Alrighty boys - can't shift into gear

warhog

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Brand new south bend clutch, and flywheel, new master (edit: SLAVE) cylinder. NO visual firewall movement. No problems starting engine.

It's been shifting fine no issues. Til this morning (first snow of the season..yay...) Going into first was a PAIN from a stop. Damn near felt like I was missing the spot all together. When moving at a steady speed, all gears are fine and shifts feel like they should. The drive home felt fine this afternoon. Then I went to run to the store a few minutes ago, couldn't get it to shift into any gear to turn around in my driveway. Engine off, it'll do whatever I want to. I finally did get it to go, and made it to the store and back fine. even was able to turn around and back in the driveway. so it's an intermittent issue i want to fix before it's a non stop issue.

Pedal is pretty much dead til about halfway, Coming back up it slowly raises to that point then "pops" up after that.

I can start the truck no brakes and it won't creep ahead on me, but maybe a 1/2" off the clutch and it will engage.

No signs of leaks except at the shifter...(that's another question, what tranny do I have if I have the 4spd, 2wd, so i can fix that damn leak).


1. Could it be air in the system somehow?

2. Did my clutch crap out already within two months??

3. Is the leak related to a worn out shifter something or nother an that causing it?

4. is there fluid i'm supposed to maintain/change/top off other than the master cyl?

4. bacon.
 
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warhog

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Ps. it's friggn cold out. And since i was stuck anyways, i let it warm up to the center of the temp gauge and then was able to (with a teenie persuassion) shift and then drive fine after that
 

riotwarrior

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You have a T19 transmission, if, it's a four speed.

Sounds like that the clutch is not fully bled or you have a worn pedal assembly and bushings or maybe the MC to clutch rod eye is worn or the pin...

These are similar symptoms and without more detailed information it's very hard to narrow it down.

I"d start under the dash...press the pedal by hand and where the MC comes into cab check out the pushrod and it's eye and the pin ad bushig on the arm. If all good, then it's on to bleed. I did have a friend whos clutch arm...the one the slave pushrod presses on that then goes into the bell housing had a crack and it did similar to what you describe until it completely broke.
 

Shadetreemechanic

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its in your clutch pedal mechanism somewhere. either bushings or low fluid/bad slave. My slave leaks and does as you describe about every other month. For me it means its time to add fluid.
 

warhog

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monteagle? i'm moving to pelham in two months :)

slave is 1200 miles old, clutch fluid is topped off.


now...could it make sense if the tranny itself is low on fluid or crappy fluid or gelling in the fluid it would do this? With the leak at the shiter (that i still haven't figured out how to fix yet) i'm sure it's gotta be low or old fluid. I don't the previous owner changed it. what does ford call for in there?
 

Hydro-idi

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Thicker gear oil can cause shifting issues when it is cold outside. However, once gearbox is warmed up a bit, oil thins out and all is well. You could try using a thinner gear oil if you decide that may be your problem.
 

warhog

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Thanks, i'm going to change it out tomorrow. How many quarts should I buy? and anyone have ideas on the leaky shifter?
 

Mulochico

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Might look into synthetic for the cold climate(?)

According to my Haynes manual the T19 4 speed trans takes 7 quarts of 80w gear oil.
 

Matrix37495

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Did you check to see if there was play at the clutch master pushrod?

This is what the pin looked like on mine before i replaced it...
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icanfixall

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Did you check to see if there was play at the clutch master pushrod?

This is what the pin looked like on mine before i replaced it...
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Yea... Thats got some wear to it... You likely caught it just in time...:eek::angel:
 

lindstromjd

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Your clutch is fine. You have one of two issues (I deal with both all the time in my trucks).

1. Your master cylinder / clutch pedal bushing is bad. It's a super weak point on all Ford trucks. It's a $3 part at a parts store in the "HELP" section
2. You have air in your system. Bleed it from the bottom up. Don't use a bleeder valve or take anything apart; just take the slave cylinder off the transmission and push it through FULL travel a bunch of times and re-install it.
 

madpogue

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Had the same "double-action" on my '85. Slithered up under the dash and found the plastic bushing was GONE, and a seriously ovalized (egg-shaped) eyelet on the pushrod. Fortunately the pushrod pulls out from the master, and you can get an adjustable pushrod for cheap at RockAuto. Installed it with a short piece of 1/2"ODx7/16"ID brass tubing for a bushing instead of the craptastic plastic one, clutch is working perfectly now.
 
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