or 87 and newer trucks....

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Here you can see my setup in my 90 Bronco...and there is clearly an ability to do the vertical of the other setup of 86 and older trucks.

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Any questions I can assist with feel free to ask. I've done this install and know it intimately...others here have as well and know it well.

There is a TSB available on Jason's website that you should download and take a look at and IIRC I linked it in my how too thread in the tech section.

Keep a stiff upper lip n nose to the grind stone..you'll prevail!

Al
 

warhog

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Thanks for that. I'm going to be ordering a new MC anyways to be on the safe side, I noticed the boot is torn and a little seepage so no sense in taking chances. Just wanted to see which I should be ordering. Now, some of us (eh hem) were lucky enough to have everything already bare under the dash...Having done the install, would you reccomend I take all the pedals out or am i going to screw something up and be better off just banging my knuckles around in there?

I'm going to have to shop for something fun to make me appreciate this thing again. Maybe some new wheels or an air freshner or something lol. I think i would be better off swapping the odometer for an hour meter...it's spent more time stuck in one spot than he has actually driving around.
 

riotwarrior

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Thanks for that. I'm going to be ordering a new MC anyways to be on the safe side, I noticed the boot is torn and a little seepage so no sense in taking chances. Just wanted to see which I should be ordering. Now, some of us (eh hem) were lucky enough to have everything already bare under the dash...Having done the install, would you reccomend I take all the pedals out or am i going to screw something up and be better off just banging my knuckles around in there?

I'm going to have to shop for something fun to make me appreciate this thing again. Maybe some new wheels or an air freshner or something lol. I think i would be better off swapping the odometer for an hour meter...it's spent more time stuck in one spot than he has actually driving around.
I recomend u thoroughly read my how too..before asking me questions on what I recomend cause the answer is in the how to I linked originally for you! read it n re read it......


Then ask questions

I can tell you didnt...u may have looked at pics but not read it.....lol

just sayin....

Al
 

warhog

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I recomend u thoroughly read my how too..before asking me questions on what I recomend cause the answer is in the how to I linked originally for you! read it n re read it......


Then ask questions

I can tell you didnt...u may have looked at pics but not read it.....lol

just sayin....

Al



I read it a few months ago! Doesn't that count ;)
 

junk

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Sorry this truck keeps kicking ya in the stiglets. If you end up needing fuel lines you can possibly get bent ones from Inline tube or classic tube. Also straight up rubber lines and steel lines you bend yourself would be fine also.

My clutch master cylinder on my 93 actually swivels. I'm assuming it's an aftermarket one to allow mounting to any of the 83-97 ford trucks.

It is pretty cruddy the shop put the new master in with the firewall clearly broken. Professionals.....

When you built your bracket to mount the master to did you by chance space the master off the firewall too far into the engine compartment so now the clutch pedal doesn't push the rod into the master far enough to actuate the clutch?

Good Luck!
 

madpogue

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When you built your bracket to mount the master to did you by chance space the master off the firewall too far into the engine compartment so now the clutch pedal doesn't push the rod into the master far enough to actuate the clutch?
Adjustable pushrod would fix that real quick.
 

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