Another e4od wont shift to 3rd

zep40boy

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I'm sorry for the extreme length of this but, as you can see ive tried everything and i'm really at a loss. I don't want to bring it to a shop but I may have to...

96 f350, 2wd E4OD
Started out, my forward planetary crapped out..not sure why, but it did.

I rebuilt it myself with new torque converter, remand pump, remand solenoid body, and the tugger HD kit. Also has the deeper 4wd pan and filter.

Installed everything, drove it and no 3rd gear. Just got to about 2200 rpm and it wasn't happy. No 3rd, no 4th.

Dropped the pan, swapped out the solenoid pack for the old one, also checked for stuck shift valve... they ALL sprung back correctly.

Everything back together, no change.

Pulled the pan, ran an air test (admittedly i did not do this at all during rebuild) but it was hard to get into the direct clutch port, i got it as best I could and thought I heard a good thud but couldn't be 100%. Got good Thuds on everything else. Also checked again for stuck valves.
At this time i also checked continuity on all the wires on the tail housing harness, checked resistance on the shift indicator, pulled the VSS sensor, checked tps voltage... everything checked out. I cleaned all the plugs including the vss sensor. My tach and speedo have always worked fine, no weird things.

None of that made a difference.

I finally said screw it, I thought maybe i rolled a seal or something in one of the clutches.. pulled the trans, pulled the clutch drums, they all passed the bench air test. I did have a little trouble with the direct clutch. It had an awesome thud when I tested it on the bench but when i.put it on the center support, it seemed to be leaking on the shaft where the metal sealing rings were. I applied some atf, and it sounded much better until the atf flowed away and I was back to an air leak. I chalked that up to passing, and proceeded to put everything back together.

threw it back in the truck and no change. Up to this point, i hadnt had a good way to check line pressure.. I had a gauge but not a long enough hose... finally cobbled one up and did some testing. I have 200psi stall pressure In D which I'm seeing is okay, I did not to a reverse stall test yet but idle pressure was 100psi. All other pressures were Okay at idle... drive was the only one I did a Stall test on.
also unplugged the solenoid pack and still no shift to 3rd. Im still a little hazy on what is supposed to occur in limp mode, but i didnt feel like much changed. Even though i was on jack stands, it still felt like it did the 1-2 and then no 3rd..so if someone wants to chime in on that?
At this time i started digging more into my OBD app to see if i could find anything to help. Through all of this ive never ever had a trans code or any other P code. Also passes both self tests.
I monitored the shift solenoids... the are turning on and off at every shift just like the should. The computer is commanding 3rd gear but nothing is happening.

that's where Im sitting right now. The only other test I can think to do is to test the inputs at the solenoid to make sure they are even getting the command signal from the pcm. Please, if I'm an idiot for not seeing something, tell me lol. I miss my truck and I don't always have alot of time to work on it. I hate bringing things to the shop especially when I can't afford it... I have more time for testing than I do money for a shop.

I have a couple videos of when I was doing the idle pressure checks if those would help. Also, I have no changed the external cooler yet. I keep forgetting to order one. I've blown through it more than once and everything seems to go okay?
 

trackspeeder

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The problem isn't electrical.

Either the direct clutch or the center support is the issue. Loose feed bolts, leaking center support seals, or the direct clutch is out of spec.
 

zep40boy

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The problem isn't electrical.

Either the direct clutch or the center support is the issue. Loose feed bolts, leaking center support seals, or the direct clutch is out of spec.
Out of spec as in the gap to the snap ring? Or just in general wore out of spec?

Also, just did a Stall test in reverse. Came out at 300 psi. Does that rule out a leak in the direct clutch?
 

XOLATEM

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how tight did you do the hollow bolt that links the center support to the case..?

I see that you did a reverse stall test...but...does it move in reverse and does the unit hold reverse without letting go..?

When you say that you had a bad planetary...what was wrong with the planetary...? did it burn up black or just have worn out pinion washers that ate through the carrier..?

On the cooler and lines...just blowing through them is probably not going to get all of the debris out of them...and you run the risk of contaminating the new unit and convertor... at least what should have been done is run a can of cooler clean through it back and forth...little late now...but...it would have been good to put an inline filter in the lines and left it in there for 50-100 miles to let the hot fluid try to move out most of the debris..

It is quite possible that you have some stuck valves in the valve body....if everything else checks out...if the computer is commanding 3rd...then it is up to the unit to respond...

Sorry to hear about your troubles...but we all have to learn by experience...I have been there, too...
 
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zep40boy

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how tight did you do the hollow bolt that links the center support to the case..?

I see that you did a reverse stall test...but...does it move in reverse and does the unit hold reverse without letting go..?

When you say that you had a bad planetary...what was wrong with the planetary...? did it burn up black or just have worn out pinion washers that ate through the carrier..?

On the cooler and lines...just blowing through them is probably not going to get all of the debris out of them...and you run the risk of contaminating the new unit and convertor... at least what should have been done is run a can of cooler clean through it back and forth...little late now...but...it would have been good to put an inline filter in the lines and left it in there for 50-100 miles to let the hot fluid try to move out most of the debris..

It is quite possible that you have some stuck valves in the valve body....if everything else checks out...if the computer is commanding 3rd...then it is up to the unit to respond...

Sorry to hear about your troubles...but we all have to learn by experience...I have been there, too...
Just some more info, when driving with a pressure gauge on, basically it stays at 100psi from first to second, a little bit after where I feel the 3rd gear should be, it jumps up to 160, slowly falls over a couple seconds to maybe 140, then spikes back to 160

I guess I should have said the forward planetary gears weren't what crapped out, attached is a picture of where it got eaten up.

I've got the main valve body pulled out now, I've pulled all the valves apart, looked at everything but nothing seems to stand out. Going to get a nylon brush tonight so I can really clean everything and make sure everything slides nice and free before I get it back together for one last shot this season. Winter is coming so I won't be using this truck anyway but it'd sure be nice to get it figured out before storage lol.

Also, reverse holds very strong. Never slips, never kicks out. Maybe a slight hesitation on engagement but I don't have anything to compare it to on speed
 

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Clb

Another old truck
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I didn't read the entire thread, so forgive me if I missed it...
What parts were not either, replaced, rebuilt, re adjusted, or cleaned and inspected?
I'd go there next.
 
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